So my nightmare continues..

lungs414

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 18, 2012
112
Eastern Long Island,New York
After my liner change disaster it seems I have a leak. I have been losing a lot of water quickly. It drops about 2" per day until it hits near boom of the skimmer. Then pretty much stops. The new liner guy came out and did a dive to check out all of the cuts into the line. The 3 returns, main drain, both skimmers and step jets. Found nothing other then on semi loose screw around the main drain. So after days of sequentially plugging things off I have determined the new liner is fine. On Friday night I plugged every fitting. Water held all night, I even used food dye in the skimmers and there was no issue there.
I suspect it is the suction side, as I took all plugs out except the skimmers on saturday night. No water loss to speak of.

I tried to build my own pressure test stick using two 1 1/2" male adaptors one with a cap on it the other with 2 hose bibs and a gauge . Unfortunately the skimmers are not home runs to the valve at the filter, so no way to isolate each skimmer. After using teflon tape and screwing in my sticks and filling with water to 30lbs the pressure doesn't hold for more than a minute and slowly goes to zero.
My question is with suction side valve open only to main drain and closed to skimmers and my homemade pipe screwed in can I rely on this to confirm a leak? I do see some air in the pump at vacuuming pressure, but no more than I had noticed in the past.
I tried this method to test instead of using pressure test plugs and cutting the pipe at the suction side valve and attaching a pressure gauge.

Oh and of coarse all skimmers are in concrete with pavers over them. I seem to remember they are about 3' deep back to the filter. If I have to replace the piping does it have to be below frost line back to pump? That would be a huge disaster.

Any tips would be appreciated.
 

lungs414

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 18, 2012
112
Eastern Long Island,New York
Nothing out of the ordinary. But with plugs left in the bottom of the skimmers water loss has really stopped. I'm just not sure if there pressure stick would indicate a leak or not. I put a decent amount of teflon tape on the male adaptors, but not sure that is where they leak. But I guess if they are plugged and no water loss it has to be the source.

If so, I would plumb home runs from skimmers to pump. Do the new pipes have to be below frost line. Live in NY. When I close the pool I blow out lines add a gallon of RV anti freeze to each skimmer and add teflon tape to gizmos.
 

Newdude

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2019
1,661
NY
Sorry the saga continues for you. It was looking so good when it was filling. My $.02 is that as long as the low spot is below the frost line, and the rest has pitch, any condensation that happens in the blown out pipe will settle below the frost line. Which has a gallon of antifreeze as a failsafe.
 
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lungs414

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 18, 2012
112
Eastern Long Island,New York
So I removed plugs from step jets only. They are Hayward SP1434AKA body. The pool loses water. It will be a nightmare to replace and or try to access the plumbing. Pavers over at least 4" concrete, and very close to bullnose bricks at edge of steps. I found this part from Hayward SP1434T which are described as Test plugs. Can these be permanent plugs, to prevent water from leaking? I hardly use the jets anyway so no big loss that I would worry about. Was thinking possibly glueing them in permanently to make sure they never leak.
Does anyone have any experience with this issue to offer insight?
Thanks.

Or is there a way that I can unscrew the outer trim and screw in some kind go plug that would be more permanent. While the test plugs work, they are dangerous as the wing nut and screw sticks out and someone can get hurt.
Thanks


After that I have to address the skimmer leaks, which are challenging but manageable by abandoning the old pipes and repiping out past the same paver stone/concrete issues.
 
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