Question on how to bring TA and CH to recommended ranges

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C

cargsl

Member
Jul 13, 2022
22
Cypress, TX
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Yesterday I finally received my TF-Pro test kit and got to work on getting the chemistry right. Before receiving the kit I exchanged a ton of water out of my pool to drop my CYA level from 121 (a pool store measurement, but it was consistent across a couple of stores so I went with it while waiting for the test kit). Without further ado, these are my TF-Pro results, taken after I finished the water exchange process)

FC: 3.5
CC: 0
pH: 8.2
TA: 230
CH: 125
CYA: 40
CSI: 0.77

After reading the articles on Pool School, I feel pretty confident on how to manage FC (with LC) and pH (with MA). With regards to TA and CH though I do have some questions:
  1. 1. I've already ordered 40lbs of Calcium Chloride to raise that CH to at least 400 but it will get to me on the 21st. Is it ok to wait for a week before raising my CH?
    1. Would it make financial sense (I think chemically it would be ok) to get some Cal-Hypo and use that to manage FC for a little bit and increase CH that way?
  2. For TA, I know I have to use MA to bring it down and then aerate the pool to bring pH back up again. Should I begin that now or wait until the Calcium Chloride arrives?
 
Waiting another week for the calcium isn't going to make a big difference in the pool. Your overall CSI is positive enough above zero to protect the plaster from etching. So high in fact that you can go ahead and manage the pH and TA a little. While waiting for the calcium, use enough acid to lower the pH to about 7.2, then just let the natural increase occur for now. Once the pH hits 8.0, repeat. Each time you do that it will lower the TA a little. No need to rush the process with aeration unless you just really want to. The elevated TA and pH help compensate for the low CH.

Speaking of calcium, if your local water is hard, I would only take the CH to about 300 and let seasonal refills increase it to 350. Your call though based on how hard your fill water is.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll start on TA at a leisurely pace and then (if possible) try to do it faster once the CH is at the right values
Texas Splash said:
Speaking of calcium, if your local water is hard, I would only take the CH to about 300 and let seasonal refills increase it to 350. Your call though based on how hard your fill water is.
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Living in Houston metro, I would have assumed my water was super hard, but every time I replaced some water on my pool to lower CYA (did three different exchanges) the CH in the pool store test (which is what I used as control while waiting for my test kit to arrive) would drop. When I did my own testing, CH was as low as you could see above
 
cargsl said:
raise that CH to at least 400
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Start out lower than 400 (maybe 275-300). The CH of your fill water will increase your overall CH, especially with the hot and dry summer we're having.

cargsl said:
Should I begin that now or wait until the Calcium Chloride arrives?
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I would start with the MA now. Manage your CSI.

cargsl said:
Nature2 (trichlor)
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Have you stopped using this? You're a great candidate for a SWG.
 
pjt said:
Start out lower than 400 (maybe 275-300). The CH of your fill water will increase your overall CH, especially with the hot and dry summer we're having.
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Just tested my water and CH is 75. Which means that the pool water will always be lowering CH :(

pjt said:
Have you stopped using this? You're a great candidate for a SWG.
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Yep, it is still inline (I'm thinking of removing it and selling it) but it has no pucks.
pjt said:
I would start with the MA now. Manage your CSI.
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On it :D
 
pjt said:
You're a great candidate for a SWG.
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I'm not sure if I want to go to SWG. I know the salt content of the pool would be significantly less than the ocean, but I lived in a coastal area for a few years and the amount of salt getting deposited everywhere and rusting stuff was *really* frustrating.
Where I live there is constant wind and my concern is that over time I will get salt deposits everywhere around the pool.

Am I being too irrational about this? If so, what SWG would you recommend?
 
cargsl said:
TA: 390 (did this test twice)
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Did you compensate for the new R-009 reagent bottle by wiping the tip with a slightly damp tissue or paper towel before each drop? When new there is a static charge on the bottle and it makes the drops smaller which will make TA read higher than it really is.
 
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cargsl said:
Just tested my water and CH is 75. Which means that the pool water will always be lowering CH :(
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No, the pool-water CH will rise even if your fill-water CH is much lower than your pool-water CH. Calcium from the fill water accumulates in the pool and doesn't evaporate; if it ever leaves the water, it's only through very slow mechanisms like splash-out or overflow, scale formation, etc.
 

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DrewLG said:
No, the pool-water CH will rise even if your fill-water CH is much lower than your pool-water CH. Calcium from the fill water accumulates in the pool and doesn't evaporate; if it ever leaves the water, it's only through very slow mechanisms like splash-out or overflow, scale formation, etc.
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You are absolutely right. I was thinking that CH dropped recently when I added new water to the pool, but I was doing a water exchange to lower CYA, so of course I drained a ton of water with higher CH (and it would explain why my CH is now trending towards my fill water). But I sure hope to never have to drain 9K gallons again
 
cargsl said:
PH: 8.2
CH: 75 (very much not 750)
TA: 390 (did this test twice)
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I have similar fill water over here. TA and pH management are more challenging, but still doable. MA will be continuously needed to manage your chemistry.

cargsl said:
the amount of salt getting deposited everywhere and rusting stuff was *really* frustrating.
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It's not like coastal sea spray. Very little dissolved salt is needed to satisfy a SWG. You probably already have a significant amount of salt in your pool water right now.

cargsl said:
Am I being too irrational about this? If so, what SWG would you recommend?
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There are tens of thousands of SWG users on this forum. You'd have to search very hard to find one that regrets getting a SWG. Do you have automation?
 
pjt said:
I have similar fill water over here. TA and pH management are more challenging, but still doable. MA will be continuously needed to manage your chemistry.
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I got a peristaltic pump for this and will get it operational this Sunday (using an already installed pH sensor for signaling), I'll be stocking up on MA :)
pjt said:
There are tens of thousands of SWG users on this forum. You'd have to search very hard to find one that regrets getting a SWG. Do you have automation?
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I have an AqualinkRS 8 control panel, which I assume should be able to control a SWG but I'm not sure if that is the case. I'm also very much of a DIYer so would love to find a SWG I can control remotely without going through the Aqualink
 
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cargsl said:
I have an AqualinkRS 8 control panel, which I assume should be able to control a SWG but I'm not sure if that is the case. I'm also very much of a DIYer so would love to find a SWG I can control remotely without going through the Aqualink
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Looks like a PLC1400 would be perfect for you.

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