Re-Work Pump Inlet Plumbing

kafox001

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2019
120
New England
Pool Size
23000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello, I am looking for suggestions on how to re-work my pump inlet plumbing (hayward super pump). As you can see in the attached photo, someone previous to me decided that a DWV rubber coupling was the best option. It did work fine for a while, but I have been getting some suction side leakage so I want to replace it.

Its flexible PVC to a 45 fitting (appears glued and clamped) to the DWV coupling to the pipe inlet. The biggest issue is that the pipe inlet sits just a bit higher than the 45 so the DWV coupling is not fully attached on either side.

I am working with limited room as its very close to the front of my shed and my plumbing experience is limited.

What is the best way to reconfigure this?

Thanks

IMG_20200614_201758.jpg
 
Odd connection to say the least. My first thought (due to your limited space on the PVC pipe itself) is get a PVC fitting that matches that one, take that to an auto parts store and see if you can find a radiator hose that the PVC can fit inside of the radiator hose. Replace the rubber hose with the (now trimmed) radiator hose which can then be clamped, on the outside, of the PVC Sch. 40 connectors.

There are vehicles that have T hoses but I can't remember which ones. Parts store may know tho. They are use to dealing with odd things.

BTW: I don't know about the North East but in the South West we "rattle can" paint all exposed PVC pipes because of the sun.
 
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Odd connection to say the least. My first thought (due to your limited space on the PVC pipe itself) is get a PVC fitting that matches that one, take that to an auto parts store and see if you can find a radiator hose that the PVC can fit inside of the radiator hose. Replace the rubber hose with the (now trimmed) radiator hose which can then be clamped, on the outside, of the PVC Sch. 40 connectors.

There are vehicles that have T hoses but I can't remember which ones. Parts store may know tho. They are use to dealing with odd things.

BTW: I don't know about the North East but in the South West we "rattle can" paint all exposed PVC pipes because of the sun.

I'm not sure I really want to go that route, I am sure there is a way I can do this with with conventional pool plumbing pipe and fittings, I just don't know the best way and I am trying to avoid making multiple trips to Home Depot these days so want to have a plan before I buy supplies.

My equipment is in a shed so doesn't get much sun.
 
yup yup yup. A PVC dentent is usually as deep as the pipe width ( a 3/4” pipe will go into a 3/4” fitting about 3/4” of an inch). I don't think you have enough distance to add 2 female connections based on the pic. The 45 angle connector isn't helping. I am not a fan of flex plumbing either.

Sorry.
 
yup yup yup. A PVC dentent is usually as deep as the pipe width ( a 3/4” pipe will go into a 3/4” fitting about 3/4” of an inch). I don't think you have enough distance to add 2 female connections based on the pic. The 45 angle connector isn't helping. I am not a fan of flex plumbing either.

Sorry.

I'll take a pic tomorrow with a measuring tape so you can see exactly how much room there is. I am also not opposed to cutting off the 45 and starting with bare flex pipe.

Flex is more common here in the north east as we have to deal with freeze/thaw that can crack rigid PVC more easily. I assume that is not an issue in AZ.
 
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I would cut out the 45 and start with a clean attachment to the flex pipe. Definitely install a coupler as that will make your winter removal of the pump much easier. A 90 in place of the rubber coupler/45 shouldn’t pose any issue that I can see.
 
I would cut out the 45 and start with a clean attachment to the flex pipe. Definitely install a coupler as that will make your winter removal of the pump much easier. A 90 in place of the rubber coupler/45 shouldn’t pose any issue that I can see.

If I remove the rubber coupler and 45 then attach a 90 directly to the flex pipe, the pump inlet fitting will still be significantly higher than the 90. How can I make the two match up (height-wise)?

What if I did a coupler on the flex pipe to a street 90? That would likely give me enough height. Can anyone think of a better way?

Also - what is the correct primer and cement for flex pipe to sch 40 fittings?
 
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Ignore what I said before - I completely misread some thing. First off remove the rubber coupler and make sure you have enough length to attach a female PVC connector. If so, then you can start cutting things. You may get away with two 90 off the pump, attach a T line (so you can add for future service line but that is a maybe) then two 90s to get back in that line again. You may need to cut the flex line lower, attach another flex line in order to align that to the pump height. Buy several PVC connections and dry fit everything. You will make a least 2 Home Depot trips, hopefully the second trip is just returning the unused connectors.

Flex line uses the same as sch 40. There is a single Red Hot cement but it hardens in like 3 seconds so there is not much twist/adjust time so I can't recommend that for what you are doing.
 
Ignore what I said before - I completely misread some thing. First off remove the rubber coupler and make sure you have enough length to attach a female PVC connector. If so, then you can start cutting things. You may get away with two 90 off the pump, attach a T line (so you can add for future service line but that is a maybe) then two 90s to get back in that line again. You may need to cut the flex line lower, attach another flex line in order to align that to the pump height. Buy several PVC connections and dry fit everything. You will make a least 2 Home Depot trips, hopefully the second trip is just returning the unused connectors.

Flex line uses the same as sch 40. There is a single Red Hot cement but it hardens in like 3 seconds so there is not much twist/adjust time so I can't recommend that for what you are doing.

Can you explain what you mean by two 90s off the pump and then two 90s to get back in line?
 

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come off the pump, take a right 90, take a left 90, add the T, two 90s to line back up with the flexline again. I see no way to add a T and keep that in a straight line from pump to the flexline.
 
come off the pump, take a right 90, take a left 90, add the T, two 90s to line back up with the flexline again. I see no way to add a T and keep that in a straight line from pump to the flexline.
What is the purpose of adding the T? Not trying to make this more complicated than it needs to be.

Can you replace the flex with rigid rather easily? That would be my choice......It would be very easy from there.
Not really. My assumption is that it runs under the concrete patio to my skimmer, so I would prefer to leave it as is underground and just fix the above ground portion. Whats stopping me from removing the 45, gluing a coupling to the flex and continuing with rigid to the pump inlet?
 
Whats stopping me from removing the 45, gluing a coupling to the flex and continuing with rigid to the pump inlet?
Nothing really.....I am not a big fan of flex but if it goes all the way to the skimmer, I would leave it, too.

So connect the flex and rigid up vertically, place a 90 for the turn and then run rigid across until you connect up using a pump union. Google that "pump union" and you will find one that meets your requirements.
 
Well it's not pretty but it works (no suction leaks). I just used the generic union from Lowe's but if it gives me trouble I can switch it for a pump union. Thanks for the help!

View attachment 147415
I was slow to respond but what you did is exactly how I would’ve done it—mind you I’d probably have purple fingers and have glued my shoe to the extra pvc somehow😳. Good job!
 

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