Replaced Salt Cell - Check System on - No Flow - Salt Off

May 30, 2008
Fairfield County, CT
Hi there,

I have been using this site for 5 years now and have always been successful with finding the info I needed in order to fix my problem. This time I need some extra help if anyone would be kind enough to share your input.

I replaced my salt cell (T-15) Hayward / Aquarite - I checked installation and my wiring etc. and all seems to be in order.

My check system light is on and despite adding a lot of salt my reading is still saying very low salt and stuck at 2200 ppm.

The system is saying NO FLOW and Chlorinator is off despite being set at 95% and super chlorinate activated - It is as if my system is not recognizing the new cell was installed. The software version is 2.6 so from what I read it sounded like I did not need to reconfigure anything.

I have gold line controls - and we have a spillover / spa feature

Water has been tested and balanced although I suspect we might have a high salt level now but can't be sure.

Does anyone have suggestions?


LifeTime Supporter
Aug 15, 2011
Re: Replaced Salt Cell - Check System on - No Flow - Salt Of

Aloha gtr1721! :wave:

Troubleshooting steps:
1) There is a way to "reset" the "Check System" light (I think by holding in the Diagnostic button for 3 seconds?) This might fix it up...
2) Verify that you actually have flow (returns of your pool) (as in, "Ooops, left a valve closed") :wink:
3) Your flow sensor is separate from the Turbo there any chance that something got lodged in it
4) Any chance wiring from flow sensor to control box got interrupted/disconnected?
5) If you don't trust the sensor, get a salt test kit and compare them. I love the Taylor one sold at TFtestkits:

Hope this helps!


HPC Jimmy

New member
Jun 6, 2012
Re: Replaced Salt Cell - Check System on - No Flow - Salt Of

This problem sounds very common to the Goldline system in the sense of the check system / flow / incorrect salt and the most infamous no cell power issue. There is an issue in the goldline PCB board and the factory soldered circuits giving up on the circuit board. Most of the factory reps will have you replace the cell, then replace the board, but if you are handy with a soldering iron and can follow instructions fairly well, this video has saved 5 customers over 500 bucks so far and takes around an hour to do. The thing to remember is once the Goldline senses a problem with the salt system it will continuously display incorrect salt readings and functions until the problem is resolved. Once resolved it should resume proper operation, and since it doesn't cost anything, you don't have to invest anything to troubleshoot. If you don't feel comfy doing this, and know a reputable pool service company, they should be able to watch the video and perform the task. Hope this helps and happy summer swimming to all! :cheers:

The Video

Jimmy Young
Pool Maintenance & Repair (didn't put my company because I don't know what the rules apply to these boards).
Fountain Hills, AZ
May 30, 2008
Fairfield County, CT
Re: Replaced Salt Cell - Check System on - No Flow - Salt Of

Thank you everyone for you feedback. I did confirm my flow switch is good and installed properly with the arrows in the direction of the flow of water to the pool. My local pool company came out to check it as well and even brought a new flow switch with them to confirm but when they hooked it up a low water temp sensor came on. I called Hayward and spent 20 minutes on the phone with them only to get disconnected when waiting to see if they would send the rep out. My salt cell is new and configured properly and all diagnostic issues check out OTHER than the fact my system still states the chlorinator is off and no flow. The pool is operating just fine and EVERYTHING else is in order. One interesting comment from the Hayward tech support was that my panel down by the pool should read that the chlorinator is off and no flow but it does not - ONLY my base unit (remote) and my handheld remote are displaying that the cell is off and not the panel for some reason. Hayward never did call me back after disconnecting me. No surprise. So if it is not a bad flow switch and the cell is brand new it sounds like the soldering suggestion would be next? Or did any of the new information spark other ideas I should check first? Should I just get my own new flow switch to be sure?