StaRite Heater SR400LP Code E01 Help

towney

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2007
84
Central Florida
#1
Last time I had this type of issue the thermal regulator was replaced in 2010. Getting a code E01, r=05 and LED light 11 & service light goes on. Pulled the thermistor and tested with a meter and getting 8.5 on resistance/Ohm. Is there anything else I should test or is this a bad thermistor? Not a pro on multimeter testing so any instruction to narrow the source would be appreciated. Also, when I apply any type heat to thermistor while testing the reading goes down.

Problem: The heater stays on for a bit and then turns off, keeps recycling from on and off.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,956
FL
#2
Did you try removing the thermal regulator and see what it looks like? It could be all gunked up again.
 

towney

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2007
84
Central Florida
#3
Took the thermal regulator off and it was gunked and had some corrosion. Cleaned it off a bit and boil tested, it opened and closed during the test. I re-installed it and it is now working but to be on the safe side I ordered an new one. Seems these regulator only last about 4 years, this was the last time I had it replaced.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
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FL
#4
It really depends on your water chemical quality. Something is off enough times for this to happen.
 

towney

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2007
84
Central Florida
#5
Ok replaced thermal regulator, thermistor and high temp switch. But there seems something else is triggering E01 code, service heater and heater cycling on/off. On the board when it cycled off the LED11 light was lit red too. Any suggestions?
Also on initial startup the display shows a 128 r---5.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,956
FL
#6
When you replaced the thermal regulator, did you happen to check and feel if the bypass was still intact? It sits in the header directly above the thermal reg. It feels like a small round disk.

Also the 128 R---5 on start up is just showing you that it's booting up and what rev code the board is. R 8 is a newer board rev code so you have a much older board.
 

towney

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2007
84
Central Florida
#7
Thanks ps0303, I'll check this tomorrow and post back. What am I feeling for and if I had to replace it I take it I have to take off the manifold to access and replace? Part # ?
Is it necessary to get the rev8 board? I take it this is the bypass valve.

Bypass Valve.jpg
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
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FL
#8
No you don't need the newer board unless there is a problem with the old but I don't think so. Yes that this the bypass. You should be able to feel that round portion of it. To replace you have to remove all of the bolts holding the header in place and then you can access it. You would also need to replace the coil and tubesheet sealing O-ring and manifold o-ring, kit # 77707-0120.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,956
FL
#11
No as long as you can feel it and it's in place and not falling down then it's good. Well not too much else to test if you don't have the parts on hand.

One thing you could eliminate is see if there is water in the canister. Unscrew one of the bottom bolts on the header and if water comes out, your heat exchanger has a hole in it and then you should consider a new unit.
 

towney

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2007
84
Central Florida
#12
ps0303 thanks for your help. It was the thermal regulator gone bad and also not enough flow to the heater. Replaced the TR and increased the flow, all is good. Keep posting solutions for all of us, this is what this forum is about~Help. Thanks....
 
Nov 16, 2012
10
#13
I just experienced the same problem as the OP had. 4 year old heater cycling with the HLS led lit during the off cycle. Pulled the thermal regulator and found corroded and would not open when put in boiling water test. No one had the part locally, so ordered online, replaced and the heater is working perfectly!

I am going to order a couple more as I believe my salt pool contributes to premature failure. I guess I should expect 3-4 years out of the regulator.

A question to the experts then... Would it be a good idea to bypass my heater when I know I'm not going to be using the heater for a few weeks period of time? Could I prolong the life of all the parts coming into contact with the salt water by doing this? I'm only getting about 18 months life of the external safety pressure relief valve due to the corrosion.

Thank you so much to the experts here for assisting me in solving my heater problem so quickly & efficiently. You guys ROCK !!!

Brian
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,956
FL
#14
If we were going to not use it for say 6 months, bypass maybe. How well is your water balanced? Unbalanced water can kill this part easily.
 
#15
I also have a Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm 400 (SR400NA) with the error code E 01, service heater. I have a pool company that opens my pool (and summer stores the cover) and they said I have a heater problem. Person said the E 01 code indicates the thermistor but he unplugged the old one and tested with a new one (he did not install it but held it in his hand plugged in). Same E 01 code error. He pointed out a mouse nest inside the heater and said they may have damaged the control board. It would be $400 + labor to repair it. When I asked if that was not the problem then what. He said they would keep trying until they got it fixed. I said I would research on my own. I did clean the skimmers and pump basket, checked the DI back pressue, and reset the circuit breakers but still got the same error code.

On this thread, it says to check the thermal regulator. I'm not overly mechanical but I could replace the thermistor and the thermal regulator. Any suggestions?
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,956
FL
#16
I also have a Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm 400 (SR400NA) with the error code E 01, service heater. I have a pool company that opens my pool (and summer stores the cover) and they said I have a heater problem. Person said the E 01 code indicates the thermistor but he unplugged the old one and tested with a new one (he did not install it but held it in his hand plugged in). Same E 01 code error. He pointed out a mouse nest inside the heater and said they may have damaged the control board. It would be $400 + labor to repair it. When I asked if that was not the problem then what. He said they would keep trying until they got it fixed. I said I would research on my own. I did clean the skimmers and pump basket, checked the DI back pressue, and reset the circuit breakers but still got the same error code.

On this thread, it says to check the thermal regulator. I'm not overly mechanical but I could replace the thermistor and the thermal regulator. Any suggestions?
Best to start a new thread with your questions.

Since there was a nest inside, are any of the wires chewed up? Yes when mice get up in the area of the board it can cause damage to the board giving you various error codes.

Sure you can replace both of those parts easily. You can visually inspect the thermal regulator and if it it is all gunked up and not operating correctly, replace it.