Yes, I've read that. Think I've just about got the clear water part. But as I said, nothing is said about how to get CC down... so I asked. You answered. All good.
Reviving out of service pool: FG & deck Refresh
- Thread starter dianedebuda
- Start date
CYA is back to 30 again.
After the DE slurry debacle yesterday, thinking again about an AG skimmer. Wondering if it seems likely that I could stick a 1-1/2" vac hose end into the 1-1/2" suction pipe at the bottom of the current skimmer and route that into the pool for the AG skimmer. Would have to be able to add water from hose bib to prime - just like I've got set up for the current sucker pipe. Advantage of this setup would be that I wouldn't have a trip-hazard pipe running across the deck and that I can use the existing main/skimmer Jandy to control flow. Problem with the existing skimmer is that at the "static", non-leak water level, the skimmer basket is covered by an inch of water, but when turned on, there's not enough water flow available across the bottom ledge of the skimmer faceplace ... so get a lot of air sucked in.
Probably will wait until the meeting with the fiberglass repair guy on Wed to do anything about it. If they can start work soon, may not have a need to clean filter before that since water is clear at present.
Just thinking, there's a good chance that I'm not going to get in the pool at all this season.
Temp's dropping and I'm not a fan of water < 84°. It's likely that the pool will be drained for structural repair and the water from my well isn't exactly warm. Oh well, pool looks nice and can't wait to watch the robot entertain me.
After the DE slurry debacle yesterday, thinking again about an AG skimmer. Wondering if it seems likely that I could stick a 1-1/2" vac hose end into the 1-1/2" suction pipe at the bottom of the current skimmer and route that into the pool for the AG skimmer. Would have to be able to add water from hose bib to prime - just like I've got set up for the current sucker pipe. Advantage of this setup would be that I wouldn't have a trip-hazard pipe running across the deck and that I can use the existing main/skimmer Jandy to control flow. Problem with the existing skimmer is that at the "static", non-leak water level, the skimmer basket is covered by an inch of water, but when turned on, there's not enough water flow available across the bottom ledge of the skimmer faceplace ... so get a lot of air sucked in.
Probably will wait until the meeting with the fiberglass repair guy on Wed to do anything about it. If they can start work soon, may not have a need to clean filter before that since water is clear at present.
Just thinking, there's a good chance that I'm not going to get in the pool at all this season.
Temp's dropping and I'm not a fan of water < 84°. It's likely that the pool will be drained for structural repair and the water from my well isn't exactly warm. Oh well, pool looks nice and can't wait to watch the robot entertain me.I mean, you’re legally obligated to jump in at least once before shutting it down
You put so much work and effort into this (which is both amazing and inspirational, mind you), it would be a shame not to enjoy it once before winterizing.
I like your thinking about the skimmer adapter. What kind of above ground skimmer are you looking at?
You have come SO far! All of the work and effort is amazing and awe inspiring!
Kim
You have come SO far! All of the work and effort is amazing and awe inspiring!
Kim
I mean I’m not a professional or anything, but I’m pretty sure that’s more than just a crack.
Probably something that would be easy to adjust skimmer height to water level like Amazon: Bestway skimmer rather than a through-the-wall style.
Only if said jump would provide a positive thermal experience.I mean, you’re legally obligated to jump in at least once before shutting it down
I'm in the South, so we don't shut down/winterize. I've got solar panels to put up, but won't have time to deal with them until late winter/early spring (Feb-Mar).Right... Forgot about the TX thing Here in Jersey pools are being closed as I type this!
Here in Jersey pools are being closed as I type this!I know - jimmythegreek is so busy that it's like a gift when he can spare even a split second here.Right... Forgot about the TX thing
I can so see you finding a way to make that neat skimmer work for you!!! Good find!
Don’t forget to go to Pentair’s website to register the robot and apply for the $50 rebate.
SLAM day 14, Sat 9/19
AM
filter on
07:30 FC 13. ; ok
12:00 FC 12. ; ok
16:00 FC 11. ; add 1/4 gal LC [tot LC=57.3 gal]
brushed pool
19:30 FC 127.5; ok CC=.5
-----------------
Glad I'm taking pics - thought deep to main was clear yesterday, but much clearer today.
Probably could try an OCLT tonight, but brushed up a lot of stuff late, so don't expect anything to come of it.
AM
filter on
07:30 FC 13. ; ok
12:00 FC 12. ; ok
16:00 FC 11. ; add 1/4 gal LC [tot LC=57.3 gal]
brushed pool
19:30 FC 127.5; ok CC=.5
-----------------
Glad I'm taking pics - thought deep to main was clear yesterday, but much clearer today.
Probably could try an OCLT tonight, but brushed up a lot of stuff late, so don't expect anything to come of it.
THat IS clear! BUT it is not TFP clear yet..............it IS getting there but it will be so clear you can see the heads/tails of a coin! Think of when you fill your tub with water..........it will be that clear by the time you are done with it!
So does your main drain (drain on the bottom of the pool) work?
So does your main drain (drain on the bottom of the pool) work?
Is actually clearer than pic shows and I'd say it's bathtub clear ... if I could remember that far back (I'm a shower gal
). Yes, main works & is open as of about 3 days ago. If fiberglass repair drains pool to fix, not going to matter. 
