Replumbing and SWCG Log (was Cracked Chlorine Feeder)

rumcglot

Well-known member
Feb 13, 2019
55
Texas
Hi Everyone,

I got a bit rambunctious trying to unscrew the top of my chlorine feeder and ended up cracking the output pipe. Here's the crack.

Photo Feb 29, 1 28 02 PM.jpg

I can't imagine there's any way to fix the crack. Originally, I was planning on replacing it, but I'm not sure how to go about that even. The feeder screws into fitting on either side, but I don't see any way to unscrew it without cutting a pipe somewhere.

I've decided now not to replace it. I hadn't been using it anyway and really just thought of it as something to use when on vacation or away. Now, I've decided I want to remove it and ultimately install a liquid chlorine feeder. I've been reading on this forum about setting those up. That will satisfy both the everyday usage and keep everything in good condition when I'm not around to add liquid chlorine.

I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the system repaired so that I can get my pump running again. But I want to do it such that I can easily add a automatic liquid feeder soon. Ideally, I'd also keep it where I can add an acid feed system too.

Here's my total setup.

Photo Mar 01, 9 20 08 AM.jpgPhoto Mar 01, 9 19 59 AM.jpg

On the left hand side, I can cut the pipe at the chlorine feeder and have plenty of pipe left attach a union to. On the right, though, the feeder goes directly to the elbow. It looks like I need to go all the way to the multi-port valve and rebuild the section with the check valve to. Anybody see another way?

It looks like the grey piece is screwed into the multi-port valve. So the original install must have screwed that in, and then started glueing everything together from there. Does that sound right?

What should I install to replace the feeder so that I can add a liquid feeder?

Thanks for your help and ideas.
 

YippeeSkippy

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 17, 2012
13,041
Evans, Georgia
Absolutely agree with Wireform. SWG is the way to go. You could cut that puck doohickie out and with a few PVC adjustments put a SWG cell right in there. It always is the last thing in the line to the pool. In fact, from what I see it might be a good time to re-do all the PVC to clean it up if you wanted to.

A SWG is far easier to use when you're away on trips.....it just chugs along. I've been able to leave for up to 17 days and return to a clear, clean pool (covering helps of course).

Maddie :flower:
 
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Hootz

Bronze Supporter
Feb 5, 2018
187
Rogers, AR
worst case scenario is to go from the threaded fitting at the multi port valve...you won't need the check valve if you remove the chlorine feeder.
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
1,258
OV, CA
@rumcglot Yeah, I would put the money you will be spending anyway on a new tab dispenser toward a SWG. As @Hootz says, start your new piping from the threaded fitting at the MP valve and have at it. You will get lots of help here if you are a DYI'er. My biggest concern will be retaining the little plant with the berries on it. It provides such an effective visual shield to all the pool equipment. ;)
 

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta

Silver Supporter
Apr 10, 2018
1,425
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
If you install a union or threaded coupler next to the 3-way valve you can swap out whatever you decide to replace it with in the future. You don't have much remaining pipe to sacrifice on that side.

You might be able to save the coupler, check valve and two 90s coming off the multiport by using an "inside slip connector". These couplers are designed to slip into Sch 40 pipe. Assuming the first chlorinator coupler is joined with a section of Sch 40, you cut between the 90 and black coupler and slip in the inside coupler.
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
1,216
Spring Valley, NY
If you install a union or threaded coupler next to the 3-way valve you can swap out whatever you decide to replace it with in the future. You don't have much remaining pipe to sacrifice on that side.

You might be able to save the coupler, check valve and two 90s coming off the multiport by using an "inside slip connector". These couplers are designed to slip into Sch 40 pipe. Assuming the first chlorinator coupler is joined with a section of Sch 40, you cut between the 90 and black coupler and slip in the inside coupler.
If you do away with the tab dispenser then get rid of the check valve too. SWCG doesn't need a check valve either. If you go with SWCG get the Circupool RJ45 and call it done.
 

rumcglot

Well-known member
Feb 13, 2019
55
Texas
Everyone, thanks for the advice. I'm looking into installing a SWCG now. That was a really good idea. :) Except that it lead to thinking I should install a 2-speed pump so I can run it longer with the SWCG for cheaper. And, of course, that means a more complex timer setup, etc...

Now, I'm going to have someone come by and bid it since I don't know when I'll be able to get to all of that. I'm also working on convincing my wife that salt water is the way to go.

Oh, the little plant with the berries is a Nandina. They don't need much to grow around here.
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
1,258
OV, CA
Everyone, thanks for the advice. I'm looking into installing a SWCG now. That was a really good idea. :) Except that it lead to thinking I should install a 2-speed pump so I can run it longer with the SWCG for cheaper. And, of course, that means a more complex timer setup, etc...

