South Jersey Fiberglass Install

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
10,487
Northern NJ
When you add a Jandy valve and actuator to the return T I would have them replace all the ball valves with Jandy NeverLube valves.

If you ever decide you want to run the spillover all the time you just need to adjust the cam on the return actuator to keep the spa return partially open rather then fully closed. No need to add a bypass.
 

tank47

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2019
56
NJ
When you add a Jandy valve and actuator to the return T I would have them replace all the ball valves with Jandy NeverLube valves.

If you ever decide you want to run the spillover all the time you just need to adjust the cam on the return actuator to keep the spa return partially open rather then fully closed. No need to add a bypass.
I'll ask about the never lube valves and yes good point on the actuator adjustment if needed down the road. Thanks for all your help!
 

tank47

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2019
56
NJ
I can't believe my build is still ongoing :rolleyes:. And here I thought fiberglass was dig a hole, drop a pool, start swimming! I ended up upgrading some of my equipment late in the game (upgrading filter to 325 and pump to vs 950 (2.7hp)), which has caused some of these delays, but boy is the waiting painful! I guess this would be worse if it was July and I was missing swim time.

I am looking for some advice for the air control valve for my spa portion of the pool. I was planning on just capping this vertical pipe through my pavers or coping with a spa air control valve but the PB suggested an option of extending the line away from the pool maybe 15' for two reasons:
1 - aesthetics
2 - noise

I didn't think either would be a problem but figured I throw this out here for some advice. Is it helpful to have that valve near the spa while you are in it or should I run it further away? Any recommendations?
 

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