Reviving out of service pool: Finishing pad rebuild; deck cleaning

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
409
Austin TX
The right side after the initial electrial:
Pool Pad build right - 01 pre pool plumbing.jpg

Added jet air line (lt blue), some irrigation valves (left one is pool water filler), and prepped pipe entry/exits:
Pool Pad build right - 03 before entry-exit Jandys.jpg
Added Returns/Jet plumbing & SWG:
Pool Pad build right - 04 electric, entry-exit plumbing & SWG.jpg
Closer look at the plumbing:
Pool Pad build right - 05 entry-exit plumbing & SWG.jpg
Replaced SWG with dummy & connected Returns module:
Pool Pad build right - 06 returns closeup.jpg

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Doing static water test now. 🤞If ok, run the pump and pray for no leaks. :kim: While waiting, going to scoop pool since the string of 100°+ days has caused some leaves to fall & don't want to start SLAM with 'em in the pool.

Still have some pad work (bonding wire, wireless setup, couple of deck boards to the filter to make it easier to walk, roof/shade, and build manual vac module, but the list is getting smaller. :)
 
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mguzzy

Gold Supporter
Jul 8, 2015
2,388
OV, CA
YES! The color coding makes it so easy to figure out what is what! 🌈 🌈 🌈 Hecka better that trying to read the faded Sharpie notes on mine! ;)
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
409
Austin TX
So far, 3 small leaks: threaded joint at Water Bonder, small plug in back of multivalve and loose union connection for solar return.
Pool Pad build - static water test leaks.jpg
Nuts :rolleyes: ... but shouldn't be too hard to fix.
 
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markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
2,598
Atlanta Ga
Wouldn't have thought of doing it in such a tight space without them. BUT, one of the leaks was a union and the Water Bonder thread leak may well have been caused by turning the union collar. 😣 :LOL:
I had a union on a valve that leaked and after months of scratching my head I saw a high spot that kept the O Ring from seating fully. Hopefully you got all your fixed
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
409
Austin TX
Reviewing the SLAM procedure. Ph target: 7.2 to 7.5 first. Then CYA 30 to 40. Next starts the FC/CC chase with chlorine.

Question 1: The swamp posts always ask for a full set of tests, but don't see the TA or CH values being used for SLAM. Need to do those now?

Question 2: Target speed for VSF pump? Defaults on pump are 750, 1500, 2350 and 3110. Thinking 1500.

Jeepers, I need to buy DE. :oops:
 

Brett S

Well-known member
Mar 15, 2019
709
Orlando
I think TA and CH would be more of a nice to know than a necessity before you start your SLAM. The only potential benefit that I can see to knowing your CH ahead of time would be if it was so high that it would require a drain and refill to resolve. At that point you’d probably want to drain it while it’s still in the swamp state so you don’t spend a lot of time and money cleaning up the swamp to just have to turn around and drain all your newly cleaned water.

Edited to add, since adjusting the pH also affects the alkalinity it would be good to know the alkalinity if you need to make a big adjustment to get the pH into the 7.2 to 7.5 range, just to ensure that you aren’t getting the alkalinity too far out of whack with your pH adjustment.
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
409
Austin TX
I think TA and CH would be more of a nice to know than a necessity before you start your SLAM.
Thanks for thoughts. I was just mostly curious why those two were seemingly ignored in the SLAMS that I've seen. I'd planned doing them just to see if anything's really changed since my June 1st tests.

For grins, ran the tests so I could determine what other pre-SLAM chems I'll need.
--No chlorine
--Ph 8.2 or above
--CYA 0
--CH 150
--TA 140
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So far, no leaks on the static water test. Looks like I'm gonna fire up the pump in a couple of hours. (y)
 

mguzzy

Gold Supporter
Jul 8, 2015
2,388
OV, CA
Given the swampy-ness of your water.. have you figured out if its cheaper to drain and refill compared to Cl, reagents and lots of time... If I recall water is cheap in your neck of the woods.
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
409
Austin TX
Not knowing that the pad rebuild was going to take me forever, I bought a lot of chlorine back in June, so might as well go ahead now even though it's "aged". And since it's a fiberglass pool, not excited about draining any more than I already did (about 18") to replace the ball valves with Jandys.
 

mguzzy

Gold Supporter
Jul 8, 2015
2,388
OV, CA
Just sayin...' sometimes its quicker and more cost effective to drain and refill.. than to try and kill everything in there. As I recall there was a lot of stuff down at the bottom when you first started your adventure 13 pages or so ago... its usually a pretty quick process if you rent a submersible pump and refill with every hose you have. But its your call... you know what you are dealing with better than any of us ;) SLAM away...

Once you start the SLAM you won't even be checking pH as the pH test is inaccurate at SLAM FC levels. So usually you just get a set of numbers so you know where things are at the beginning..bring your CYA to 30, pH to 7.2 and then SLAM away! Do your FC test with a 10ml sample, you don't need the precision of a 25ml sample, especially in the beginning. Brush brush brush and make sure the nooks a crannies aren't hiding algae. And clean your filter frequently. you will be sucking up a lot of dead gunk.. and it will clogged the works.
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
409
Austin TX
As I recall there was a lot of stuff down at the bottom when you first started your adventure 13 pages or so ago... its usually a pretty quick process if you rent a submersible pump and refill with every hose you have.
Yes, there WAS a lot of muck down there. End analysis when I finished the scooping (before starting the pad rebuild) was equivalent to removal of a 6 ft x 6 ft x 6 ft cube. Scooped most of the pool today and not too much - pretty good after not being a net wrangler for a couple of months. :) And as for "every hose", we're on a well...
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
409
Austin TX
Small leak when pump running at a threaded connection. Will have to add another union to fix. With painting, can't put back together and run pump tomorrow. Life busy Wed, so no SLAM start until at least Thursday now. :cry: Sure hope I can get this sucker done before weather breaks to cooler temps & I have to start roof work. :drown:
 

Flying Tivo

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2017
1,895
Monterrey, NL, Mexico
You might consider running the filter in recirculating mode for a few days until all algae is dead. Then you can start filter mode, that will let you concentrate on maintaining slam levels instead of cleaning filters.
 
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