True but I was thinking of finding a way to use it to add DE to your filter! A large pvc pipe with a funnel (with small part cut off so it fit inside the pipe) to pour the DE down to the main drain that will take it to the filter!!!
I think it would be almost impossible to wrangle such a pipe to get and stay over the main since it's 8 ft deep and 8 ft from each of the 3 edges. Can't even get the vac head to "stay" there. Then trying to pour slurry down it?
Thanks for thinking out of the box though.
Just finished reading through the whole thing the last few days. Impressive attitude.
I’m not a fiberglass repair expert, and certainly not a pool fiberglass repair expert but I know a guy in New Jersey that does large boat repairs and his pictures sometimes look very similar to your issues. If there’s a lake or river in the area with boat dock or storage you might try asking around for one of those guys that does boat repair to take a look. I’ve also done some much smaller repair work with fiberglass structures so I at least have a general idea of what they’re up against. After fixing whatever caused the crack, they typically grind it all the way down at the cracked area and feather it out a good distance on each side. Then lay in progressive layers of matte and resin. I’m not sure if they would use fiberglass chop on something that small. I’m sure having thousands of gallons of water on it complicates the process and I’m oversimplifying it.
Another problem you have is that any pool repair contractor knows he has to warranty the repair for some amount of time. If the cause of the cracks isn’t resolved, they may not want to repair it just because of the potential for warranty repairs later and lawsuits if it cracks again.
If I wanted to save the pool, I think I’d start by checking for settling of the concrete near the cracks maybe just with a contractors level to see if you can track what happened to cause the crack. Once I had a good guess of its cause, I’d remove the concrete decking at the area near the cracks and try to confirm my theory and take a closer look at the back side of the pool wall. Finding someone to break up and haul off a bit of concrete shouldn't be too difficult and would give any pool repair contractor a bit of peace of mind that the issue is fixable and be more comfortable making a repair. If the pool structure really does turn out to be “done”, the concrete decking you removed wouldn’t have been a waste of money/effort either way.
Hope that’s of some use, interested to see what happens next.
I’m not a fiberglass repair expert, and certainly not a pool fiberglass repair expert but I know a guy in New Jersey that does large boat repairs and his pictures sometimes look very similar to your issues. If there’s a lake or river in the area with boat dock or storage you might try asking around for one of those guys that does boat repair to take a look. I’ve also done some much smaller repair work with fiberglass structures so I at least have a general idea of what they’re up against. After fixing whatever caused the crack, they typically grind it all the way down at the cracked area and feather it out a good distance on each side. Then lay in progressive layers of matte and resin. I’m not sure if they would use fiberglass chop on something that small. I’m sure having thousands of gallons of water on it complicates the process and I’m oversimplifying it.
Another problem you have is that any pool repair contractor knows he has to warranty the repair for some amount of time. If the cause of the cracks isn’t resolved, they may not want to repair it just because of the potential for warranty repairs later and lawsuits if it cracks again.
If I wanted to save the pool, I think I’d start by checking for settling of the concrete near the cracks maybe just with a contractors level to see if you can track what happened to cause the crack. Once I had a good guess of its cause, I’d remove the concrete decking at the area near the cracks and try to confirm my theory and take a closer look at the back side of the pool wall. Finding someone to break up and haul off a bit of concrete shouldn't be too difficult and would give any pool repair contractor a bit of peace of mind that the issue is fixable and be more comfortable making a repair. If the pool structure really does turn out to be “done”, the concrete decking you removed wouldn’t have been a waste of money/effort either way.
Hope that’s of some use, interested to see what happens next.
My Oh My, you must really be bored and grasping at straws for entertainment.
There are boat repair places around and I'm sure that they could do a fine job on the cracks. The problem is that the cause of the cracks has to be resolved. I had the pool resurfaced 12 years ago and then the cracks were only 3"-4". The resurfacer patched them, but they reappeared a few months later. Perhaps he didn't do the best patch job, but I doubt that. I have a company coming on Wed to take a look; their web site shows that this is the type of work that is their bread and butter. Cross your fingers for me.-----------------
Looks like I'm going to have to deal with some wind & rain from tropical storm Beta tonight thru Wed. Nothing like at the Gulf coast, but does makes cleaning the pool today seem pointless.
Only gave it a lick & a promise. If we get the amount of rain that is forecast, won't have a problem using the skimmer for a couple of days. And just a testing kit tidbit for a SLAM newbie trying to decide whether get the the XL version, I used up the first bottle of R-0871 FAS/DPD Reagent yesterday, SLAM day 14.
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8' Deep??? Oh yeah my pvc idea would not be easy to do if at all possible!
Hold on to your hat for that storm. Does not look like fun at all
Hold on to your hat for that storm. Does not look like fun at all
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Did you get a chance to do an OCLT? Things are looking GREAT! Well done... keep it up. I know you will...
I always just added DE to the skimmer when I had a DE filter. You can always just run a hose in there if you need more flushing power if you are not getting enough from the spill over from the pool.
Well, yes and no. Even though my FC & CC looked good last night, I expected that my late brushing would churn up some chlorine activity and didn't test until a half hour past sunrise this morning; FC lost 3.5 ppm.
Tried that, but not enough flow even with the hose.