If people are replacing them, then they are not working. In which case, destroying them upon removal is not such a big deal. My video is pointed towards removing and reusing. Not physically possible to remove without destroying if you don’t have access to the inside of the pipe.
You should be able to unscrew the switch before the tab hits the lip of the hole. That should allow you to push in the tab so that you can remove the switch without damaging it. People remove them all the time without damaging them.
Yep. Watched that video a few days ago. They cut the tape just as they were about to pull the old one out. Then voila. It’s out but it’s not the same one because the one they tried to take Out fell apart. Cheers.
Don’t have video at work so cannot repost. It was deleted. So, if the “tee” is close to the cell, you could absolutely pull the cell to manipulate the sensor from inside enough to remove with destroying. Reason I made the video in the first place was to show people that it is virtually impossible to remove sensor without destroying it. Unless there is a trick that I couldn’t figure out. Kinda funny, those 2 videos linked in this thread cut the video at the same time. Anyway. Wonder how many people have unscrewed the sensor to troubleshoot only to notice the magnet was broken off, not realizing the magnet broke off upon removal not at some point in the past.
The thing was, I just expected it to twist out. Didn’t know it grabbed the inside like a fish hook. If I knew that before hand, I could have accessed from the inside and saved myself $200. This is the whole point of my thread. Saving someone else the same expense.
Knowing what I know now, if this was a new installation. Or if I installed these things for a living I would make this more serviceable. I would toss the Hayward tee in the trash. I would get a 2” slip x2” slip x 1” threaded tee. I would then use a 1/2” x 1” npt reducer. Then thread the sensor into the reducer. When I need to check the sensor for trouble shooting, I would twist out the reducer bushing with sensor attached. This would work providing the sensor was long enough to make up for the extra length of reducer bushing.
So, after watching video, you took that sensor out, without knowing it would do that.
I would think they would make that “T” with a tapered hole on the inside, (sort of like an upside down funnel) so that magnet wouldn’t get hung up.