Now, I'm going to have someone come by and bid it since I don't know when I'll be able to get to all of that. I'm also working on convincing my wife that salt water is the way to go.

Oh, the little plant with the berries is a Nandina. They don't need much to grow around here.
Excellent. you will absolutely love an SWG. Honestly I would buy a new pump if you have a reason to.. is your existing one old? Showing signs or wear? You will reap the benefit of a lower cost to run.
And no expenses should be spared to save the "Charlie Brown" Nandina hedge you have there. ;)
 

Rattus Suffocatus

Silver Supporter
Jun 5, 2019
920
Corona de Tucson, AZ
I am seriously considering a SWCG myself. But it's been really pretty easy to do LQ, so I need to be talked into it. I think that is a great idea if you can afford it, however, and if I started traveling a lot I would definitely do it, since I doubt if I will ever get the rest of the slugs in my household trained in maintaining the pool (though I could get them to put in x number of liquid ounces of LQ per day though which is probably okay up to two weeks or so)...

For non-automation is everyone still recommending the Circupools? I need to start thinking about doing it in the next several weeks if I am going to.

But if you wanted to, even replacing the tab dispenser is cheap, I think they were running about $35-75 for a DIY one when I was looking to build the pool. That still might be easier than doing all of the plumbing if you were not going to change it out to something else and not put in a SWCG.
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
1,258
OV, CA
I am seriously considering a SWCG myself. But it's been really pretty easy to do LQ, so I need to be talked into it. I think that is a great idea if you can afford it, however, and if I started traveling a lot I would definitely do it, since I doubt if I will ever get the rest of the slugs in my household trained in maintaining the pool (though I could get them to put in x number of liquid ounces of LQ per day though which is probably okay up to two weeks or so)...

For non-automation is everyone still recommending the Circupools? I need to start thinking about doing it in the next several weeks if I am going to.

But if you wanted to, even replacing the tab dispenser is cheap, I think they were running about $35-75 for a DIY one when I was looking to build the pool. That still might be easier than doing all of the plumbing if you were not going to change it out to something else and not put in a SWCG.
Sure I'll talk you into it.:mrgreen:
-Can you afford it?.. Yes. Over the course of the life of the cell you will spend the same amount as Liquid chlorine, by most calculations. BUT if the conditions of your pool are right and the way you maintain the cell can extend its life.. then you will pay more for chlorine than the cost of the cell over its lifetime. Per the manufacturer my cell should not last more than about 5 years, but I got more than 9 out my first one.
-Do you have the time? If you have infinite amount of time on your hands (ie you're retired or you're living off your trust) and playing pool chemistry doesn't get boring, then the time saved maintaining the pool is a non factor. For me, in my real job, I bill hourly, and the amount of time I saved fussing with chems was a real calculable number. By that calculation I more than paid for the SWG in the first season.
-You save gas and time, going to the store to buy chlorine.. unless you need the exercise anyway curling gallon bottles of CL.
-Maintaining the other chems is easier... I wasn't expecting this one when I installed my SWG. but since it adds CL at a nice slow continuous pace whenever the pumps are running, I don't have the wild swings in the other chemistry numbers that I used to have when I dumped my allotment of chlorine in the pool. I found it was easier to maintain the pH, CYA, alkalinity and other stuff. In all honesty once I got the hang of it my pool season testing regime dropped to once or twice a month.
-Do you have sensitive skin? The CC that is irritating to the skin is broken down by the SWG.. My daughters eczema will attest to that.
-Its like swimming in a mild ocean. There is enough salinity to give the water a different feel. Some say its smoother...oooo ahh.
-You are not married to the pool. The SWG can run on its own for weeks. so you can go on vacations and think of other more important things to do, like posting on TFP.
-Lastly and most importantly you will be the envy of all the other poolies here at the TFP forums.

nuf said;)
 

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
1,550
Marrietta Ga
I am seriously considering a SWCG myself. But it's been really pretty easy to do LQ, so I need to be talked into it. I think that is a great idea if you can afford it, however, and if I started traveling a lot I would definitely do it, since I doubt if I will ever get the rest of the slugs in my household trained in maintaining the pool (though I could get them to put in x number of liquid ounces of LQ per day though which is probably okay up to two weeks or so)...

For non-automation is everyone still recommending the Circupools? I need to start thinking about doing it in the next several weeks if I am going to.

But if you wanted to, even replacing the tab dispenser is cheap, I think they were running about $35-75 for a DIY one when I was looking to build the pool. That still might be easier than doing all of the plumbing if you were not going to change it out to something else and not put in a SWCG.
I bought the edge40 after looking at a few different models. If it ever stops raining in Atlanta I will install it :)
 

Rattus Suffocatus

Silver Supporter
Jun 5, 2019
920
Corona de Tucson, AZ
Sure I'll talk you into it.

nuf said;)
I have been pretty lucky in that the pool so far has been VERY stable. I suspect that is because I went TFP two minutes after the pool start up guy left. That and most of my maintenance so far has been in the winter which does slow things down a bit. I am looking forward to the water temperature breaking 60F. Maybe soon. Everytime it has been close we get a cold snap.

