Pump/Filter Replacement

license007

Member
Feb 4, 2021
5
Fort Worth, TX
First time post, but have really appreciated all the advice in other forums in the first year I've owned my pool. Both my filter and pump have leaks and the valves also need to be replaced. The pool is about 15k gallons and the pump is 2in pipe 35ft to 1st skimmer, 65 ft to 2nd skimmer. No special features just standard pool. I was thinking of getting the Pentair Intelliflo 011018 for the pump and the Pentair 160355 Cartridge filter. In reading some of the other posts I see recommendations to go to the larger cartridge filter but would appreciate any and all thoughts. I plan on doing this myself along with replacing the valves since they are in rough shape as well.

Included pics of the pump/filter currently. Not needing any automation or anything so I read the Intelliflo has a programmable feature which will suffice for my needs.
 

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HermanTX

Gold Supporter
May 20, 2020
1,534
Katy TX
Pool Size
14600
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
The theory is that the larger the sq. ft of a filter the less often you will need to clean it. Small areas will be shorter times between cleaning. It is a matter of how much debris your pool gets, your budget and space that may dictate your selection. They do offer a 200 sq ft opposed to the 150 sq ft you selected. The RP model is a "raised port" entrance which Pentair states is more efficient. It is also a single piece filter which makes removal easier. You will also not need to backwash it so the hook up is simpler - inlet from pump and exit to pool return. You may want to hook up a waste port since you have one on your existing hookup but it is not needed, however you could just use a submersible pump for draining instead of your main pool pump.

How are your chlorinating your pool?

Do you have a spa? The picture of your suction pipes seem to indicated multiple suction places (you mentioned 2 skimmers). Maybe you can define those. But your return to pool is a single pipe. Maybe clarify that.

A new VS will be a excellent addition as you suggested.
 

license007

Member
Feb 4, 2021
5
Fort Worth, TX
Thanks a ton for the reply. I attached another picture with labels. No spa or anything. I have a total of 5 jets or outflows on the side of the pool. I'm not sure where they branch out since the equipment is around the corner from the pool, but one outflow from the filter. I neglected to mention the vac port, but currently it is shut off as I don't have an auto vac. Currently chlorinating with tablets in the skimmer basket, but open to any better methods if there is one!
 

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mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
37,077
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40

HermanTX

Gold Supporter
May 20, 2020
1,534
Katy TX
Pool Size
14600
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Thanks a ton for the reply. I attached another picture with labels. No spa or anything. I have a total of 5 jets or outflows on the side of the pool. I'm not sure where they branch out since the equipment is around the corner from the pool, but one outflow from the filter. I neglected to mention the vac port, but currently it is shut off as I don't have an auto vac. Currently chlorinating with tablets in the skimmer basket, but open to any better methods if there is one!
OK makes total sense now that you labelled it. The single return pipe from the filter will branch off underground to each return nozzle in the pool. Great that you have 5 return nozzles. So a new filter and a VS pump would do well. You can program the VS pump directly on the display screen since you do not have automation.

If you want to follow TFP methodology then it would be suggested to stop using pucks. It is a completely different process from what a pool store will tell you. Also, you would need to buy yourself a test kit and that will help you understand the chemistry of pool water. Right now, as a minimum I would buy a floater and put the pucks in there rather than in your skimmer basket. You do not want fully diluted chemicals flowing to your pump and filter, especially if you are buying new equipment.

The concern with the use of pucks is that each puck adds chlorine, CYA and acid to your pool. To demonstrate this, each fully dissolved 8 ounce trichlor tablet (puck) will add 5.5 FC, add 3.3 CYA and drop pH by 0.29 in a 10,000 gal pool. The free chlorine (FC) is good. CYA is good to a certain level then it becomes too high and causes you to add even more chlorine to keep your pool sanitized. Whereas chlorine dissipates due to sun and attacking bacteria in the pool, CYA continues to accumulate until it gets to a point where the only option is to drain the pool and start fresh again. The acid in the puck is good to a certain point but in addition to dropping your pH it also drops Alkalinity. Then you must add chemicals to raise either pH or TA (total alkalinity) or both to maintain suitable levels. As Marty noted in his post - read the information.

If you elect to follow the methodology then the first step would be to stop using pucks and start with liquid chlorine. This is much more manageable for your pool but a little more work for you. Ideally you would install a saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG) to make life easier. It would be best to do that when you put in the new filter and pump. That way it can be plumbed properly and also electrically (the SWCG must only run when the pump is running).
Here is another link with a lot more info to read if you wish to follow the TFP methodology
Pool Care Basics Archives - Trouble Free Pool | Trouble Free Pool

I know this is a lot to digest so feel free to come back with questions if needed.
 

license007

Member
Feb 4, 2021
5
Fort Worth, TX
Thank you again for your second response with the recommended tips. I'm totally down with the liquid chlorine option and the SWCG and reviewing the other threads ordered one of them last week as well. I was using the most minimal pucks I could find after the pool company that was servicing the pool recommended the 7 in 1 but I wasn't down with the plethora of extra chemicals in there.

I'll start the fun process of replacing the valves this weekend and then figuring out the plumbing/electrical needs to make the SWCG work correctly as well. Also looks like I need to get a GFCI breaker installed as I don't have one of those on the 220 that controls the pump. I'm pretty handy with plumbing and electrical but any other random tips anyone recommends working with pool equipment are appreciated.

Hope you fared ok with our weather event last month!
 
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