Raypak 406a replacement (partial DIY)

[Pauls234]

Hi All,

Last stretch in the unplanned replacement of my AGP, heater and (planned) addition of SWG.

Finally found someone with real experience repairing pool heaters in my area, came by a few weeks ago, opened it up and it was badly rusted everywhere and showed corrosion on underside if heat exchange, so time for a new one (only 7 years old, but Chicago winters I guess) . Received new 406a last week and now this guy is too busy to get over and install replacement.

I'm comfortable DIYing except the gas connection because I don't want my first ever attempt at connecting gas pipes to be in this scenario, so found a local gas plumber willing to do that for me tomorrow.

So, for the rest of it... the water connection is easy of course since inlet/outlet are in the same place. (Only difference I see is sacrificial anode on this newer model)

Electric - currently is wired to a standard 3 prong receptacle for 120v so planning just to reuse that.

Is there anything I'm overlooking in set up/ initial install as described above?

I am not sure how much plumber will help me move heater from garage to back, I didn't include that in the job description. How hard are these for 1 guy and a hand truck to move?

What parts should I take from the old? Unitherm governor, 1 year old temp sensor... my erratic hi limit switches can go straight to the trash. Anything else?

Thx!
Paul

 

[jsygrls]

Me and a neighbor, moved Gulfstream heat pump 116K BTU that weight 206lbs, by using a hand truck across a grass yard,, one guiding one pushing, also used some left over plywood (leap frogging method). Maybe your plumber will help, talk to him first, because you will defiantly need help, its a two person job.

 

[Poolbreh]

Fairly easy to move, I used to move them all the time by myself. Just make sure your county allows atmospheric heaters still. Otherwise Raypak won’t honor their warranty. I’m currently dealing with this right now. Everything locally for me has to be low emission.

 

[Pauls234]

Thanks for the above. So sounds like nothing I am overlooking other than maybe the challenge of moving the unit. I guess I'll get a sense of that when I first move the old out of its place.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi All,

Last stretch in the unplanned replacement of my AGP, heater and (planned) addition of SWG.

Finally found someone with real experience repairing pool heaters in my area, came by a few weeks ago, opened it up and it was badly rusted everywhere and showed corrosion on underside if heat exchange, so time for a new one (only 7 years old, but Chicago winters I guess) . Received new 406a last week and now this guy is too busy to get over and install replacement.

I'm comfortable DIYing except the gas connection because I don't want my first ever attempt at connecting gas pipes to be in this scenario, so found a local gas plumber willing to do that for me tomorrow.

So, for the rest of it... the water connection is easy of course since inlet/outlet are in the same place. (Only difference I see is sacrificial anode on this newer model)

Electric - currently is wired to a standard 3 prong receptacle for 120v so planning just to reuse that.

Is there anything I'm overlooking in set up/ initial install as described above?

I am not sure how much plumber will help me move heater from garage to back, I didn't include that in the job description. How hard are these for 1 guy and a hand truck to move?

What parts should I take from the old? Unitherm governor, 1 year old temp sensor... my erratic hi limit switches can go straight to the trash. Anything else?

Thx!
Paul

If you are willing to take it out, the copper in the heat exchanger is valuable at a recycler if you recycle cans as well. Might save the temp sensor as it is fairly new. Also the fusible link at the lower left of the cabinet above the burner tray. They don't go bad unless there is a problem with the heater and are sometimes difficult to get when needed. If there is no problem with the circuit board/control panel, save it as well. It may not be the same as the new but can be used in a pinch if there is a problem until a new one can be obtained. You can save the entire panel (sheet metal and all) or just the circuit board itself along with the on/off switch. The rest can be tossed.

 

[Pauls234]

I am not exactly sure I can picture the fusible link but will look for it. Thank you for the rest of the info as well... I may have to leave the copper exchange inside it to entice a scavenger to take the whole thing away!

 

[1poolman1]