Re-Plumbing the Pool Equipment Pad

[MyAZPool]

I am planning on re-plumbing the pool equipment pad once it cools down here in Arizona. I will be incorporating some new equipment while re-plumbing. Pentair Intelliflo VSF Pump, Pentair Multiport Valve, IntelliChlor IC-60 and IntelliPH or IntelliChem.

 

[jblizzle]

Make sure all fittings are Schedule 40.
I would suggest using the 2/2.5" Jandy valves (if that is not what the part numbers are), not the 1.5/2" valves.
I would not worry about using sweep 90s or the Wyes.
No point to the check valves on the suction side of the pumps (unless your equipment is WAY above the pool water level).
What is the point of the bypass line around the filter and heater?
Really do not need the check valve after the heater for the SWG, but perhaps a good safety for if the IntellipH went crazy.
Certainly no reason to have 2 FloVis.

 

[Jimrahbe]

map,

It appears to me that you are planning on automation... Keep in mind that pool automation is designed around the standard pool/spa plumbing... the more you deviate from the norm the harder it will be to make the automation work correctly...

Simple is almost always better...

Jim R.

 

[Dirk]

I see a lot of check valves and two FlowVis (Vises? Visi?). FlowVises are check valves, so you might use that to eliminate something. And FlowVisi are based on Jandy check valve bodies, so unless you need constant monitoring of two full-time FlowVisiseses (there, that's right), you can simply swap FlowVis guts for check valve guts and move one from check to check, to monitor flow as needed (but see next paragraph). Unless there is no budget, then Vis away! Wait, take that back. Checks impact flow, Vis even more so (because they have a stronger spring). So less is more when it comes to checks and Visiseses. And...

I had a hunch about it, so I asked here a while back and got it confirmed: the location of the Vis doesn't matter all that much. Flow is constant throughout the system. The speed of the water through the various pipes and gizmos might be different, depending on diameter and fittings, etc, but the amount of water actually passing by any given point in the system is identical to every other point. The exception would be if you used those bypasses other than just on-off, and were allowing water to split into two pipes. Then flow in just those branch pipes would be different. Otherwise, you really only need one Vis, in one spot. The two you show would be giving you the same number, no matter what the pump was doing, bypasses were doing, amount of dirt in filter, etc. The two would always read the same. Now the Jandy Max circuit would be different, and if you were determined to have two Visiseses, then put one in the main circuit, and the second in your Spa "Max" circuit. But, again, you need only to swap your one Vis into the Jandy check, unless you need constant monitoring for some reason. Now if you were backwashing, the two Visiseses as shown would read differently, but do you need to know that?

The IntellipH injector fits into a 1/2" thread, so I used a 2x1/2x2 tee and screwed it into that, rather than rely on the o-ring of the saddle clamp.

Neat feature: the IntellipH controller shuts down the IntelliChlor while it's dispensing. Presumably to keep acid from injecting into chlorine. Not sure why I like that as much as I do, but I think it's cool and something Stenner users can't match.

There's a recent thread by a guy struggling with his IntelliChem system. pH is fine, ORP is making him crazy. I think this is inline with others' opinion on IntelliChem. I've been running IpH and IC for a month now. Haven't touched either chemical. Awesome!! Took a very short experimental period to dial them both in and pH and FC levels have been very solid. And my wallet is considerably heavier. Even with an IntelliChem, I think it would be foolish to assume you get to test all that less often. I just don't see the benefit even it it worked well, which it doesn't seem to (at least based on anecdotal evidence). You'll pay a bit more for an IntellipH than you would for the acid tank you need for the IntelliChem (they are basically the same thing, with and without the motor), so I'd recommend you try the IntellipH and IC first, and see if they fit your need, before you pony up for IntelliChem. I think you can use the IntellipH tank with IntelliChem if you add it later. Based on the past month, I don't see any advantage to IntelliChem at all, except perhaps being able to control pH from ScreenLogic. The IntellipH controller passes control of IC on to my ET, so I didn't lose that function. But for some reason, Pentair doesn't have the ET managing the IntellipH controller, I have to go to the pad for that. Unfortunate, and the only thing I think lacking in IntellipH.

I don't agree about the sweeps. I say use 'em, get a little extra flow. No science, just gut. That, and the "Just Some Thoughts" section of this article.

