Sensor for Intellichlor IC-40

Stew1751

Member
Nov 28, 2015
19
O'Fallon,IL
My FC readings have been reading zero for the past couple of weeks and I’m burning through my menards pool shock to keep up. I figured the IC-40 could use a good acid clean. When I took it off, it appears that my sensor has corroded away. I assume this means it’s time for a new SWG, but just wanted to verify with you all first. Thanks in advance for the advice!
-Chad
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Stew1751

Member
Nov 28, 2015
19
O'Fallon,IL
Also the the salt level lights keep flashing green(good) then red(low). Besides acid clean I have never messed with the SWG. Is it possible to just change out the sensor? If so is that straight forward? Thanks again!
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
22,405
Laughlin, NV
There is a flow switch in the IC but not a sensor. Your flow switch should never corrode away.

Did the IC show no flow?
 

JoyfulNoise

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
May 23, 2015
15,866
Tucson, AZ
The thing that corroded off was the metal spring tab that holds the magnet which closes the reed switch for flow indication. You can easily field-replace the flow switch / thermistor assembly.

Better question - where did the spring-steel metal tab go??? Is it rattling around by the plates? If so, you can short out the plates and cause problems.
 

Stew1751

Member
Nov 28, 2015
19
O'Fallon,IL
The thing that corroded off was the metal spring tab that holds the magnet which closes the reed switch for flow indication. You can easily field-replace the flow switch / thermistor assembly.

Better question - where did the spring-steel metal tab go??? Is it rattling around by the plates? If so, you can short out the plates and cause problems.
The only thing I could find in the unit was what I assume is the magnet. Nothing else was rattling around. I removed that, but I guess the damage could already be done. Would the SWG not produce chlorine if this flow switch/ thermistor assembly was not functioning? It seems pretty easy to replace that assembly and it around $50-60 online. However, do t want waste the money if the cells are already ruined. Thanks again!!!
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,467
Bedford, TX
The salt level lights keep flashing between good and low.
1751,

That is because you are not getting a good flow light... The flashing is a calibration routine, but it will never finish unless you have good flow.

If this were my IC40 I would install a new flow switch and see what happens.. A pretty easy DIY project.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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AZPool20887

New member
Aug 24, 2019
1
Gilbert, AZ
We are having the same problem with our IC40....what was the outcome of your flow switch replacement? Did the new switch fix the problem or did this error ruin your SWCG as you mentioned & require SWCG replacement?
 

Stew1751

Member
Nov 28, 2015
19
O'Fallon,IL
We are having the same problem with our IC40....what was the outcome of your flow switch replacement? Did the new switch fix the problem or did this error ruin your SWCG as you mentioned & require SWCG replacement?
Sorry, for the delay. Yes the new flow switch fixed our problems. the SWCG is working as good as new again! Thanks for everyone's help!