SmartSpa SWG not working properly

Daf-Tekno

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2014
82
Calgary / AB
Hi TFP,

Long time no post.

Anyway, I've just upgraded my Controlomatic ChlorMaker to a Controlomatic SmartSpa, as my electrodes had failed after 6 1/2 years (a record apparently!).

On the top of the control box, it states:
Stabiliser: 0
Alongside recommended chlorine levels / pH / etc.

Now I'm setting up my hot tub as before, with c.33 ppm Cyanuric acid as a stabiliser, as the ChlorMaker was fine with it like that.

Nowhere in the literature the SmartSpa came with is stabiliser mentioned.

I've sent emails to Controlomatic but they haven't replied yet.

Does anyone know why the SmartSpa shouldn't have stabiliser present, yet the ChlorMaker is fine with it?

I thought hot tubs needed stabiliser present to ensure, well, stable water chemistry.

Also, the SmartSpa isn't working properly as I get the water balanced.

The chlorine level has gone up from 6.0 to 7.5 overnight, despite it being set to a lower level then recommended for my size.

I think the SmartSpa monitors chlorine levels by detecting a voltage. When the voltage is zero, this relates to no chlorine, and it kicks in.

Could my not yet balanced water be creating a no-voltage scenario, despite the chlorine levels being far too high already?

Yesterday my pH was 10.3 and TA 190.
Today the pH was 8.3 and TA 160.
I'm bringing them down, aiming for pH 7.4 and TA 40.

I'm just not impressed by this so-called 'SmartSpa' system so far, as it isn't being very smart..!

Any suggestions / insights would be much appreciated.
Thanks - DT

(Jacuzzi J480 with ozonator, Delta UV & SWG)
 

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
1,927
Hernando, Ms
Pool Size
26000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
I am not sure how the automatic part of that unit senses the chlorine level (possibly orp) & too much cya may interfere with that but I would imagine 20/30 ppm would be ok & would reduce the harshness of the chlorine on people & equipment.
I wouldn’t aim for less than 50 ta - you don’t want to start a ph bounce situation.
I would turn the unit down some more. They have a strange “menu” that’s not real intuitive.
 

Daf-Tekno

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2014
82
Calgary / AB
Hi MDRagger88,

It was from learned suggestions from here that I now operate at TA 40.
It was said that, if using Borates at c. 40 - 50 ppm and CYN Stabiliser at c.30 - 40 ppm, the chemicals would be stable at TA 40, so that's what I've done for the past 7 years.

I forget why TA 40 is good.
I think ChemGeek had a persuasive reason for why.

The pH would creep up, but I think that is normal as air gets into the water from the waterfall.

Controlomatic have replied, but the reply was confusing and didn't really answer my situation, so I'm waiting for more info from them.

But, so far I'm not impressed with this system.
 

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
1,927
Hernando, Ms
Pool Size
26000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
I stick to ta of 50 w/ borates & ph stays quite stable- every body of water is a little different. If 40 works ok & you don’t experience any issues that’s great. Trouble free is what we’re going for 😁
General recommendations here are approximately 40-50 / I just cautioned u as I wouldn’t want u to overshoot it & suffer “the bounce”. Sorry your chlormaker isn’t living up to its expectations. As with most cells as it’s life deteriorates it will likely produce less & less fc per cycle so perhaps its just new & strong. Maybe their recommendations fall in the middle of the road as far as output over the life of the cell. I would definitely just lower the setting if possible & hope that makes it’s life a little longer than anticipated. I really noticed how much more fc my new saltron mini cell produces since replacing my old one & i only run it for 2 hrs a day now instead of 4 like i was near the end of the last cell’s life.