 

[MyAZPool]

Thanks to all who took the time to respond. I really do appreciate it.
I will incorporate some of the ideas and don't agree with others due to some detailed research.

1. I will stay with sweeps on the 90's, as they increase the flow by about 12%. Yes, they are a bit more $, but hey 12%? Yes I did see this article and have posted this link in another thread. Thanks!

2. On the diverter valves, check valves and the flo-Visiseses (lol), absolutely, they will be the 2"x2 1/2" type.

3. I really like the idea of using the 2"Sx2"Sx1/2"T "Tee" for the IntelliPH injector instead of the saddle clamp. Great idea. Thanks Dirk!

4. The reason for two flo-Visiseses is so I don't have to go to the hassle of swapping out the flo-vis with a plain ole check valve and can compare suction and return flow simultaneously. Especially when using the bypass. Plus they do have a "cool factor" you must admit
NOTE: One thing I have learned about the Arizona sun however. It's brutal on filter pressure gauges, backwash sight glass etc. They tend to discolor (yellow) very quickly in the sun. Since I am unable to shade the entire pool equipment pad, I am going to use velcro covers on all items to prevent the discoloration of any clear plastic (flo-vis, check valves, sight glass, pressure gauge etc.) Just pop up the velcro cover and then press it back down. I'll post some photos when complete.

5. The check valves on the suction side will prevent what I currently experience. When cleaning the pump baskets, it always takes some time for the pump to re-prime. The check valves "should" prevent this.

6. Only some valves will be automated. Others will remain manual only... So as to minimize the complexity of the automation.

Thanks again everyone...

 

[jblizzle]

4. Where you have the two flow meters, they must have identical flow because all the water will be passing through both locations.

5. Pumps are designed to Prime Within a minute or so, so I really wouldn't worry about those check valves. All those check valves are likely adding more head loss than you might possibly gain from all of your sweeps.

 

[Dirk]

4. Where you have the two flow meters, they must have identical flow because all the water will be passing through both locations.

5. Pumps are designed to Prime Within a minute or so, so I really wouldn't worry about those check valves. All those check valves are likely adding more head loss than you might possibly gain from all of your sweeps.

Agree and agree. I really do think those two flow meters, as spec'd, will never read differently... But they will both be contributing equally to head loss. Now, I'm not saying engaging the bypass won't change flow, in fact I'd expect a huge change. But both meters will still read the bypassed flow rate identically.

Keep us posted on the results.

 

[MyAZPool]

Thanks folks. Your comments and suggestions make a lot of sense. I have further researched based on your comments and have revised my proposed equipment pad build. I have reduced the floVis from two to one and reduced the amount of check valves from 4 to 3. I think I will be fine not having check valves prior to the pump intakes since my pumps are not that much higher than the water level (about 15").

Also, I have replaced the two sweep Y's for straight tees based on a recommendation from a local pool tech. He believes that the Y's will interrupt normal water flow somewhat. Here is the revised diagram. Thanks again for the advice!

 

[MyAZPool]

In the 3rd revision, I just eliminated two 90's and two 45's from my design.

 

[blakeusa]

In IC-40 is plenty for your 20k pool.

 

[Jimrahbe]

In IC-40 is plenty for your 20k pool.

Not so much in AZ as it would be in CT...

Jim R.

 

[Dirk]

REV 3

Looking much better. But... I would move the FlowVis to right after the pump for these reasons:

1. You'll get the same reading in either location

2. Where it is now you'll have higher concentrations of acid and chlorine pumping into it.

3. It'll get taken out of service when you use the filter bypass loop. It'll function as a check, but it won't be a flow meter.

If it's right after the pump, then no matter which bypass you use, or even if you set either or both bypasses to a midway position, you'll get an accurate flow reading. You'll even get a reading while backwashing the filter. It's the one position where you'll get a flow reading for any combination of valve positions.

Also, consider swapping "Water Feature" with "Spa Return." I think by doing that you'll be able to enjoy your water feature while in the spa. At least after the spa reaches temp. The way it is now, you can't.

Wait, I just looked at that again. I guess with the three-ways like that you can get any amount of water to any of the three things. So it comes down to what makes logical sense to you. Unless you're going to use actuators, which only allow two positions. So that's something to think about if you haven't already.

Not sure, but I'd say you don't really need either check valve. What purpose are they serving?

