This may be more of a testing issue but I was hoping to get some input. I have used the salt drop test from TFKits for years now. It's always read within a few hundred ppm of my IC40 reading. Ever since having my new pool my IC has consistently read about 800 ppm less than my drop test. I bought a new refill at the beginning of the year so my reagents should be good. Today pentair sent out a rep to check out my cell. He used a digital meter and said that the IC is really close and my drop test is off. What are you guys using and what are your thoughts? Appreciate it.
Salt Reading Taylor IC40
- Thread starter Djones5548
- Start date
D,
I would bet on the Taylor drop test every time as being correct.
That said, I find that the salt test works better for me when using an automatic stirrer, like the speed stir or smart stir..
The only important thing is to make the cell happy, so you could just increase the actual salt level in the pool.
Where do you normally try to run the salt level??
The tolerance for the salt test is +/- 500 ppm...
Thanks,
Jim R.
I would bet on the Taylor drop test every time as being correct.
That said, I find that the salt test works better for me when using an automatic stirrer, like the speed stir or smart stir..
The only important thing is to make the cell happy, so you could just increase the actual salt level in the pool.
Where do you normally try to run the salt level??
The tolerance for the salt test is +/- 500 ppm...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hello,
Yes, I use the speedstir. I usually shoot for around 3800. I'm currently reading 3600 on drop but pentair and the pool guys meter are reading 2900.
Yes, I use the speedstir. I usually shoot for around 3800. I'm currently reading 3600 on drop but pentair and the pool guys meter are reading 2900.
gingrbredman
Gold Supporter
- Jun 10, 2020
- 732
- Pool Size
- 11200
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I use the speed stir, at the beginning of the season, my cell was reading 2,800, my test was always 3,200. Always. Until we had some splash out, and some evaporation, eventually had to add some salt this year to get back to 3,200 and now my Pentair app is telling me 5,150. I was consistent in my testing last year, even ordered new reagents for this year, and have been just as consistent.
The problem you may run into is your cell may stop producing chlorine because it thinks the salt is too low, when in fact it is not. Have read about that more than a few times around here. I'm lucky in my cell thinks it is higher, but think you will find the testing method of the Taylor salt test is not off by 800 ppm.
Have you opened up the cell to take a look at what is inside, or did the Pentair rep do this? I wouldnt rush into a acid bath just yet, but maybe a rinse to rule out any objects inside?
I agree with Jim, I'll best on my testing being accurate over a digital meter that who knows when was calibrated last.
The problem you may run into is your cell may stop producing chlorine because it thinks the salt is too low, when in fact it is not. Have read about that more than a few times around here. I'm lucky in my cell thinks it is higher, but think you will find the testing method of the Taylor salt test is not off by 800 ppm.
Have you opened up the cell to take a look at what is inside, or did the Pentair rep do this? I wouldnt rush into a acid bath just yet, but maybe a rinse to rule out any objects inside?
D,
Did you and the Pentair guy both get your sample from about two feet below the surface of the water?
I would not think the drop test would be that far off..
Just to be sure... You are stopping when the color initially changes to salmon color..? Basically, as the drops go into the test tube, the color will kind of flash to salmon and then immediately return to milky... You should stop counting the first time the color changes to salmon and does not change back... the color will get darker if you keep adding drops, but the stop point is when it initially changes to salmon and stays that way.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Did you and the Pentair guy both get your sample from about two feet below the surface of the water?
I would not think the drop test would be that far off..
Just to be sure... You are stopping when the color initially changes to salmon color..? Basically, as the drops go into the test tube, the color will kind of flash to salmon and then immediately return to milky... You should stop counting the first time the color changes to salmon and does not change back... the color will get darker if you keep adding drops, but the stop point is when it initially changes to salmon and stays that way.
Thanks,
Jim R.
gingrbredman
Gold Supporter
- Jun 10, 2020
- 732
- Pool Size
- 11200
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You can see in this video (not the best test method, I admit), right about the 1:20 mark he begins testing for salt. Right about the 4:17 mark he puts in the last drop that changes the color.
After watching that video again, I see how spoiled I am with the speed stir.
After watching that video again, I see how spoiled I am with the speed stir.
I appreciate all the input. Yes, I am stopping the drop test right on the first change of color.
The cell looks perfect and clean inside, the rep checked too and said everything looked good even the flow sensor that has a tendency to crack.
As long as the cell works its inconvenient but not a huge problem. The problem was that it dropped to 3400 on my test and was 2750 on the cell and it stopped producing. That was what irritated me to the point I called pentair. I guess I'll just keep doing what I'm doing but make a point to check the pentair reading more frequently to make sure it's not too low.
The cell looks perfect and clean inside, the rep checked too and said everything looked good even the flow sensor that has a tendency to crack.
As long as the cell works its inconvenient but not a huge problem. The problem was that it dropped to 3400 on my test and was 2750 on the cell and it stopped producing. That was what irritated me to the point I called pentair. I guess I'll just keep doing what I'm doing but make a point to check the pentair reading more frequently to make sure it's not too low.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,364
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your Intellicenter should be sending you an Alert if the salinity drops below 2800 ppm. It should operate down to 2600 ppm.
I did not receive any alerts but was able to find the alert settings and turn them on. I appreciate that information and the levels that activate them. I'll stick with my drop test but monitor better with the alerts on. Thanks for the help as always!
BowserB
Silver Supporter
- Jul 29, 2018
- 777
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
From the IC40 manual, ideal salt concentration is 3600ppm. OK range is 3600-4500. Unit will turn off below 2600ppm. The manual points out that the built in sensor is accurate only within +/- 500ppm. That's quite a range--1,000ppm from low error to high error by the built in sensor! Also note what Jim pointed out (which is also on the K-1766 instruction card) as to when to stop dropping. It's really easy to add one or two more drops than you should and fool yourself that the salt concentration is higher than it actually is.
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