Split hose plunger valve and strainer connector sets

PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
Hi,
Newbie here! Thanks to this wonderful forum and advice from AGP experts here, my 24x12x52 Intex pool is leveled and almost ready to go.
Problem is, I am missing some parts to connect the SWS to the pool. I need help locating these parts or if someone can recommend compatible parts.

11872 - Split Hose Plunger Valve
10127, 11070, 11072 - Strainer Connector Set

I am in MA and have purchased these from websites, hopefully legit but, I was hoping to get these parts today and not wait another 7-10 days. I’ve called every Leslie’s Pool Stores within 100 miles without any luck. HELP
 

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PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
Hi!
Newbie here from MA. Thanks to all your help and knowledge my first go at putting up an Intex 24x12x52 AGP is almost a success. It’s leveled and looks great but, I am missing parts to connect the pool with the salt water pump and sand filter. I am having trouble finding the following parts and was hoping someone can help me hack it with other compatible parts.
missing parts:
10127, 11070,11072 - Strainer grid connectors
11872 - Split hose plunger valve

I am working with 1.25” hoses from the pool and 1.5” threaded hose from pump however, I can add adapters and replace 1.25” hoses with 1.5” hoses if need be.
I found this three way pool diverter and was wondering if this could work. TIA!!!
4B227225-0814-4BC1-B525-F28764D85B06.png37BEE7C4-1189-4308-9F47-414AECFA32C2.png
 

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PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
Is your sand filter/pump & swg all intex?
Yes, I upgraded to the 16” tank with 2150 GPH pump (26679EG, ECO20110-2), which I purchased separately. The pool I purchased came with a sand filter pump and pool and was shipped in 3 different boxes. Box 1 got lost in shipping and was never found. Since I upgraded the pump, I assumed all I needed was a new pool liner. Except, I’m realizing now it also contained the hoses, connectors, and strainer nozzles to connect the pool to the pump/filter. I was able to buy 1.25” hoses with clamps and am trying to find compatible pieces to replace the missing ones. I hope this makes sense. 🤦🏻‍♀️😂
 

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
1,281
Hernando, Ms
If u want to make it easier u can upgrade the jets to regular above ground hayward style ones - they have them @ pool stores -
F6988363-4B8F-424D-A514-D5152597D07E.pngjust not sure how u can address the intake unless u wanna put a skimmer in . The issue with mating intex with standard parts is the threads are different so it can cause some leaks . I have standard hoses, returns, skimmer etc. & used some intex adapters for my intex swg. 5CF73EE5-EF13-48F0-B73D-5AEC8FE8DE7A.png
by the way i also have that white 3 way valve & it works ok - its bulky so I would postion it @ the pump
 
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PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
How you doing on your parts hunt? This is a tough year to find many pool parts.
Ain't that the truth! I was lucky enough to find the parts. Hopefully the correct parts arrive and in pristine condition, especially since I paid an absurd markup for a piece that cost $9 retail. I received and installed the strainer/nozzle set. Just waiting on the dual plunger valve to arrive later this week. Any recommendations on steps to take to get the pump and filter up and running? I have read through many of the Pool School posts, however, could not find one to walk me through the steps. My pool will be filled with hose water, then what!? Do I test the water before turning on the pump/filter and/or adding salt? Thanks for checking in!
 

PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
Hi! Thanks so much for replying with these great recs! I'm such a newbie that I am not even sure why those jets are an upgrade 🤦‍♀️😂 but I will take your word for it as it sounds like you've done this for much longer than I have. That said, I will look into these for next year as I learn more and since the Index strainer nozzle set arrived today. The 3 way valve arrive today but, I didn't have the parts to install it correctly, I will wait for the Intex part to arrive in the next 2 days. In the meantime, I am onto learning the steps to running the pump/filter in order to have safe water for us to swim in. The pool will be filled with hose water, then what? Do I test the water first then add salt and run the pump/filter? I am thoroughly confused despite reading many many Pool School posts. I purchased the recommended TF-100 test kit but, I am just not finding the step by step process I need to follow. Thanks of all your help! I truly appreciate it!

If u want to make it easier u can upgrade the jets to regular above ground hayward style ones - they have them @ pool stores -
View attachment 153721just not sure how u can address the intake unless u wanna put a skimmer in . The issue with mating intex with standard parts is the threads are different so it can cause some leaks . I have standard hoses, returns, skimmer etc. & used some intex adapters for my intex swg. View attachment 153720
by the way i also have that white 3 way valve & it works ok - its bulky so I would postion it @ the pump
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,799
Northern NJ
My pool will be filled with hose water, then what!? Do I test the water before turning on the pump/filter and/or adding salt? Thanks for checking in!
What test kits do you have?

