Recent rains, chlorine out of wack, cloudy water

Aug 14, 2018
3
Sandown, NH
We recently had a lot of rain. I wasn't paying attention and pool turned cloudy white under the solar cover. I tested (with strips) and showed no chlorine. I put in a gallon 12.5% chlorine and checked several hours later. Still no chlorine registering. Put in 2 gallons. Tested later and showed 3ppm total and 0 free chlorine. Put in 2 more gallons, next day showing none. Went to pool store. Per their strip/computer suggestions, adjusted PH, alk, and calcium up a little bit. They recommended 3 lbs powdered 73% chlorine. Put that in tested next morning. Still no chlorine registering on the strips. Put in more powdered. Later, still no chlorine level on test strip. Called them and they suggest that I may have too much chlorine and it is bleaching the reagents on the strip. So that evening I used my TFTest kit and did chlorine drop test. Tests at .5 chlorine with 3ppm combined.

Pool store suggested being patient a couple of days and not adding anything, but it is middle of summer and I have a cloudy unswimmable pool.

That's a lot of chlorine I put in, I know, but is it possible it's skewing both the strips and the liquid test and is really high, or am I still low on chlorine level from whatever the rain put in the pool and made it cloudy? Haven't ever had this issue before (13 years, same pool).

Thanks!
 
Welcome to TFP!

When you let your chlorine get to 0ppm, stuff starts growing, and that stuff consumes chlorine rapidly. Test about an hour after you add. You should really SLAM Process your pool
 
Going on the last part of your 1st paragraph, "Tests at .5 chlorine with 3ppm combined.". If that means .5ppm "Free Chlorine" and 3ppm "Combined Chlorine", something is consuming your chlorine in your pool. If I am correct, FC + CC = TC. Your CC should not be above .5ppm at any given time (maybe a little closer to 1 under certain conditions). If I am interpreting your post right, I agree with JohnT that you are going to have to SLAM your pool.

DO NOT trust the pool store tests at all and test strips are called "guess strips" here. You really do need a proper test kit so you can take control of your pool completely and perform a proper SLAM!!!

Pool School here has all the info you would need to have a "Trouble Free Pool"!!!
 
Thank you both. You are right it is being consumed by something. Shocked it again last night, tested within 15-30 minutes and got a reading of about 5ppm. This morning, 0-1 ppm, even with the inline tablet chlorinator running all night.

Will continue to SLAM! The white cloudiness is starting to clear up a little bit. Tested high for phosphates this morning too, but I assume I should keep chlorinating and get that fixed before approaching the phosphate issue.
 
Thank you both. You are right it is being consumed by something. Shocked it again last night, tested within 15-30 minutes and got a reading of about 5ppm. This morning, 0-1 ppm, even with the inline tablet chlorinator running all night.

Will continue to SLAM! The white cloudiness is starting to clear up a little bit. Tested high for phosphates this morning too, but I assume I should keep chlorinating and get that fixed before approaching the phosphate issue.

You have no issue with phosphates. High phosphates are a made up issue that the pool industry came up with to sell more chemicals. Kind of like Hallmark invents holidays to sell greeting cards. Phosphates are an issue if your chlorine is low enough to allow algae growth, as phosphates feed algae, but as long as your chlorine stays above minimum, phosphates are irrelevant to whether or not you will get algae.
 
What’s your CYA level, from your TF-100 (not pool store test). Please don’t add anything other than Liquid Chlorine until you know that.
 
Take out the PUCKS! Its raising your CYA and with higher CYA (Conditioner, Stabilizer, Cyanuric Acid) you need to keep a higher SLAM level. For every 10 parts of FC you add 6 parts of CYA with pucks and its not any better with bags of shock.
 
I know it's been a while, but thanks to everyone. Once I followed the SLAM and started chlorinating according to the CYA chart (which was higher than I had been doing for both free and shock), the pool was crystal clear the rest of the season. Now to shutting down, I'll question whether phosphates should be addressed. Obviously there's going to be some time before winter this season and before opening next season that I won't be chlorinating. Will it make any difference, or just SLAM it in the spring if it's green and forget about phosphates and save my money?
 
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