Should I/Can I upgrade my SWG?

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R

Renshi

0
Jun 29, 2015
30
Lexington/SC
So pool is going into it's 5th year. Last year I had to fight the algae a lot towards the end of the season (hottest months). My first SWG that came with the pool never real had this issue and from what I can remember did not run at 100% purification very often. However when it died and I replaced it I replaced it from saltpoolguys.com with the equivalent model which is RC 35/22. I just uncovered the pool this year and I have noticed the purifier is already running at 100% some of the day and it is barely breaking 80 degrees outside. I recently with the last 2 weeks descaled the fins using the muratic acid method so I don;t think scale build up can be any issue here. So here are my questions.

1. Should I invest in a larger SWG like say the SC-48 found here? AutoPilot Pool Pilot Experts | SaltPoolGuys.com
2. Will this keep the algae problems down? I am assuming I was having algae trouble with this SWG because it was making clorine 100% of the time and it just could not make enough?
3. Will my AutoPilot be able to use the larger SWG or will I have to upgrade that too?
4. What is the different between these two? AutoPilot Pool Pilot Experts | SaltPoolGuys.com and then this one https://www.saltpoolguys.com/autopilot-pool-pilot-ppc2-|-rc28-cell/

Here are my pool specs and pics of my current SWG and my AutoPilot model info.

19K gal, IG vinyl, 1.24 HP Jandy pump, Jandy sand filter, AutoPilot Pool Pilot Model #DIG-220, AutoPilot Digital SWG

Thanks in advance for the advice and please forgive my ignorance. Learning as I go.

autopilot.jpgswg.jpg


 
R,

Looks like the RC35 generates about 1.28 lbs of chlorine over a 24 hour period. I have a Pentair IC40 which generates about 1.4 lbs of chlorine over a 24 hour period.

Your pool is 19K and mine is 17.5K, so our pools are close to the same size.

I say this because I never have to run my cell anywhere close to 100%. I don't think your problem is the cell size.

I would suspect your problem is that your CYA is way too low. Without enough CYA in your water the cell cannot generate enough chlorine to keep up.

So tell us..

1. What is your current CYA reading?
2. What FC value are you trying to keep?
3. How long do you run your pump?
4. How do you currently test your pool water?

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
1. I do not know. The local pool stores testing machine was down so I will get it tested Tuesday when it is fixed. I don't know how to test it myself but I am certainly open to learning.

2. No clue. I usually just get the water tested and buy what the printout recommends.

3. 8 hours per day.

4. Pool store around the corner uses a dropper of some kind and puts it into this centrafuge type thing with some sort of cartridge. It spins and then prints out a sheet with my pools current specs and what is low etc.

I'll be able to post results Tuesday if they have their machine fixed.

The pool worked flawlessly for the first 2 years and then once I had to replace the SWG the next season I started having algae issues where I was having to shock the pool everyy couple of weeks to get ride of it. Just trying to get back to the trouble free pool I had the first two years.
 
R,

This site uses almost the exact opposite approach for maintaining a pool. Based upon our experience with thousands of pool store test results, we have never found them to be very accurate. They are more designed to sell you something you most likely do not need, then provide accurate results.

We recommend you test your own pool water using either the TF-100 or the Taylor K2006C. The results of these tests allow you to decide exactly what your pool needs or does not need.

Most people here only use Liquid Chlorine or plan bleach and Muriatic Acid to maintain their pools. And... with a SWCG, we only have to use the Liquid Chlorine in the winter.

If, as I suspect, you have a very low CYA level, then I suggest that you add enough CYA to bring your level up to 70 or 80 ppm.

Also keep in mind that the less your run your pump, the higher the % on the SWCG has to be to generate the needed chlorine.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
It's great that you are eager to learn a new way to care for your pool. Just be sure to take the Pool Store results with a few PPM's of salt (pool humor). Don't buy ANYTHING or add ANYTHING to your pool based on the PS results. I understand that you want some feedback but you just need to have POP (pool owner patience) and wait for the proper tools to arrive in the form of your test kit. You are already on the road to Trouble Free Pool!
 
Ok so my TF-100 test kit came today. I watched the video on the CYA test and performed it accordingly. I was able to completely fill my CYA view tube up with the test water and could still see the black dot with no problems.
I assume this means I need stabilizer?
If so how much?
What kind?
 
We usually say that you should maintain a CYA of around 70 or even 80 for pools that use a SWG. At this time I see you have mentioned that there is some cloudiness. So I would not go up that high yet. I would say you need to get about 30 ppm CYA in for now. And get ready to SLAM your pool.

Please run a full set of tests and post them so we can get a feel for where to go.

Post in this order please
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
 

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R,

The fact that your CYA is only 20 is why you have to run your SWCG at 100%.

If you would increase your CYA to 70 or so, you could run your SWCG at less than 50% most of the year.

You can use our Pool Math link at the top of this page to determine just how much CYA (Stabilizer) you will need to add.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Great that math tool is awesome. Thanks for all the help. it will be nice when I can one day diagnose my own problems and fix it myself.
Will any stabilizer work or is there a particular brand or kind I should look for or stay away from?
 
Renshi said:
Great that math tool is awesome. Thanks for all the help. it will be nice when I can one day diagnose my own problems and fix it myself.
Will any stabilizer work or is there a particular brand or kind I should look for or stay away from?
Click to expand...

R,

You do need to add CYA, but I missed the point about your water being cloudy... Bob reminded me that you really need to fix the cloudy part before adding the CYA. This will prevent you from have to use too much Liquid Chlorine/Bleach.

Suggest you run a quick SLAM to ensure you have killed all the algae and once the water is clear and you pass the OCLT, then add the CYA..

Here are the SLAM instructions... https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

When adding CYA, add less than you think you need, wait for a couple of days and test again, add more as needed. Just try to sneak up on it...

You add CYA by putting it into a old sock and hanging it in front of a pool return (with the pump running). Squeeze the sock every time you pass by..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Once you start learning this method it comes to you pretty quickly and all starts making sense. I too was a victim of The Pool Store and found this site at the beginning of July last year and have never been in a pool store since... I actually am tempted to carry my kit with me if I think I'm going to swim at a hotel so I can test the water before I get in! You are in good hands with these guys and just follow their instructions and read a lot and you will get it really quick and you'll never have a problem with your pool that you don't know how to fix on your own!
 
I love my Autopilot. I have a similar pool size (19,000 gallons) and I selected the RC-52 cell, so well oversized. I run at the lowest of 3 power levels, and 25-50% at most. I did replace after peak summer last year, but can't imagine it ever getting to 50% on max power. So go with the larger cell.
 
Ok so I put 10 lbs of stabilizer in the pool based on the pool calculator. 5 lbs on Wed and 5 lbs on Thursday. I also ran the auto pilot on boost one night. My test results now show.

CYA = 75
PH = 7.5
FC = 9
CC = 0
TC = 9

The pool remains completely clear and yet the purifier is still running at 100% so what should I do now?
 
R,

You do understand the SWCG (purifier???) does not know how much FC is in the water? You are the SWCG's brain.. you have to test the water and then tell the SWCG to increase or decrease the amount of chlorine it is producing..

Based upon this chart... https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

You can tell that with a CYA of 80 (we round up as there is no 75) your very minimum FC level is 4, but your target (where you want to be all the time) is 6 ppm

Jim R.
 

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