 

[MyAZPool]

In IC-40 is plenty for your 20k pool.

I'm going to stick with the IC-60 for several reasons.

1. I will be automating with either the IntelliCenter (waiting to see the specs, features & documentation first) or if not the IC, then the IntelliTouch with ScreenLogic. Hence, I will be able to fine tune the SWCG in 1% increments.
2. As Jimrahbe alluded to, Arizona is pretty demanding of chlorine. Although the IC-60 is a bit more expensive, it should last longer as it will not have to work as hard since I don't have to run it (and the pump) near as long to keep up with the chlorine demand.
See the following threads:
https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/115624-IC40-vs-IC60-I-could-use-a-little-help-here
https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/127178-IC40-v-IC60
https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/27229-Selecting-the-right-size-Intellichlor

 

[MyAZPool]

REV 3

Looking much better. But... I would move the FlowVis to right after the pump for these reasons:

1. You'll get the same reading in either location

2. Where it is now you'll have higher concentrations of acid and chlorine pumping into it.

3. It'll get taken out of service when you use the filter bypass loop. It'll function as a check, but it won't be a flow meter.

If it's right after the pump, then no matter which bypass you use, or even if you set either or both bypasses to a midway position, you'll get an accurate flow reading. You'll even get a reading while backwashing the filter. It's the one position where you'll get a flow reading for any combination of valve positions.

Also, consider swapping "Water Feature" with "Spa Return." I think by doing that you'll be able to enjoy your water feature while in the spa. At least after the spa reaches temp. The way it is now, you can't.

Wait, I just looked at that again. I guess with the three-ways like that you can get any amount of water to any of the three things. So it comes down to what makes logical sense to you. Unless you're going to use actuators, which only allow two positions. So that's something to think about if you haven't already.

Not sure, but I'd say you don't really need either check valve. What purpose are they serving?

Thanks Dirk! You bring up some good points that I like but here is the dilemma. If I move the floVis as you recommend, then I still need either a check valve or a Jandy two-way where the the FloVis is currently located if ever using the Filter & ByPass Loop. With an additional check valve in normal operation, I have introduced additional flow reduction. If I use a Jandy two-way where the FloVis is currently located, then I have to open two valves to use the ByPass. It addition, can you imagine what would happen if that two-way Jandy ever got closed during normal operation (Bypass NOT open) Yikes.... Something will blow. Soooo weighing the pro's, con's and safety considerations, I'm thinking it would be better to leave as is. If I ever want to compare compare flow rates between normal operation and using the filter, Heater & Sanitation ByPass, then I can just do a swap with the check valve in that line temporarily.

To answer your last question, the check valve on the heater return line will keep flow from backtracking into the heater loop during normal operation and also keep chlorine from backing up that way as well. The check valve located at the Tee, keeps water from backing up the other way and as I was mentioning earlier, gives me the option of swapping out the floVis temporarily to measure the flow if bypassing all the other equipment.

Correct regarding the actuators. Although I can still only choose two positions, the New Pentair actuators will allow more precise settings for: NORMAL operation and SPA setting. Since I would not ever want to heat the water feature since it is associated with the pool proper, The few times I use the spa in the winter, That top three-way would fully close to the Pool/Water Feature and open 100% to the spa return. Same with the top suction three-way. Pool Skim/Drain and In-Wall Pool Cleaner would get completely closed which would completely open the Spa Skim/Drain. Hope I articulated that correctly .

As always, thanks for bringing up some good points and keeping the discussion on-track.

 

[Dirk]

Sounds like you have a handle on actuators and three-ways. Coolio.

I see what you're saying about the checks, and I'd love to have someone in the know back me up here, but I still don't think they're necessary. (And yes, you definitely don't want to use a valve instead.)

The SWG and IntellipH can only dispense while there is flow. They shut down instantly the flow does. So there really is no danger of any acid or chlorine backing up, because there's always flow pushing it the other way.

And while I'm following your logic or water moving through the tee in the wrong direction, I don't think that can actually happen. Take the filter bypass, for example. With the three-way open to the filter, the bypass pipe is closed off 100% at the valve, but it is still full of water. So if you follow the water path through the system, all the way around to the tee at the other end of the bypass loop, water is not going to flow back up that pipe. It would have no place to go. So no check is needed. See what I mean? A check is needed only if the water flow could actually move the wrong way. With the three-way closed at the beginning of the bypass path, it has no where to go, except where you want it to, on to the return plumbing.

