Raypak 266a wont ignite pilot

mortimer99

New member
May 6, 2014
3
La Honda, CA
I have a Raypak p-r266a-ep-c that's about 5 years old, and I went to fire it up today and the pilot won't ignite. Its the digital version and I got the manual and did the troubleshooting. I took the igniter out and it fires a spark, took of the pilot gas tube, and it was clear as was the tip. I made sure the gas was on, I put a volt meter on the board at the MV-MV/PV terminals on the main board, when the igniter would fire the volts were around 19 ish, it tries 3 times in a row then waits then tries it again and I only get to see the voltage for a second so its somewhere around 18-20. The manual says its suppose to be 24 and if not the board is bad, if it is then the valve is bad. I guess my question is if the voltage I am reading is close enough given the short amount of time or is this typical of a failed board? Your help is appreciated!
 

swamprat69

Well-known member
Mar 30, 2019
241
Las Vegas, NV
You are checking for voltage at the wrong terminals. MV- MV/PV is checking voltage for the main gas valve solenoid after the pilot is lit. You should be checking PV-MV/PV to see if the pilot solenoid of the gas valve is getting 24V. But you also need check LP supply pressure and outlet pressure from the gas valve and possibly the pilot orifice if both inlet and outlet pressure measured good.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
4,042
FL
Sometimes the voltage is a plus/minus of what you should have. When you removed the pilot tube from the gas valve, did you try to blow air in it to see if it is restricted? I just usually use my mouth and see if I can blow some air thru it. If you can't blow any thru it, then you have a clogged pilot tube or you have a stuck orifice. If it is a stuck orifice, I would replace the pilot assembly.
 

Pool Clown

In The Industry
Sep 5, 2008
2,122
Silicon Valley, CA
Right when the heater begins its buzz to ignite the pilot, you should hear a click. That would be the pilot valve solenoid. You may have to take the door off to hear. If you hear that click, your probably getting gas to the tube and/or orifice, and one or both is just clogged like Paul says.
 

mortimer99

New member
May 6, 2014
3
La Honda, CA
Thanks all, I was checking voltage at the wrong terminal, I checked at pv-mv/pv and had 28V, so I guess the board is OK?. Pilot tube is clear, when I removed it I could blow through it, gas at the propane tank is the same tank I use for my home, and everything is working there, although it goes through a different I don't have a gauge to check the pressure, but I'm guessing its a fuel supply issue, either from the shutoff value at the tank, before the heater or the heater valve.
Right when the heater begins its buzz to ignite the pilot, you should hear a click. That would be the pilot valve solenoid. You may have to take the door off to hear. If you hear that click, your probably getting gas to the tube and/or orifice, and one or both is just clogged like Paul says.
Thanks! good info, no click so I am guessing the valve is not opening. I opened the propane pipe at the junction after turning off the gas and there is definitely gas there so i am betting it is the heater valve and solenoid. I ordered a new one, will let you know the result.
 

Pool Clown

In The Industry
Sep 5, 2008
2,122
Silicon Valley, CA
Confirm you are getting voltage at the PV and MV/PV wires at the gas valve OR at the board if nothing at the valve, this will rule out possible faulty wiring (when it is supposed to be lighting).