Recent pool owner with algae problems in Phoenix AZ

chrisowen876

Member
Aug 27, 2022
19
Arizona
Hello, For the past two years I have been a pool owner here in Phoenix, with 10,000 gallons in ground pool, with constant algae problems.
I have never been able to get the test strips to read good despite using much chlorine tabs and muriatic acid. Also algicides.
I read that I need to use more Muratic Acid because of the very high water supply hardness. Also we get a lot of dust storms and leaves. Would that make hardness worse?
So yesterday I added two gallons of Muriatic Acid and 5 chlorine tabs. The algae is better but the pH look too far the other way now.
What chemicals should I be adding to my pool in the summer? Also what is the cheapest source of chlorine these days it is costing alot! eg liquid or shock or tabs etc
Thanks in advance.

test strip results.JPG
 
Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 / TFPRO or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
 
Test Strips simply do not provide the accuracy and consistency you need. Because of this we do not make chemical recommendations based on them.

1/2 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will add 5 ppm FC to your pool. Add it daily at a return with the pump running.
 
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Test strips are terribly inaccurate. If u have been consistently using stabilized chlorine (tabs or powder) then your cya is unlikely to be zero.
Use PoolMath to calculate how much liquid chlorine/bleach it will take to add 5ppm in your pool volume based on the strength% u are using
 
Thanks Guys I was beginning to suspect that these strips were pretty hopeless. There should be more info online about this!
For the past two weeks I have had 4 tabs in the pool and they didnt do too much.
Are you also saying that the stabilizer is not needed?

Assuming the pool was already in good shape what would you typically be adding every day or week to a 10000 gallon pool in Phoenix - besides 2.5 Gallons of FC a week?
 
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If you added 2.5 gallons of muriatic acid to a 10,000 gallon pool with your TA at 40ppm (although I doubt that) then your pH is likely well below 5.0. That’s incredibly bad for a plaster pool and any pool equipment you might have. I highly suggest you throw out those strips and get a cheap test kit with phenol red reagent for pH and test your water. If the pH is very low then you’ll need to add baking soda immediately to get it back up.
 
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Stabilizer is necessary to protect your fc but only at the recommended amounts.
FC/CYA Levels
The strips are not accurate so u shouldn’t make adjustments based on them - especially cya because if u add too much the only recourse is to exchange water to lower the cya level. Adding the 5ppm/day of liquid chlorine will just replenish what is lost each day & keep things from getting worse until u get your kit & have accurate data to go off of & can truly address your issues with more precision.
 

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The average algae free pool uses 2-4 ppm of fc/daily depending upon the season - it is generally on the higher side (4ppm) in sunny Arizona especially in the heat of the summer & on the lesser end during the shoulder seasons.
You must maintain the target fc level & not fall below minimum for your cya FC/CYA Levels at anytime to prevent algae & keep the water sanitary.
If u already have algae the remedy is the SLAM Process with liquid chlorine not maintenance levels of fc.
 
Is there any preference between LC and these bags of shock?
Liquid chlorine only adds fc

Cal hypo adds:
fc & calcium
The fc gets consumed daily but the calcium stays behind- too much calcium causes scaling

Trichlor & dichlor add :
fc, cya/stabilizer & are acidic so they lower ph.
The fc gets consumed but the stabilizer stays in the water meaning the necessary fc must continue to get higher & higher.
Also the ta & ph need to be closely monitored so they don’t fall too low.
 
Without accurate test results from one of the recommended test kits, there is really no telling what should or should not be added to your pool.
Test Kits Compared

Have a look thru Pool Care Basics and some of the videos at TFP-TV

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help for your specific pool without needing to ask each time for this info.
 
Hi 👋 fellow valley of the sun resident here. I don't see it mentioned here, but also make sure to check out the pool math app. It makes it really easy to ensure you're not over doing it with any one chemical. The basic version is free, which is more than adequate unless you want to store testing history, then it's a small cost to upgrade.

PoolMath
 
Job 1 this morning is going to Walmart or Home Depot and getting a basic drop test kit for Chlorine and pH. With your very large add of acid you stated in post #1, as @JoyfulNoise pointed out, you likely tanked your pH and TA. Getting that resolved will save your plaster and if you have a heater, save it too. Do that NOW.
 
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