However, being in AZ we are known to have creeping up CH and that has been my only real concern with a cell. I have all Hayward equipment, so I have been thinking of the Universal 40 since it also looks like the Hayward equipment it is supposed to replace, and probably would be easier to mount in the plumbing I have than the SJ series... I only have a 13K gallon pool so it should loaf. I will have to start seriously thinking about it.

I don't plan on ever automating so I am open to just about any brand a this point...

Thanks
 

rumcglot

Well-known member
Feb 13, 2019
55
Texas
Hi Everyone, thank you for the advice so far.

Now, I've bought a Hayward Aquarite 900 SWCG, and I'm working on installing it. Since I'm working on the pool equipment anyway, I bought a VSP also. That's a Hayward Tristar VS 900, 1.85 HP.

I had to cut the pipe to remove the old chlorine feeder and disconnect from the multiport valve. The SCWG won't fit in the same space so I'm working though the puzzle of getting the pipes back in place. Additionally, the new pump is considerably smaller than the old pump. Here's where I am now with the pump removed and the pipe from the multiport to the outflow pipe removed.

Photo Mar 18, 12 39 17 PM.new.jpg

I'm trying to not have to move the two Jandy valves in front. Also, I don't think I can physically move the sand filter and concrete pad. So those are kinda the restrictions I have. Since the new pump is shorter than the old, I'm planning to put some wood under it to bring the inlet to the same height as the current pipe. I am going to modify that pipe to make it a bit longer, 10" of straight is recommended in the pump instructions. I'm probably going to have to completely redo the plumbing from the pump up to the multivalve. I don't think I can save any of it.

For the SWCG, I'm not as sure what to do because of the space constraints. I'm might have to plumb down, back and then forward which seems way less than idea. Or I've considered going down and then to the side and back for a long straight length. Then, it would have to elbow right at the valve. Any ideas about how to make my plumbing simpler?

I'm thinking of installing a screw together (o-ring) union on each of the connections to the multivalve. That's going to take up more room, of course, but that seems like it would give me the most flexibility for fixing things in the future. Is that a good idea? I guess I'm also concerned that the screwed in connections to the multivalve might initially leak, and I wouldn't have any way to tighten them once it is all installed. A union will keep the multivalve connection free to turn.

Lastly, I have to replace that filter on the right. It has been broken since I moved in and leaks. It is on a long, straight pipe so I have no concerns about it, though.

I appreciate any ideas and recommendations the forum members have.
 

rumcglot

Well-known member
Feb 13, 2019
55
Texas
Since my previous post, I started putting things together. It has been all error and no comedy.

I put a couple of 2x4's under the new pump, and that raises it to the right height for the existing pumps from the pool. I realized that if I lined it up with the existing pipe to the filter, I'd have about the right spacing in front. So I just needed to extend the outflow pipe down to meet the pump and then extend the inflow line to take up the new distance. That way, I could keep the existing piping. Great! I glued a connector in place, a short piece of pipe, and the connector for the pump. Here's a later pic. Notice anything missing?

Photo Mar 18, 4 27 51 PM.resized.jpg

I forgot to install the screw ring before gluing it all together! I guess I have to order a Hayward replacement part now. That settled the question... I went ahead and cut out the whole section of pipe from the pump to the multivalve, and I'll have to rework it all.

Trying not to get discouraged, I started thinking about the SWCG again. I think I am going to put it in straight from the Janky valve to the pool. then, on the other side, I'm going to created a U (two elbows). The other side of the U will have an elbow pointing up and then another elbow into the multivalve. I'm not happy about having to put in a U, but this seems the most straightforward install. I'm worried about getting it measured and assembled without running into problems.

I went ahead and created one of the connections to the multivalve with the union I was talking about previously. It looks like this.
Photo Mar 18, 4 22 48 PM.resized.jpg

I want to put the same thing at the inlet from the pump, too. I'll have to extend it out a bit further so they don't clash.

This is the first time I'm using this blue glue. It went on a good bit sloppy here. Any best practices? The instructions say to wet the pipe twice. Seems like I'm ending up with too much. Also, I'm not using any primer. Should I be? The purple stuff? With just the glue, I'm having trouble getting the joints to seat completely without seizing, much less apply a "1/4 twist". This section of pipe in the photo was cut so that hardly any should be visible, but there's about 1/2" you can see. Makes me think I should subtract about 1/4" from the depth of the insertion when I am calculating the length of pipe to cut.