Anyone else? Am I not understanding that correctly?

I believe that to be true for all the check valves in the OP's schematic. Yes, the "wrong way" pipe will be under pressure, but there won't actually be any flow in the wrong direction, because there is always a three-way valve closed at the other end.

 

[MyAZPool]

Pool Equipment Pad Rebuild Synopsis

1. The first thing I did was determine that I required a Load Center (especially since automation are in the cards in the very near future) co-located at the pad instead of having the circuit breakers all the way at the circuit breaker panel at the front of the house. I consulted my commercial electrician neighbor and obtained all of the information and requirements necessary.

(a) Obtained and then mounted a Pentair IntelliTouch Load Center. That way, I could go IntelliTouch or IntelliCenter (once it was released).

(b) Dug the trench.

(c) Laid in the conduit. At the same time, I laid in a low voltage conduit from the side of the house that would extend wired network service out to the pad. This would allow me to have wired network connectivity to my router instead of using wireless for the future automation.

(d) Pulled (4) #6 wires (2 hot, 1 neutral & 1 ground) approximately 120’ (with the help of my neighbor). This gave me 60 amp service at the load center.

2. Next, I determined that I wanted the light conduit to terminate at the load center (a much cleaner setup) instead of using the typical brass junction box that is so often used at pool equipment pads.

(a) Researched LED pool lights and purchased a J&J color Splash XG LED Pool light.

(b) Dug out and around the existing brass conduit and extended the trench to below the load center.

(c) Found a professional who specializes in pool lights/pool lighting conduit. He came out and did the necessary bending, threading and adding conduit and connected the new conduit extension to the load center. In addition, he pulled the new light cord through the conduit. A great job at an even better price considering all that was involved.

3. It was now time to research and plan for the new plumbing and new equipment. I was keeping my existing filter and heater (nothing wrong with them) and to use my current single speed Jandy pump for the Spa Jet Pump replacing an approximately 25 year old antique as the Spa Jet Pump (see photos).

(a) After posing lots of questions to those here on TFP, I continued to refine the plumbing layout and equipment through 6 revisions, while also planning for the future automation and considering all of the compatibility issues that might be involved.

(b) I settled on the following new equipment after much research and advice: Pentair IntelliFlo VSF as the main pump. Pentair IntelliChlor IC-60 replacing an 11 year old Zodiac LM3-40 SCG. Pentair Multi-Port Filter Valve replacing an old “push-pull” type backwash valve.

4. I ordered all of the necessary plumbing parts, valves, fittings etc. All elbows were “sweep-ells” in order to minimize head loss. I began layout in my garage. Measuring and marking all of the fittings and components for “top-dead-center” to insure that the fittings would be level and plump when they were glued together. I took the heater in the garage (I cut it out of the line after the valves so my pool could continue to operate) and completely cleaned it up. It was a mess inside which prompted me to decide to keep it covered in the future when not in use. I also punched a second knockout in the low voltage area of the heater to accommodate a ½” conduit that would contain the two control wires that will be needed in order to take advantage of the future automation.

5. During planning I determined that the heater pad would need to be shifted about 8 feet to the west in order to accommodate the necessary and planned “heater bypass” plumbing and to allow for enough room for the return plumbing/equipment requirements. This meant that I needed to shorten the LP line. I dug down about 18”. I located the gas line and continued to dig back until I found a threaded fitting. I then removed the short piece of gas line and “stubbed-up” for the LP valve in the new location. (see photos).

6. After all of the preliminaries, it was time to begin. I wanted my pool to be “down” for the shortest time possible (especially in the summer). I opted to do this project at this time of the year since I wanted to take advantage of the Pentair rebate on the pump (which ended 9/30/2018).

(a) I knew that in order to accommodate the new plumbing requirements, that the plumbing lines would need to be cut below grade and then adjusted accordingly.
This also meant that I would need to drain the pool at least below that level (I ended up lowering the pool level approximately 20%).

(b) I removed the surrounding deco rock and dug out (very carefully) all around the plumbing pipes that were below grade (see photos). I know now what it feels like to excavate an archeological site.

(c) I drained the water, shutdown the pool and super-chlorinated the water.

