Pump, Check Valve, Stuck Air, or Other?

chriswitty

Member
Aug 13, 2018
12
Canton, Georgia
I had a valve actuator go out recently and arranged for the pool man to come and replace. In the day or so before he was able to come out, the pool pump started to leak water. The pool man replaced the valve actuator (Spa Return), but it seemed as though he set the internals different than original (valve in a different position than it had been in since built I believe). To fix the leak, we opened up the pump, he looked at gasket and said it looked ok, and he applied silicone to seal up the whole works and we reassembled. That seemed to fix the leak, but then the repair seemed to have caused a different leak (location of newer silicone in photo). He said he'd have to replumb that and repair, which he did. All seemed ok for the most part, but I had to add more water to the pool before I could return the skimmer valves as he instructed. After he left and pool was full again, I engaged skimmer valve and pump has been terribly loud since. While here he said the pump looked and sounded in good shape.

Could his silicone have gotten into the pump and messed things up? Or could rogue silicone have made it to check valve and clogged it up?

Does that check valve look ok? Related to any air-in-the-lines issues?

Could the noise be related to having air trapped in the lines somewhere? Could this be related to the check valve?

Is the pump somehow running at a much higher RPM that I can lower somehow?

What am I missing?

Thank you,

Chris
 

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ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
10,771
Northern NJ
You have a single speed pump. The speed cannot be changed.

Your SPA RETURN valve is now set so water goes into your spa for your spillover when in POOL mode. Did your spillover run all the time before you replaced the actuator?
 
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chriswitty

Member
Aug 13, 2018
12
Canton, Georgia
So what is different about the spa valve?
Seems like it’s in a more open/further open position. When I mess with how far the various valves are open, the level of noise decreases (but doesn’t stay that way). Bubbler are much more powerful now, I guess cause that valve is open a little more now?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
10,771
Northern NJ
Seems like it’s in a more open/further open position.
It is not a precise adjustment for the tech to set it just like your old valve was.

The cam can be adjusted with the removal of four screws and some trial and error.

When I mess with how far the various valves are open, the level of noise decreases (but doesn’t stay that way).
Dont know which specific valves you are messing with.

Bubbler are much more powerful now, I guess cause that valve is open a little more now?
Dont know which valve that is.
 
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chriswitty

Member
Aug 13, 2018
12
Canton, Georgia
I went closer to the pump and noise just now; while pump motor is probably louder than before, the most significant noise seems to come from the pre-filter basket thing. In fact, if I put pressure on top of the clear lid, it dampens the vibration and reduces the noise some. It also appears there is a large air bubble that is now just staying in the clear portion/pre-filter basket. Does that help with any possible diagnosis?