Thanks Jim. I will see if I can figure out how to check this. Correct, we will be closing in the first part of November. Our temperatures have been a bit too high to close now. Cold at night, but warm in the afternoon where its not really below 60 long enough. Of course, my warranty was up on the 3 year for my salt cell, this past April. Figures.2it,
If this were my pool the first thing I would suspect is the Flow Switch Assembly... There is a thermister in there that adjusts the salt level based upon the water temp. When it goes bad, the salt reading is almost always low..
It is an easy DIY replacement, but I'm not sure it makes sense to do it now.. I assume you will be closing your pool soon???
If you know that you plan to replace the flow switch next year, you can cut the green wire coming out of the flow switch, which will disconnect the external thermister and cause the cell to use a fixed internal resister.. Basically makes the cell thing the temperature is somewhere in the 70's..
I just realized that your salt reading was only 3000.. The cell can have an error of about 500 ppm and the K-1766 of 200ppm.. Since the cell will turn on the low salt light at 2800 ppm, you would not have to be off much to get the low salt light to come on...
Generally when the flow switch is bad, the actual salt level is often at 3800 or so, yet the low salt light will still be on..
Did you already try to bring the salt level up??? Why are you running at 3K?? The idea salt level is 3400..
The amount of chlorine that your SWCG produces is based upon two things... One is the output percentage and the other is pump run time.. So, the cell will produce the same amount of chlorine if it is run at 100% for 1 hour or 10% for 10 hours... Without an automation system, you set the output% to more than you need and then simply reduce the pump run time down to what you need to make the amount of chlorine your pool uses each day. In your case, you can set the cell to 20% but run your pump longer, or set the cell to 40% and run the cell less.. Whichever works best for you.
I find that it is easier for me to run my FC a little on the high side.. This means that if I skip several days between tests, I never have to worry about letting my FC drift too low.. How fast the FC gets used is based on your CYA level.. If the CYA is low the FC will get consumed quickly..
An EasyTouch or the new IntelliCenter will control your SWCG in 1% increments instead of the current 20%.. If you can install a new electrical outlet or add a 220 volt dryer outlet, you can install an automation system. That said, trying to retrofit an old pool with an automation system, is much harder than installing one as the pool is being built..
I am an automation kind of guy, but I would recommend you initially try to control your SWCG using the output% and pump run time first, before going down the automation path.. I suspect it would cost about $2K to install an EasyTouch and ScreenLogic if you did it yourself..
Some advantages of an automation system are...
1. SWCG control in 1% increments
2. Pump Speed control
3. Heater control
4. With ScreenLogic you can control things via your PC, phone, or tablet.
5. Automated valve control (assumes you have a water feature or spa)
6. Scheduling can be done at your PC rather then at the pump.
7. Automated light control and color (assumes you have a color LED lights)
Really what exactly is painful? What are you expecting automation will do? You will still have to monitor the chem levels and adjust the SWG output to the conditions (Temp, bather load, etc) And that should not be any more difficult that turning a knob. I find once things stabilize after opening the pool at the beginning of the year I really only have to test once a week.I feel like if I had it automated then I can find that sweet spot for run time, etc to better maintain my water chemistry. Right now its kinda painful.
1. I'm trying to learn. So please be nice..Really what exactly is painful? What are you expecting automation will do? You will still have to monitor the chem levels and adjust the SWG output to the conditions (Temp, bather load, etc) And that should not be any more difficult that turning a knob. I find once things stabilize after opening the pool at the beginning of the year I really only have to test once a week.
My SWG is automated by a simple timer as Jim suggests.
CBs are not built to go through many cycles as an on/off switch. Best way to "turn off" your IC40 is to use the LESS button and lower the SWG % to 0. When you want to turn it on use the MORE button and raise the SWG %.2. or use the circuit breaker to shut off power to my SWG,