(d) I began to cut out all of the old plumbing and then cut the pipes below grade initially at the closest point to the pad until I could determine exactly where the final cuts would need to be in order to accommodate for the new plumbing layout.

(e) I took this time to paint the filter (rolled – 2 coats). I was kind of worried how it would turn out but I am very pleased now with the results.

7. FITTING AND GLUEING. I am very pleased with the final results. However, I can’t over-emphasize the following observations in order to achieve the proper and final results.
(a) TAKE YOUR TIME!
(b) Plan, plan and plan some more.
(c) Measure and fit and then measure and fit again before ever cutting and especially before gluing. Don’t “swag” or guestimate any measurement. Each fitting opening should be measured for exact fit and then double checked.
(d) Use shims to get the exact “level” measurement.
(e) Use a quality torpedo and carpenter’s level constantly to ensure level and plumb (I think this is so important (see photos) to achieve a good final result in the plumbing layout.
(f) Cut the pipe using a “chop saw” for the cleanest and straightest cuts.
(g) I used several in-line unions so that I could “modularize” the installation. It also makes fitting and eventual painting of the pipes much easier as well.
(h) I opted to paint the pipes using a roller instead of spray paint. I think it allowed for a cleaner looking result and with no overspray. I rolled two coats. I masked off all valves, unions etc. which also gave a cleaner result.

8. Electrical: These are some of my own personal preferences.

(a) Line Voltage and Low Voltage Junction Boxes: I did not want a lot of unsightly wires, control cables and conduits running into the load center. I knew that eventually with automation laid in, I would have several valve wires, heater control wires, SCG cable, pump control cable and maybe eventually control cables for IntelliPH or IntelliChem. So, I designed it so that all low voltage wiring would connect to the Low Voltage Junction box and through the main Low Voltage Conduit to the Low Voltage Raceway of the Load Center.

(b) Same with Line Voltage (220 Vac/110 Vac). All line voltage equipment requirements connect at the Line Voltage Junction Box and then to the Load Center via a main conduit.

(c) Also notice that I am still incorporating an antique intermatic timer. This is for the SWCG ONLY. Since the pump has its own internal schedules and I have not incorporated the automation yet, I needed a way to essentially coordinate the operations schedules for the SWCG with the schedules built into the pump. This is how I did it based on what others here on TFP had done to also solve this issue.


Well, I think that’s pretty much it. You can review the photos and pretty much ascertain what occurred during the rebuild and what the final result is through review of the photos. I am in no way suggesting that the methods I used here or the final result is exactly how an equipment pad rebuild should be accomplished (as I suspect that some will take issue or disagree with my methods and results). Rather, I am only providing this information to share my experience like so many others have done, so that others considering an equipment pad rebuild and modernization project can only pick and choose which methods and results that they may want to consider in their rebuild. I hope this posting helps to make the job of a pad rebuild easier on others considering doing the same.

 

[Dirk]

Uhg, you back filled already... Can you pull any more wires through the low-voltage conduit? Did I explain this to you, or was it someone else? Sorry, if so.

Running ethernet out to the pad was smart. But...

You're getting Pentair automation, so you're going to want ScreenLogic. ScreenLogic connects to your LAN (local network) via a little box they call a Protocol Adaptor. It connects to your router or switch via an ethernet cable. Then it connects to your ET in one of two ways. Via a four-wire cable (like door bell wire), or a wireless setup they sell: one unit near the Adaptor, and the other unit mounted on the exterior wall, near your ET (pretty darn ugly to me).

So wireless is fine, I suppose, and how most folks to it, but I don't like wireless and prefer hardwire. So you then have two more choices, to install the Adaptor near the ET somehow, wire it to the ET with a short run of four-wire cable, and then plug in your ethernet cable. Or install the Adaptor near your router, connected with a short run of Cat-6, and connect it to the ET with a long run of four-wire cable. The latter is how I did it, because the Adaptor is definitely not suited for exterior mounting, and doesn't really belong stuffed into the ET somewhere, which would maybe subject it to signal noise from all the current running around (OK, I made that up, but it's possible, and it's not designed to be outside like that). Plus, I've had to reset the thing twice, which required direct, physical access to the Adaptor, so you don't want it inaccessible, like behind an ET panel, etc.

The Adaptor should be near your router and accessible, and then connected to the ET via cable (not ethernet). Or you can use the wireless setup.

