South Jersey Fiberglass Install

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
10,850
Northern NJ
When you add a Jandy valve and actuator to the return T I would have them replace all the ball valves with Jandy NeverLube valves.

If you ever decide you want to run the spillover all the time you just need to adjust the cam on the return actuator to keep the spa return partially open rather then fully closed. No need to add a bypass.
 

tank47

Bronze Supporter
Apr 28, 2019
66
NJ
When you add a Jandy valve and actuator to the return T I would have them replace all the ball valves with Jandy NeverLube valves.

If you ever decide you want to run the spillover all the time you just need to adjust the cam on the return actuator to keep the spa return partially open rather then fully closed. No need to add a bypass.
I'll ask about the never lube valves and yes good point on the actuator adjustment if needed down the road. Thanks for all your help!
 

tank47

Bronze Supporter
Apr 28, 2019
66
NJ
I can't believe my build is still ongoing :rolleyes:. And here I thought fiberglass was dig a hole, drop a pool, start swimming! I ended up upgrading some of my equipment late in the game (upgrading filter to 325 and pump to vs 950 (2.7hp)), which has caused some of these delays, but boy is the waiting painful! I guess this would be worse if it was July and I was missing swim time.

I am looking for some advice for the air control valve for my spa portion of the pool. I was planning on just capping this vertical pipe through my pavers or coping with a spa air control valve but the PB suggested an option of extending the line away from the pool maybe 15' for two reasons:
1 - aesthetics
2 - noise

I didn't think either would be a problem but figured I throw this out here for some advice. Is it helpful to have that valve near the spa while you are in it or should I run it further away? Any recommendations?
 

Attachments

tank47

Bronze Supporter
Apr 28, 2019
66
NJ
They said it's for letting air in to help with the jets. I think you might have it as well but your PB probably ran your air line to your pad bc you have a blower.
 

mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
12,800
Pleasanton, CA
A well designed spa should not require a blower. My spa does not have a blower but I get more then enough bubbles. So much so, it splashes up on the deck.
 

tank47

Bronze Supporter
Apr 28, 2019
66
NJ
A well designed spa should not require a blower. My spa does not have a blower but I get more then enough bubbles. So much so, it splashes up on the deck.
Heres to hoping my spa is well designed! Do you have an air control valve through your pool deck near the spa or did you run it further away? Or perhaps you have a completely different setup.

Hopefully I can test the action while everything is still open so I can make changes if needed while it's still cost effective to do so.
 

mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
12,800
Pleasanton, CA
I just have a single vent pipe without air control about 15' from the spa. Never saw the need for air control.

If the spa has a Hartford loop so the vent pipe is prevented from filling with water when off, then you should be able to do without a blower. Most of the time, PBs use blowers because they really don't know how to design a spa without one. When the vent pipes are long and fill with water, the venturis have a difficult time removing the water without the help of a blower. From the picture, it does not look like the vent pipe has a Hartford loop. I would ask for one unless the vent pipe has an uphill climb.

However, if you have deck vents at the spa, then a blower is not needed nor possible.
 

tank47

Bronze Supporter
Apr 28, 2019
66
NJ
I just have a single vent pipe without air control about 15' from the spa. Never saw the need for air control.

If the spa has a Hartford loop so the vent pipe is prevented from filling with water when off, then you should be able to do without a blower. Most of the time, PBs use blowers because they really don't know how to design a spa without one. When the vent pipes are long and fill with water, the venturis have a difficult time removing the water without the help of a blower. From the picture, it does not look like the vent pipe has a Hartford loop. I would ask for one unless the vent pipe has an uphill climb.

However, if you have deck vents at the spa, then a blower is not needed nor possible.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll ask the PB to put in a Hartford loop and hope he knows what he's doing.
 

tank47

Bronze Supporter
Apr 28, 2019
66
NJ
I updated the first post on this thread to include a timeline. Just had the PB out for three days of work, they were making sure pool was level, swapped my pump to VS950, tweaked my equipment pad to my liking, finished the backfill and did a rough grade on rest of backyard. Side note - Thursday Pools (not my manufacturer) has something called backfill eliminator and if anyone is getting one of their pools with a tanning shelf I would say you need to get that.

Had a ton of leaves fall in the pool over Thanksgiving so I spent two hours on the weekend with a hand skimmer getting those out. We have what looks like a murky iced tea concoction for pool water now, real nice shade of brown/green! I guess I need to wait until pavers are down before I can vacuum this out otherwise the mess they will create will just dirty the pool again. My PB was saying to use a special company for this with their own equipment since I should be winterized at this point. They didn't want me to run my equipment until I open to prevent having to re-winterize after the fact. I'm considering ignoring that recommendation so I can vacuum to waste and use my skimmer basket to make sure nothing bad gets into my pipes or pump. Once pool is clean I can then test out my spa to make sure jets are operational to my liking. If for some reason it's not, they can easily dig to fix any issues before I put down pavers. Thoughts? With a VS pump I was thinking I could keep it at low speed 24 hours even in colder weather and it would be ok? Avg temps in my area for Dec are 46-28 and in Jan 42-24.

Electrical is scheduled for Friday and then on to inspections. Then bond beam and coping and hopefully that's it for the pool build. Next step would be pavers and rest of backyard landscaping. Having sunny days with no one showing up to do work has been extremely hard to handle these past two months but weather is too cold to swim anyway so we are sucking it up. At least we are getting a jump on the 2020 season!
0-1.jpg0.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: McLovitz

bmoreswim

Mod Squad
Gold Supporter
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 16, 2012
5,430
Central MD
All is fine running 24/7 until the power goes out during a cold snap and well below freezing temps. It's a risk but you have to weigh your options.

Though your skimmer wier doors can/will freeze.