Just bought a house with a pool, similar story to many of you all I am sure. Everything has been running fine. Yesterday my wife noticed our pump wasn't running. I took it about from the housing and checked for debris and looked at the seals / gaskets all looked good. I plugged it back in and it turned on but I got this weird noise (not sure how to attach videos). I thought maybe bearings, so I disassembled again and ran It not connected (without the impeller) and it sounds fine and normal. Went to the pool store to get new seals and the ceramic impeller gasket thing (whatever its called) and he told me my impeller was for a 1.5hp motor we have a 2hp Century UST1202 I believe its wired to 115v as its on a single breaker (3 wires inside the pump housing are connected and what i believe to be ground on top). I doubt its electrical because this is an "all of a sudden" problem. Any help is appreciated. Just kinda happened, don't see any leaks around the pump or air coming out. Gets incredibly hot and has a burnt smell. I turned it off for now.
Pump getting hot, burning smell, shutting off
- Thread starter iamtylerd
- Start date
- May 3, 2007
- 16,842
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Welcome to the forum.
www.troublefreepool.com
It isn't a problem having a larger motor for a smaller impeller but it is a problem if the motor is smaller than the impeller.
If it sounds fine with the motor removed from the wet end, then it is probably some sort of interference with the impeller and diffuser and/or housing. Look for scratch marks around the impeller.
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It isn't a problem having a larger motor for a smaller impeller but it is a problem if the motor is smaller than the impeller.
If it sounds fine with the motor removed from the wet end, then it is probably some sort of interference with the impeller and diffuser and/or housing. Look for scratch marks around the impeller.
I noticed the housing has this label hayward sp2610x15 which seems to be for a 1.5hp motor so I am guessing this was replaced somewhat kinda recent, would the housing being for 1.5hp and the pump being 2hp cause this?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,842
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
No. Again, having a larger motor is fine.
If the problem only occurs when the impeller/motor is in the housing, then it is interference somewhere. What does the diffuser look like?
The voltage selector is set to 230 volts.
Is the supply 115 or 230 volts?
Also, the wires are not connected to the terminals correctly.
It looks like the screws are cross threaded.
Is the supply 115 or 230 volts?
Also, the wires are not connected to the terminals correctly.
It looks like the screws are cross threaded.
Sorry new to home owning and a pool is there an easy way to know without hiring an electrician?
Also here is a link to my Reddit post. Not much help but you can hear the noise. Not sure how to post videos here. Reddit post with video
If the pump breaker is the GFI breaker, then it is a 120 breaker.
Specifications :
QF120 - Siemens / ITE Ground Fault Circuit Breaker
Specifications :
• Manufacturer : Siemens / ITE
• Cat. No. : QF120
• Alternate Part No. : QF-120
• UPC : 783643148581
• Trip Type : Thermal Magnetic
• No. of Pole : 1 Pole
• No. of Phase : 1 Phase
• Voltage Rating : 120 VAC
• Amperage : 20 Ampere
• Interrupting Rating 10 Kiloampere At 120 VAC (UL)
• 5 Milliampere Trip Sensitivity
• Plug In Mounting
• UPC783643148581
• Wire Size : 12-8 AWG (Aluminum) 14-10 AWG (Copper)
• Approval CSA Listed
• Qpf Model
• Authentic Siemens / ITE Product
Ok so I need to switch the pump to use 115? Anything else? Thanks for all your help. Why would they have it set to 230? Seems to have been running fine since we have been here
It looks like the breaker is 120 volts, but I would verify the voltage to be sure.
If you apply 240 volts to the motor when it is set to 120 volts, you will probably destroy the motor.
Also, the new impeller is one size bigger than the original impeller.
The new impeller requires 2 hp.
If you apply 240 volts to the motor when it is set to 120 volts, you will probably destroy the motor.
Also, the new impeller is one size bigger than the original impeller.
The new impeller requires 2 hp.
The motor was oversized for the SP2610C impeller, that’s why it was able to run at the wrong voltage.
Once you switched to the new, larger impeller, the motor could no longer tolerate the under-voltage.
I would verify the voltage and switch the selector to the correct voltage.
I would redo the terminal connections because they look loose or cross-threaded.
I would consider going to a SPX2607C impeller unless you really need a lot of flow for some reason.
Once you switched to the new, larger impeller, the motor could no longer tolerate the under-voltage.
I would verify the voltage and switch the selector to the correct voltage.
I would redo the terminal connections because they look loose or cross-threaded.
I would consider going to a SPX2607C impeller unless you really need a lot of flow for some reason.
Who did the work?
The terminals are loose and the insulation is damaged, which risks shorting to ground.
I guess the previous home owners did the work. Tried changing the voltage selector to 115 and it snapped off. So I guess I’m going to get a new pump and do it correctly. I’m gonna determine the correct voltage before installing it. The housing is for a 1.5 hp pump but this one is 2hp. For the new pump should I go with 2hp or 1.5? I’ll probably stick with century since I somewhat understand how to install it now.
Attachments
I would go with a variable speed pump like the SuperFlo VS.
www.pentair.com
Note that some variable speed pumps only take 230 volts.
So, verify the voltage before deciding on a pump.
SuperFlo® VS Variable Speed Pump
The SuperFlo VS Variable Speed Pumps bring the energy cost savings of variable speed technology to pools at an affordable price. Browse products here.
Note that some variable speed pumps only take 230 volts.
So, verify the voltage before deciding on a pump.
Unfortunately money is tight right now. Really looking for under $400 we have only been here two months. I don’t mind upgrading in 6 months to a year. With that said I was going to do a straight replacement With this
Also it’s going to be 4-5 days of not running the pump. Anything I need to do to prepare for that or is it ok?