And this is where the others will pile on me! If you have the four-wire cable inside, you can splice other devices directly into it, like some of the other Pentair remote offerings. I use the Indoor Control Panel, which others here will tell you is made obsolete by ScreenLogic, but I have a long dissertation about why that is not so, and further explanations about how I find it very useful... :blah:

So if you decide to hardwire, you'll be OK if you can still pull another cable (about the thickness of an Ethernet cable) through the conduit.

 

[MyAZPool]

Uhg, you back filled already... Can you pull any more wires through the low-voltage conduit? Did I explain this to you, or was it someone else? Sorry, if so.

Running ethernet out to the pad was smart. But...

You're getting Pentair automation, so you're going to want ScreenLogic. ScreenLogic connects to your LAN (local network) via a little box they call a Protocol Adaptor. It connects to your router or switch via an ethernet cable. Then it connects to your ET in one of two ways. Via a four-wire cable (like door bell wire), or a wireless setup they sell: one unit near the Adaptor, and the other unit mounted on the exterior wall, near your ET (pretty darn ugly to me).

So wireless is fine, I suppose, and how most folks to it, but I don't like wireless and prefer hardwire. So you then have two more choices, to install the Adaptor near the ET somehow, wire it to the ET with a short run of four-wire cable, and then plug in your ethernet cable. Or install the Adaptor near your router, connected with a short run of Cat-6, and connect it to the ET with a long run of four-wire cable. The latter is how I did it, because the Adaptor is definitely not suited for exterior mounting, and doesn't really belong stuffed into the ET somewhere, which would maybe subject it to signal noise from all the current running around (OK, I made that up, but it's possible, and it's not designed to be outside like that). Plus, I've had to reset the thing twice, which required direct, physical access to the Adaptor, so you don't want it inaccessible, like behind an ET panel, etc.

The Adaptor should be near your router and accessible, and then connected to the ET via cable (not ethernet). Or you can use the wireless setup.

And this is where the others will pile on me! If you have the four-wire cable inside, you can splice other devices directly into it, like some of the other Pentair remote offerings. I use the Indoor Control Panel, which others here will tell you is made obsolete by ScreenLogic, but I have a long dissertation about why that is not so, and further explanations about how I find it very useful... :blah:

So if you decide to hardwire, you'll be OK if you can still pull another cable (about the thickness of an Ethernet cable) through the conduit.

Hi Dirk,

1. Of course I can pull more wire through the conduit. I would never think of pulling a wire through a non-filled conduit without pulling a pull-cord (zipline) along with it. If fact, right now, that is all I have in the conduit. When I pull the Cat-5E with the zip line, I'll certainly pull another pull cord.

2. I think you were assuming that my automation would be an Easy Touch or IntelliTouch since you brought up ScreenLogic. No need for any 4 wire control cable wiring or any of that mess. I will jump ahead and install the IntelliCenter in the Load Center. On the IC PCB there is a female RJ-45 connector. I checked with Pentair. In order to eliminate wireless, it's just a simple matter to connect a cat-5 from the RJ-45 on the board to a router or switch in the house. Simple as that. No klunky interface boxes, etc etc. From the house, through the conduit, up into the low voltage raceway in the load center and connect on to the IC board.

Hey thanks for reality check and take care..
r.

 

[Dirk]

Whoa! Slow that spaceship down, Jetson! You mean Pentair has entered the 20th century!?! And you've installed the Power Center that will house their new gear? Very cool. You'll have to usher us into this new era, and be our guinea pig mentor!! Is it out yet? Got an ETA?

 

[MyAZPool]

Whoa! Slow that spaceship down, Jetson! You mean Pentair has entered the 20th century!?! And you've installed the Power Center that will house their new gear? Very cool. You'll have to usher us into this new era, and be our guinea pig mentor!! Is it out yet? Got an ETA?

LOL... They have in fact released it. It's been out now for about a month. Actually, I will not be the first here. Check out TonyWI. Rather than retyping a bunch of info on this thread, slide on over to the IntelliCenter Thread. Lot's of latest info, links etc.

The latest word I have from a contact I know is that the retrofit kits for the Easy Touch and IntelliTouch load/power centers will be bundled up around March. There are slight differences such as the bezel, system transformer, circuit breaker housing etc, but they are minor. As you can tell from the documentation though, there is nothing minor about the performance and connectivity diffs however.