Remote Heater and Pump Activation using Shelly

PoolBoyDave

Active member
Apr 4, 2016
32
Chardon, OH
First, a few pics of the re-plumbed equipment pad.
I bought and installed the heater last month, which required rerouting the pipes, and I added a bypass, because, why not.
If you ever find yourself needing to reuse a valve or 2, get a Reed Tool Extreme Ream. Gold.




Then, I didn't like having to squeeze behind the filter to get to the pump controls, so I bought one of the relocation kits, which didn't fit my pump (011018). Turns out, after tucking into it, remove the face retainer and carefully peel out the drive interface, and it is just a plain old 5 dollar serial cable back there. So I cut one off and bought a break out board and mounted it in a box where I could stand up and reach it.


Then on to the fun Stuff.
I bought the Intellicom interface for my Intelliflo pump and a couple Shelly relays (a Shelly 1 and a Shelly 2.5) and threw all that into the box too. Now, I can say 'Alexa, turn on the pool heater' and the Raypak fires up and sets the pump to an appropriate speed. When its time to shut it down, a second contact closes for 20 minutes on the shelly and runs the pump to cool down the heater. Also works from the phone, remotely. I included the wiring diagram, which is really quite simple. The trigger based automation is occurring in the Shelly units using their own 'actions'. This requires WiFi access to the equipment pad to function (hence the plastic enclosure, instead of mounting it all in the heater housing). My pad is 55 ft from my access point, and it seems to be working fine.



At the end of the day, I am about $250 into the automation. $160 of which is the ridiculously priced Intellicom interface. I could easily add one more Shelly ($15) to control the SWG and use their software for scheduling, but for now, this provides the one feature I wanted - turn on the heater from the office in the afternoon on those days I need a warm dip when I get home!

Cheers!
Dave
 

JoyfulNoise

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
May 23, 2015
17,379
Tucson, AZ
Nice job, especially relocating the IntelliFlo control.

My only critique is plumbing - it seems from your layout that you’ve bypasses both your heater and SWG. The SWG should be after the bypass as there isn’t really much need to bypass it. For winterization, you can pull the SWG out and either buy a prefabricated winterization tube from Pentair (again, ridiculously priced) or make your own (the threaded unions are “proprietary” but not uncommon and can be found online).
 

PoolBoyDave

Active member
Apr 4, 2016
32
Chardon, OH
Thanks!
You are right about the bypass, I thought it was a toss up. I have only ever used the bypass early in the spring when it was too cold for the SWG, which I do take out in the winter (which is why dressing that cable is a waste of time). Hopefully I never have a problem with that heater.....