Sta-Rite Sr400 Heater Wont stay fired up.

#1
First Time here.. Thanks in Advance..


I have a Sta-rite SR400 pool heater.. its a little rough on the outside due to the harsh sun here in LV, but once I removed the cover, it doesn't look all that bad. There were some leaves and stuff under the cover, but I vacuumed that all out. (no varmints )

As Of right now I turn it on, it struggles to lite, eventually gets lit then shuts down after a few seconds of running (never runs more then 20 seconds) The blower continues, it starts the process over. (sometimes it never actually gets lit)

Wondering where I should start? I have looked over the forum, but all posts seem to be older.

Thanks
Greg
 

Patrick_B

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 7, 2011
14,999
Midland TX
#2
Hey Greg,

Welcome to TFP.

Sorry I won't offer much, but maybe one of our experts on heaters will pick this up today. PS0303 is a heater guy and he will know what to suggest. Wish you luck and hope you enjoy the forum.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,959
FL
#4
Since it's cycling it could be several issues. Could be a blower motor issue or even water in the canister.
 
OP
OP
G
Apr 15, 2017
8
Las Vegas NV
#5
Ok thanks for the Start..
I have read about both the LEDs and Codes..
Can someone give me a down and dirty how to investigate this?
Where can I find the LEDs? I have not opened the grey box inside of the shell yet..

Thanks again for everything
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,959
FL
#8
I would start by cleaning out the combustion chamber.

With dirt and or debris in there is will not start easily and will time out.
You can't do this on these units. The burners are in a sealed canister. It takes lots of work and if you don't seal the canister up correctly when you're done, you have possibly created a fire hazard.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,959
FL
#9
Also..

The blower motor seems to sound fine? should i be listening for something else?
Thanks again
Well unless you work on them all the time you will not notice a sound change or how strong it is blowing.

For starters, open the cover by removing the four screws that hols the two halves together. Once you have done this, the top comes off when you remove two pins that hold it in place. Now you can flip the top over and there are LEDs on the back hat IF it shows you an error code on the display, you can see what it is referencing. Seeing your system is NOT giving you an error code but cycling, I do not think looking at the LEDs will help you at all.

Cycling can be several things as I stated earlier. It could also possibly be a bad ignitor as well. How are your troubleshooting skills?
 
OP
OP
G
Apr 15, 2017
8
Las Vegas NV
#10
I am pretty handy.. I am also a good listener..

I will start with removing the covers and investigating error codes first. When would it give me this error code?
I am starting from scratch.. I am assuming you are saying it will not show an error code while its cycling ?

Thanks for your patience.
Greg
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,959
FL
#11
It will not show an error code while cycling. This is why I say looking at the back of the board won't tell you much.

So does it light and then go out and then light and go out, etc? If you can video it and post that can help also.
 
OP
OP
G
Apr 15, 2017
8
Las Vegas NV
#12
IMG_7632.jpg

So You can see what I am working with... I have to read the display at night. ( The Sun here in LV is HARSH)

When its Cycling.. The three lights to the left lite individually across..

I Will start looking into the ignitor.

- - - Updated - - -

I will make video tonight when we are able to see the display a little better..

Thanks for all this help..

Greg
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,959
FL
#13
You definitely need to replace the keypad membrane and probably the board underneath. Once that keypad is shot like yours, you have left the board exposed to the elements. You will get all sorts of issues with the keypad like that. Start with replacing the keypad membrane and then lets see what happens.

Glad I asked for a picture because I could have you chasing your tail when it just might be only the keypad. Visual inspection is a big part of diagnosing issues.

When you get the new keypad, peel the old one off and stick the new one on. Pretty easy but make sure you put the new one on straight.
 
OP
OP
G
Apr 15, 2017
8
Las Vegas NV
#14
Ok thanks again..
Here is my only problem.. I don't want to invest to much money into this if there is a major problem..
Is replacing the membrane fairly cheap?
Where is the best place to get one?

Thanks again for everything
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
3,959
FL
#18
Watched your videos. OK so here is what I would say neds to be done. I see you removed the thermo regulator which is shot. You also need to check the bypass valve which you can feel up inside the top area where the regulator goes. It should feel like a round button of sorts. If you don't feel it, then its gone and need sot be replaced. You should also remove the bottom bolt on the header, where the eater flows in and out, and if when you remove it, water comes out, your are done. The heat exchanger has a hole(s) in it and not worth repairing.

I would have to tell you that you are probably better off replacing the unit or hiring a repair company to come out and chase down all of the issues you have.