Fill the pool and then turn on the pump. With an AGP the pump should automatically prime.

  • Once you have the water circulating then test the pH and TA of the water.
  • Add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine.
  • Add 40 ppm of stabilizer using the sock method
  • Add the salt to the water with the SWG off.
  • Adjust the pH only if it is not in the 7's. Adding stabilizer will lower the pH some.
  • Go swim
  • Check salt levels and CYA after 24 hours
  • Turn on SWG if you have the minimum salt levels for it
  • Once you have the SWG running then raise your CYA to around 60

 

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
1,281
Hernando, Ms
Glad your parts are coming in!
Great job on getting a great test kit too!

Your fresh fill will not have fc, cya, or salt
- if you wish to test the other parameters you may as it’s good to know the ph,ta,& ch of your fill water.
Start adding water - then liquid chlorine 5ppm worth every day until your swg is up & running. This is paramount.
You can brush it around in the water if the pool isn’t full enough to run the pump yet.

When you’re pump is functional & u can circulate the water add enough granular stabilizer/cya via the sock method to get to 40ppm (add to sock or knee high, tie a knot in it, hang infront of jet, squeeze every once in a while) then you can retest in a couple days & add enough to get to 70 ppm total. Cya doesn’t fully register on the test for a couple days after adding.

add salt whenever u want - be careful not to over shoot the 2900 ppm or you’ll be draining. It needs about 24hrs to dissolve/mix before u crank up the swg.
It also may not fully show up on the test until then.

After you’re full then you can go ahead & test fc, cc, ph, ta, & ch - you can post results here if u like & we’ll go from there.

Your swg is not designed to get you to target from 0. It only produces a finite amount of fc daily. You have to help it along with liquid chlorine & then it can maintain for u.
Also u don’t want algae growing in your water while you wait for your pool to fill or salt to mix. You may need to supplement with liquid chlorine while u figure out your swg run time. Also if you have a large bather load /party etc.

Always follow theFC/CYA Chart
& while you’re using just liquid chlorine you will use the chlorine portion of the chart for your targets.
Use PoolMath to figure all your chemical additions - the app is great & has a handy log feature as well.
 

PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
Glad your parts are coming in!
Great job on getting a great test kit too!

Your fresh fill will not have fc, cya, or salt
- if you wish to test the other parameters you may as it’s good to know the ph,ta,& ch of your fill water.
Start adding water - then liquid chlorine 5ppm worth every day until your swg is up & running. This is paramount.
You can brush it around in the water if the pool isn’t full enough to run the pump yet.

When you’re pump is functional & u can circulate the water add enough granular stabilizer/cya via the sock method to get to 40ppm (add to sock or knee high, tie a knot in it, hang infront of jet, squeeze every once in a while) then you can retest in a couple days & add enough to get to 70 ppm total. Cya doesn’t fully register on the test for a couple days after adding.

add salt whenever u want - be careful not to over shoot the 2900 ppm or you’ll be draining. It needs about 24hrs to dissolve/mix before u crank up the swg.
It also may not fully show up on the test until then.

After you’re full then you can go ahead & test fc, cc, ph, ta, & ch - you can post results here if u like & we’ll go from there.

Your swg is not designed to get you to target from 0. It only produces a finite amount of fc daily. You have to help it along with liquid chlorine & then it can maintain for u.
Also u don’t want algae growing in your water while you wait for your pool to fill or salt to mix. You may need to supplement with liquid chlorine while u figure out your swg run time. Also if you have a large bather load /party etc.

Always follow theFC/CYA Chart
& while you’re using just liquid chlorine you will use the chlorine portion of the chart for your targets.
Use PoolMath to figure all your chemical additions - the app is great & has a handy log feature as well.
Wow, once again, incredibly helpful, thank you!!! I can finally envision us swimming and enjoying the pool before Fall 😂. Since the pool is only 1/3 full I began filling it again today until it almost reached the bottom of the lower port holes. I slowly added and did my best to evenly distributed 3 cups of Robelle Shock Treat which is 12.5% Sodium Hypochlorite and brushed it around. Then, I added 120 pounds of salt and continued to brush it around, since I cannot run the pump until I hook up the last piece. The pool immediately turned yellow after adding the liquid Chlorine. I've read this may be because the source of the water is from a well, which ours is. I will add the same amount of chlorine again every day until I can run the pump. My pool requires 210 pounds of salt. I only added 120 pounds today. Is it safe to add the rest of the salt tomorrow even though I cannot finish filling it with water or should I wait until I can completely fill the pool with water to add the rest of the salt? Thanks again!
 

