Started new pool maintenance on my own- SWG fired up, questions on pool chemistry & Pool Math

pewl

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2018
88
Coastal SoCal
We just finished our first month start up service and are now on our own. The SWG is fired up and I've done some testing but have a few questions about Pool Math and chemistry.

For reference, my pool is new, plaster finish, about 1700 gallons, IC40 started up.
Using the TF-100 and K-1766 salt test:

pH 7.8 (maybe a tad higher but not to 8.2)
FC 6.5
CC .5
CH 250
TA 130
CYA 50 (this is a bit confusing- measured to where the black dot wasn't fairly obvious, but I could still kind of see it)
SALT 2800 from test kit, 2950 Screenlogic reading
am I doing ok?


On Pool Math, I am using the suggested goals set to TFP.com .
My IC40 says optimal level is 3400, but the pool guy started my pool with 200 pounds of salt and a week later it is at 2800, which he said was even a little high for my pool?? Pool math says to add 85 pounds but he told me to keep it low because the reading is always off, but I am doing the salt drop test and the two readings are fairly close. What is the effect on my SWCG if the salt level is 600 less than target?

I am confused on some goals/targets. For instance, my CH is 250, with a SWG my goal looks like 350-340, but the Pool Math app says my target is 270. Which number am I actually targeting? Also, it says to raise CH I need to add Calcium Chloride- any kind in particular? The colored-plaster owner in me is saying "no no no CaCl!" lol. Is this an issue still for colored plaster or only during application?

My TA looks high, so add MA then aerate I'm thinking.


Good thing is, I've got .a CSI of .14 which PM says is good. :)
 
Last edited:

cfherrman

TFP Guide
May 10, 2017
2,527
Hays, Kansas
If the salt cell is happy don't touch the salt level, lower is better because you can always add more.

When it comes to levels you can follow tfp specs or do your own and follow the csi. If your following csi, like most people do, ignore almost of "recommend level" and treat them like a guide.

Leave your ch alone, it will raise from water top ups. Don't use Cal hypo, you have enough ch already

If you couldn't see the black dot in a glance then your done, your cya is 50.

Go to pool math and lower your ta to 70 and see what that does to your csi, try to get your csi closer to -.01
 
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mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
36,032
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Good job. Results look good.
I would leave your salinity were it is. You will not get any rain, and any muriatic acid you use or people that swim will add a little salt.

As Casey says, no calcium needed. You will get it soon enough with your fill water. You should test your fill water for CH, TA, and pH. Record it down were you can find it, like the NOTES section in the PoolMath app.

Your TA will fall as you add MA to lower pH. You can get aggressive with it or let it happen over time. When your pH hits 8 lower it to 7.4 for now. That will drop your TA over time.

Go swimming!
 
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Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
20,832
Bedford, TX
P,

As far as your IC40 goes, you need to know three things... What is the actual salt level based upon a Taylor K-1766 test, what the cell "thinks" the salt level is by looking at ScreenLogic, and the cell's low salt light..

The cell's test is +/- 500 so it can way off... I suggest you try to keep the actual salt level below 3400 if you can.. The cell operates between 2600 and 4500 ppm.

Less than 2600 will turn on the Red low salt light and the cell will no longer work.
2600 to 2800 the cell work work with a lower output and will turn on the same red low salt light.
2800 to 4500 the Green good salt light is on and cell works fine..
Above 4500 the Green salt light will flash, but the cell will continue to work

The key is to make the cell happy so long as you don't increase your actual level above 3800 or so... It really depends on if you can taste the salt in your pool or not. I find keeping the actual salt level below 3400 helps me not taste the salt as much.

So.. what is your actual salt level and what does ScreenLogic display say the salt level is???

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Richard320

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 6, 2010
23,932
San Dimas, CA (LA County)
As the days get longer, I suspect you're going to want to raise the CYA to about 70. Maybe even 80.

As stated earlier, don't worry about Calcium. It'll rise plenty fast on its own.
 
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pewl

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2018
88
Coastal SoCal
So.. what is your actual salt level and what does ScreenLogic display say the salt level is???

Thanks,

Jim R.

First of all, thank you guys for helping me out here. Great info! I guess it's just a matter of finding my pool's happy place and not necessarily stressing over each line item in pool math and adding with each suggestion. I will work on getting more familiar with CSI for sure.

Jim, my salt is 2800 from the K-1766 test kit, 2950 from the Screenlogic reading. :)
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
20,832
Bedford, TX
Jim, my salt is 2800 from the K-1766 test kit, 2950 from the Screenlogic reading. :)

I would want the actual salt to be 3000 to 3200... Your cell reads salt as slightly high, but well in spec.. The problem cells are those that read low.. So they "think" the salt is 2600 when it is actually 3000, this forces you to add much more salt in order to make the cell see at least 2800..

Yours is working fine, but Pentair puts a low limit for salt at 2800 to protect the cell. I would not go any lower (actual salt level).

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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