Put that in your pipe and ......

Tru-Blu

Member
Aug 30, 2010
19
First off, I am very grateful for all of the TLC you guys have put into TFP so that pool newbies like myself that have limped, stumbled, or crawled from their pool stores can get the help that they REALLY need.

I'm sure to have several posts with questions on specific things (you've been warned), and my latest one has to do with piping - PVC, that is. Here's a little background first -

I live in south-eastern Michigan, and was able to get our new 24 foot AGP set up just so we could close it. Had a couple small disasters occur in the installation phase (thanks to local pool store), but we got through it. Since we went right to closing, I didn't even bother breaking the pump and filter out of their boxes. Fortunately, I had been doing some research/lurking on TFP before we bought our pool, and was able to dodge a pool store bullet in avoiding the frog system. My pool package came with the notorious hopper, but I was able to convince the pool hustler, I mean store to take it back in exchange for a larger filter system (didn't like that fact that I had to take a 1.5 hp pump with it, but it's still a 2-speed). However, I wasn't able to dodge the winterizing kit bullet - I bought and installed one for our closing, but I've learned my lesson and will hopefully be better from this point on.

Enough rambling (Bama should appreciate that) - onto the question at hand. Since I haven't installed the pump and filter, I'm thinking that I should go straight to PVC. I know a few of you have PVC on your AGP's, and I've seen a few pics of some installations that look really good. One that stood out in particular is Miranda's. At this point, I'm looking for any advice on components and/or design for the installation:

1. The pump/filter will be at ground level, while skimmer and return is approximately 3.5 feet up on the pool wall. Is it better to have the pump/filter closer to the skimmer/return or can it be anywhere once you go to PVC?

2. I've seen some have valves in their piping (especially Miranda's). Should I consider putting any valves in my installation, and if so, what brand and/or type? I'll be running a 1.5 hp 2-speed pump with a 150 sq. ft. cartridge filter.

3. What do you recommend for an efficient connect/disconnect setup for the pump and filter for removal in winterizing/repair/ect?

4. I'm planning on getting a Liquidator for helping automate chlorine distribution in the BBB method. I've seen a few posts regarding this (poolgirl22's). It looks like the LQ's connections need to be as close to the pump/filter as possible. Anything else I need to consider in my piping to accommodate that?

5. Any other tips or gotcha's to watch out for when I go to do this next Spring?

Thanks in advance for helping yet another "wet behind the ears" (yes, pun intended) rookie out,

Tru-Blu
 

Tru-Blu

Member
Aug 30, 2010
19
Wow, no replies. I swear I wore deoderant, guys - honest!

Sorry if there's something I should be able to find ny searching or if I asked too many questions in a post. Really looking for some guidance here.

Thanks in advance,

Tru
 

dmanb2b

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2009
3,734
NY
Dude...you need a new brand of deodarant :lol:

When I get a chance, I can post up some pics...but if you search rigid PVC hard piping above ground pool...you'll see plenty of examples.

My advice, use plenty of unions and schedule 40 fittings. 1.5" pvc is fine for the typical AGP set-up, but if you plan on having a longer run (20+ft) then use 2" pipe. Other than that, it's a great idea and eliminates those nasty flex tubes popping off and draining the pool.
 

Tru-Blu

Member
Aug 30, 2010
19
Thanks for the reply, Dman! I'll definitely try that search, too. Appreciate the help, Chief!
 

solarboy

Well-known member
Aug 1, 2010
337
Europe
Sounds like you got the deal you wanted. I'd say go with the PVC, you'll thank yourself in the long run. Good luck !
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,103
Houston, Texas
They forgot to mention valves! You will want valves between the pool and the pump and between the filter and the pool return. Oh, and position your unions so when you follow the flow of water in the pipes, the unions are after the valves! Take time to plan how you want the piping to work. For example, you will be installing a cartridge filter. Many of our members with cartridge filters do not have an efficient way to drain the pool should the need arise. You may want to design your pipes so that you have a section that can have a discharge hose attached in order to drain water to a desired location instead of flooding the yard.
 

Tru-Blu

Member
Aug 30, 2010
19
Thanks guys! I found some older posts based on dman's search recommendation. Looks like the piping flow will be skimmer -> ball valve -> union -> pump -> ball valve -> union -> filter -> union -> ball valve -> return

Schedule 40 PVC straights and elbows will be in between as necessary.

Does this sound right?

Tru
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,103
Houston, Texas
You don't need a valve between the pump and the filter, just a union is ok there unless you have other equipment t'ed in at that point. The rest looks good!
 

Tru-Blu

Member
Aug 30, 2010
19
I didn't know if there would be any value to having a valve between the pump and filter when I would have to take the cartridge out and clean it. Would the valve make it easier/cleaner/faster to remove the cartridge?

Tru
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,103
Houston, Texas
I would just turn off the valves at the pump and after the filter,drain the filter and open it up to get the cartridge out. Turning off the valve after the filter will stop the water from flowing back in through the return once you take the cover off the filter. Since the pump will be off and the valves closed there will only be a little water lost when from draining the filter. The plumbing between my pump and filter comes up higher than the strainer basket on the pump, so there is no water movement after the filter is empty.
 

britinusa

Well-known member
May 9, 2010
151
Western Pennsylvania
Also plan where you will be stepping to clean perform service on the pump/filter and plan your piping so you minimize the risk of stepping on pipe and damaging one.
As mentioned plan a path for a drainage pipe that wont flood your yard and make a nice mud soup next to the pool.
 

arvil

Well-known member
Mar 7, 2010
50
Quakertown, PA
My pool was installed with a 'tygon' sorta tubing on the verticals, but the skimmer side eventually started to collapse, so I replaced with all PVC. Flowpath is skimmer to union, ball valve, PVC patch union pump, filter (pump and filter is on StaRite platform only a couple inches length between them, just enough for a union). After filter it's patch union, ball valve. Each has one or more elbows. Use elbows with larger radius for less friction loss. The union type patches are those things that you buy if you have a cracked PVC pipe and just want to cut it and install this patch without replacing pipe. I installed this so I don't have to worry about slight misalignments year to year, and it minimizes vibration transmitting to the pool. If I have to let water out, I just use the Polaris hose threaded into the filter drain to move the water to a yard area about 30 ft. away from the pool. The grass never seems to be bothered by any of the chemistry.
 

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