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
1,281
Hernando, Ms
You wanna wait until you can circulate & you’re @ your normal Water volume so u know its evenly distributed before testing & adding more salt. Not sure if u got the Taylor salt test or are using salt test strips but the strips can be +or- 500 ppm so take that into account. Basically u wanna add enough to make the swg happy but not enough to make it mad 🤣 the intex ones definitely don’t like extra salt. So maybe leave a bag or two out , try to run it & go from there. You can always add more but the only way to get it out is drain some h2o.

For the iron check out these:


If you’ve got iron in your fill water, use Polyfill to remove it
 
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PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
What test kits do you have?

Fill the pool and then turn on the pump. With an AGP the pump should automatically prime.

  • Once you have the water circulating then test the pH and TA of the water.
  • Add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine.
  • Add 40 ppm of stabilizer using the sock method
  • Add the salt to the water with the SWG off.
  • Adjust the pH only if it is not in the 7's. Adding stabilizer will lower the pH some.
  • Go swim
  • Check salt levels and CYA after 24 hours
  • Turn on SWG if you have the minimum salt levels for it
  • Once you have the SWG running then raise your CYA to around 60

Hi again! And, thank you, again for such awesome and step by step processes! you have given me hope that this newbie will pull through and be able to have this pool up and running before Fall, LOL. I ordered the TF-100 as recommended here. Unfortunately, I am still waiting for the dual valve pump connector in order to get the pump and filter up and running. In the meantime, as per recommendations on this forum, I added 5 ppm of liquid chlorine and 120 pounds salt to the current 2800 gallons of water in the pool. As I was brushing I had the water hose on adding water to right under the lowest port holes then had to stop. I will add more chlorine tomorrow. Is it safe to add more salt or should I wait until I can fill the pool more? Thank you!!!
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,799
Northern NJ
Post in thread 'Split hose plunger valve and strainer connector sets' by PoolLoveLady has been reported by ajw22. Reason given:
Content being reported:
Hi,
Newbie here! Thanks to this wonderful forum and advice from AGP experts here, my 24x12x52 Intex pool is leveled and almost ready to go.
Problem is, I am missing some parts to connect the SWS to the pool. I need help locating these parts or if someone can recommend compatible parts.

11872 - Split Hose Plunger Valve
10127, 11070, 11072 - Strainer Connector Set

I am in MA and have purchased these from websites, hopefully legit but, I was hoping to get these parts today and not wait another 7-10 days. I’ve called every Leslie’s Pool Stores within 100 miles without any luck. HELP
 

PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
You wanna wait until you can circulate & you’re @ your normal Water volume so u know its evenly distributed before testing & adding more salt. Not sure if u got the Taylor salt test or are using salt test strips but the strips can be +or- 500 ppm so take that into account. Basically u wanna add enough to make the swg happy but not enough to make it mad 🤣 the intex ones definitely don’t like extra salt. So maybe leave a bag or two out , try to run it & go from there. You can always add more but the only way to get it out is drain some h2o.

For the iron check out these:


If you’ve got iron in your fill water, use Polyfill to remove it
Makes sense!! I definitely want a happy swg so, I will wait to add anymore salt. In the meantime, I will check out the iron articles you've shared! I really appreciate your help and quick and comprehensive responses!
 
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PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
Makes sense!! I definitely want a happy swg so, I will wait to add anymore salt. In the meantime, I will check out the iron articles you've shared! I really appreciate your help and quick and comprehensive responses!
Hi again! So, the part came in and everything is hooked up and ready to go. Do I need to backwash before I start it up even though the pool is green and high in iron? I did my research and am going to pick up the materials needed to filter out the Iron via bucket an Polyfill but before I do that, can I use my intent skimmer to essentially do the same thing?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,799
Northern NJ
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PoolLoveLady

Member
Jul 10, 2020
16
North East
Hi!

So, my pool water is finally clear as of Sunday morning. I have been adding 5 ppm every day since Friday and added only 120 lbs. of salt (210 lbs. recommended, however, the display panel does not read low salt so I haven’t added more yet). Since adding the salt I’ve been running the SFP and SWG on Boost as recommended by the manual to clean and clear the water before adding CYA. Yesterday, I added 30 ppm CYA to a sock and put it in the Intex skimmer basket I attached to one of the inlets. My levels this morning are as follows:
Cl 0.5 - 1
Ph 7.8
TA 90
CYA 0
I’m thinking I’ll have to wait until at least 2 pm to test CYA. Do I continue to add liquid Chlorine until the CYA kicks in? If I understand these levels correctly, my Cl and CYA are low and the others are ok. What do I do to help bring these levels up to an appropriate range? Thanks!