Resurfaced Pool... Scared to Death

Aug 12, 2018
37
New Orleans, LA
In-ground, 24,000 gallon, Gunite. I just (tuesday the 25th) re-plastered... i.e., stripped old plaster (3 layers) to gunite. The Ph keeps creeping up... Thur, brought it from 8.2 to 7.4... Friday 8.0 to 7.4.. this morning 7.8. On Thursday the pool water testing place instructed me to put 2 quarts of muriatic in and wait 3 hours (did not mention re-dosing). But it took 6 quarts and 9 hours on Thursday. Friday 2 more quarts and three hours... and, this morning I added 1 quart... waiting for it to saturate the pool now. So, thats 9 quarts *so far* Is this normal???

thanks

dennis
 
It is very normal for new plaster to push the pH up as it cures. We need all of your test results to we can see the whole picture. There are other factors that play in with the pH.

Like @cfherrman said you really need your own test kit. We have seen wrong tests done by the pool stores over and over. I, myself, ruined my first pool listening to the pool store :( It was not until I found TFP that I would even consider getting another pool! Look in my siggy for the one I think is the best bang for the buck!

Kim:kim:
 
We need a full set of test results, especially pH & TA together.

Rising pH is a normal part of plaster curing.

Calculate your CSI using PoolMath. During the first 28 days you want to keep your CSI between 0 and +0.5 for the best dense plaster curing.

Were you given a startup guide for the first 28 days of your plaster?
 
We just don't trust pool store testing or advice. We want you to have one of the trusted drop based test kits for your own use as no one is going to care for your pool and the test results more than you. Invest in a kit so you'll protect your investment best.

We need to know:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
to know how healthy this water is both for swimmers (when its ready for that) and for the curing plaster. We don't want you to make any mistakes that will shorten the lifespan on your new plaster.

Please check out : tftestkits.net for two approved test kits to choose from. I personally prefer the TF-100 (best buy!).

Maddie :flower:
 
Just got back to this... I have the Taylor K-2005 ...and, I'll have to do more testing today but here is what I have as of late yesterday afternoon.
I am new to this... so, please bare with me. While fresh water historically... I intend to install salt water system 30 days after re-plaster (as recommended by the installer).

Chlorine: 0.3 (using Kem-tech liquid chlorine)
Alkalinity: 110
PH: 7.8
Hardness: 290 (added hardener yesterday it was 100)
CYA: 80 (this is what perpetrated the re-plaster cya 400+++) although a re-plaster was totally in order aside from CYA.

I have *not* shocked yet.

thank you

Update: The pool cleared considerably overnight (mostly plaster dust). I had brushed twice daily but it was not clearing... yesterday, I dropped the polaris 280 in for about 6 hours and it did a *much* better job of suspending the plaster dust (particles) than I could accomplish with brushing.

PH: @ 7.6 more testing later.
 
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Get the fas-dpd upgrade for your 2005 and you will be good to go with testing(makes a FC test a drop test)

Keep at the testing pH as new plaster rises pH, use the acid demand if you can tell the pH or you think it's at 8 or higher. Use pool math or the acid demand test to tell how much acid you need to add, always add it in front of a return with a small stream, brush that area after just in case
 
Here is a like to the test Casey talked about: FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test This will finish up your test kit. Now if you want to get really fancy you can get the Speed Stir! Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer It does the mixing for you and is SO much fun to use LOL

I am also going to share our plaster start up link: Trouble Free Pool

I am also going to share a set of links I put together for new pool owners. While you are not new to pools you are new to TFP. We want your pool to be as Trouble Free as possible. These links will show the the basics of what we do here:

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Trouble Free Pool

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Now until you get your SWG going you will need to use something to add FC to your pool. What are your plans? Do you know how your CYA got so high? My guess is you were using tablets/pucks and some powder "shock" all of which also adds CYA aka "stabilizer". Over time it builds up and the only way to remove it is to remove and replace some of the water.

Kim:kim:
 
While fresh water historically... I intend to install salt water system 30 days after re-plaster (as recommended by the installer).

Chlorine: 0.3 (using Kem-tech liquid chlorine)
Alkalinity: 110
PH: 7.8
Hardness: 290 (added hardener yesterday it was 100)
CYA: 80 (this is what perpetrated the re-plaster cya 400+++) although a re-plaster was totally in order aside from CYA.

I dropped the polaris 280 in for about 6 hours and it did a *much* better job of suspending the plaster dust (particles) than I could accomplish with brushing.

When was water put into your pool?

All startup guides recommend you do not used wheeled cleaners in the pool for the first 28 days.

And how did you get CYA 80 in new water so quickly?
 
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One (1) week. The wheeled device was *suspended* from the diving board (I still dive) the tail and filter removed and @ about 18" inches from the bottom. The difference in being able to keep the plaster *flowing* after brushing was amazing... the pool is now crystal clear.

I am new to this... and, I may (or, may not... probably *not*) be performing the test(s) accurately. It has rained here all day and I have not had the opportunity to retest as planned. Additionally, I am remodeling the upstairs of the house and running a full time business... I certainly wish I could dedicate all my efforts to the pool... but ...alas, I am but one.
 

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