Jun 3, 2009
14
Texas
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Here are the pool stats today- pH-7.2, TA 185, FC 0.2, TC 0.2, combined chl 0.4, CYA 143, copper .1, phosphate over 4000. Zeo sand filter. 13000 gal vinyl inground pool. We have used 3" chlorine tablets but are switching to liquid chlorine.
We have been battling high levels of metals and staining on the steps. We have used 2 different metal out products- sparkle up, CuLator, and stain out. After cleaning the steps with Vit C, they still stain again right after adding chlorine. We have had problems maintaining a good chlorine level and have had to shock it to boost the level up. The water is cloudy. Today we had the phosphorous level checked at 2 different pool stores and both were over 4000. We intend to order Orenda PR-10000 phosphate remover from Amazon.
Our Zeo sand filter has never had the salt bath (we didn't know we needed to do that) and the company that installed it didn't know we had to do it either. We asked at a second pool company and they were no help either. Suffice it to say we are fed up with pool companies. Has anyone had good luck with Zeo? Do we need to change it out to sand or a silica glass filter?
I would love some advice here. Do we remove the phophates first? With a very high phosphate level will we get an algae bloom? Do we add soda ash first to boost the pH and add chlorine or do we remove the phosphates and then worry about the ph and chlorine?
We seem to be fighting a battle and not winning! Any advice is more than welcome. We don't know where to start.
 
I’ll speak to the Zeo. I use it and love it, it removes particulates I could see at night with the light. They are gone. There are a few of us here.

We don’t recommend it because about half of users have issues that are associated with the size of the particulate. Half get blow out into pool on startup. We chalk that up to the few, various mine locations and the sizes/quality they produce. No way to know what you are getting. That’s not trouble free. If it is working for you, and clarifiers or other junk has not gummed it up, leave it and run pump 1200-1400, it likes slow. It lasts a looong time.

If you do replace, just use sand. Sand, with TFP methods is trouble free.
 
I’ll speak to the Zeo. I use it and love it, it removes particulates I could see at night with the light. They are gone. There are a few of us here.

We don’t recommend it because about half of users have issues that are associated with the size of the particulate. Half get blow out into pool on startup. We chalk that up to the few, various mine locations and the sizes/quality they produce. No way to know what you are getting. That’s not trouble free. If it is working for you, and clarifiers or other junk has not gummed it up, leave it and run pump 1200-1400, it likes slow. It lasts a looong time.

If you do replace, just use sand. Sand, with TFP methods is trouble free.
Have you ever had to do the salt bath with your Zeo? I went to their website and they recommended doing it every few years. Problem with that is that the top of our filter Triton II TR100 is impossible to get off. No luck loosening and removing the top part of it yet...
 
Can someone explain what it means to SLAM your pool
Unlike the typical pool store/service 'dump and pray' method to clear algae, we have a controlled attack based upon science and testing your pool. You maintain the attack and react with how the test results tell you to.

We use regular testing to avoid it altogether, and the regular testing will give you plenty of warning before it goes green if somwthing is amiss. Its always easier to do the same SLAM process before the algae growth cycle becomes a runaway train of a swamp.
 
Have you ever had to do the salt bath with your Zeo? I went to their website and they recommended doing it every few years. Problem with that is that the top of our filter Triton II TR100 is impossible to get off. No luck loosening and removing the top part of it yet...
I’m using glass sand, forgot the name but it was expensive. It filters fine and I never plan to change it ever.

That said, you ou would be wise to get your own test kit. Either a TF-100 or a Taylor K2006C. The pool store test above doesn’t make mathematical sense in the the FC, CC, and TC. Can’t add up the way written. Maybe it’s a typo but the formula is FC+CC=TC. You can’t have a TC of 0.2 and CC of 0.4. That’s why TFP recommends never trusting a pool store to test water. (Except for metals testing). Once you do that you’ll be able to get off the pool store money pit.

If the vitamin C test removed the stain, you have iron in the water. There’s a few threads in the site that describe how to filter some of it out or replace it with non iron containing water.

But the cloudiness and stuff won’t get fixed until you get some chlorine in the water. Sounds like you’re aware of that already but figured I’d mention it just in case.
 
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I’m using glass sand, forgot the name but it was expensive. It filters fine and I never plan to change it ever.

That said, you ou would be wise to get your own test kit. Either a TF-100 or a Taylor K2006C. The pool store test above doesn’t make mathematical sense in the the FC, CC, and TC. Can’t add up the way written. Maybe it’s a typo but the formula is FC+CC=TC. You can’t have a TC of 0.2 and CC of 0.4. That’s why TFP recommends never trusting a pool store to test water. (Except for metals testing). Once you do that you’ll be able to get off the pool store money pit.

If the vitamin C test removed the stain, you have iron in the water. There’s a few threads in the site that describe how to filter some of it out or replace it with non iron containing water.

But the cloudiness and stuff won’t get fixed until you get some chlorine in the water. Sounds like you’re aware of that already but figured I’d mention it just in case.
Yes the Vit C removed the stains but when my water was tested today the iron was only at .1 and that was after using metal out. After some reading and finding my phosphorus was at 4000, it said the cloudy water & high level was due to phosphorus being released after using the metal out. That supposedly increased my phosphorus levels. We’ve used metal remover twice, replaced half the water with fresh tap water but still get the staining when we add chlorine. My next step is to use a phosphorus remover. I can’t seem to maintain a high enough chlorine level either. Sheesh…. I’m at my wits end!
 
Unlike the typical pool store/service 'dump and pray' method to clear algae, we have a controlled attack based upon science and testing your pool. You maintain the attack and react with how the test results tell you to.

We use regular testing to avoid it altogether, and the regular testing will give you plenty of warning before it goes green if somwthing is amiss. Its always easier to do the same SLAM process before the algae growth cycle becomes a runaway train of a swamp.
I can’t seem to find out HOW to SLAM my pool. Where is a link to that?
 

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Yes the Vit C removed the stains but when my water was tested today the iron was only at .1 and that was after using metal out. After some reading and finding my phosphorus was at 4000, it said the cloudy water & high level was due to phosphorus being released after using the metal out. That supposedly increased my phosphorus levels. We’ve used metal remover twice, replaced half the water with fresh tap water but still get the staining when we add chlorine. My next step is to use a phosphorus remover. I can’t seem to maintain a high enough chlorine level either. Sheesh…. I’m at my wits end!
Staining happening after adding the chlorine is an indication of iron, but no clue if all the other stuff you added is causing some problems as well.

Have you tested your fill water for metals? (Are you on a well?) That may be why replacing the water isn’t helping. Any chance you can fill with softened or filtered water? You might try the poly-fill filtering process to filter the iron out, though I’ve never needed to do that.

Contrary to it’s name, “metal out” doesn’t actually take metal “out” of the water. It just keeps it dissolved and you have to keep using it regularly to keep it that way, but then seems to force you to run the chlorine too low, which causes algae.
 
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