Prosper, TX Almost Ready To Sign (UPDATE: We Signed (2/28))

[Kozman23]

Hi All,

I've been doing a lot of watching and reading over the last couple of months and I think it's time to start my own thread as we are probably a couple weeks away from signing on the dotted line. As with all builders in our area they tried to steer us away from salt, but we are going salt anyway based on everything I've read on here and experience in the past (family pools). Our house is just being built, so they will build the pool along with the house, once the exterior of the house is completed, but I included a couple photos of the pool area from the slab they poured last week. I'd love some feedback, especially on the equipment side.

General Specs:
Pool Size: 18'W x 30'L (Water Dimensions)
Pool Depth: 3.5'-5.5' (Water Depths)
Wet Deck: 6'W x 18'L x .5'D
Gallons: Approx.: 18,630
Bench in deep end, entire width of pool

Finishes:
Pool: Wet Edge Primera Stone Sky Blue Treasure
Waterline Tile: Master Tile Subway Stratus White 2x4 Glass Tile
Water Feature Wall: Standing Black Polished RiverRock Tile
Decking: Burl Blanco Limestone (12x24 Runner Pattern)
Coping: Burl Blanco Limestone
Boarder: Black Polished River Rock (Between coping and decking)

Water Features & Lighting:
1x: 8' Jandy Sheer Decent (Any issues with such a wide sheer decent? Considering 2x 4' to avoid issues)
2x: Jandy LED Bubblers
4x: Jandy Laminar Jets
4x 20W Jandy Nicheless Hydrocool LED Lights (Multicolor)

Equipment:
Jandy IAqualink PS-8
Jandy Aquapure Salt
Jandy Fusion w/Nature 2 (I know you guys aren't a fan, what do you recommend?)
Jandy 60SqFt DE Filter (Builder talked us out of a cartridge?)
Jandy VS 2.7HP Filter Pump (Powering Pool & 2 LED Bubblers)
Jandy VS 2.7HP Pump (Powering 8'W Sheer Decent & 4x Laminar Jets)
Cleaner: Robot to be purchased later

Thanks for your input everyone!
Evan

 

[Kozman23]

Our PB is not a salt fan and we had to basically demand it so I want some advice from the experts on here as far as SW equipment goes. Our pool is 18x30 with a large wet deck for approximately 18.5K gallons.

Here is what he's quoted us for equipment:
Jandy IAqualink PS-8
Jandy Aquapure Salt
Jandy Fusion w/Nature 2
Jandy 60SqFt DE Filter
Jandy VS 2.7HP Filter Pump (Powering Pool & 2 LED Bubblers)
Jandy VS 2.7HP Pump (Powering 8'W Sheer Decent & 4x Laminar Jets)

Now from what I've seen on here, it is recommended that the SWG be for approx 2x the gallons of the pool which the Jandy Aquapure is (40K gallons). However, it looks like the Truclear is newer tech but is only rated for 35K gallons. So my question is, which do you guys reccomend? Also he has a Nature 2 on there and I have read most are not a fan. If I don't get it, do I need anything to replace it or is it just additional? Finally, what is your thoughts on the DE filter, our PB talked us out of a cartridge saying it was more work and our city allows a direct backwash line which makes the DE easy.

Thanks for the input.
Evan

 

[ajw22]

Jandy Aquapure PLC1400 generates up to 24 grams an hour of chlorine versus 18 grams an hour for the TrueClear. So you are getting about 30% more chlorine generating capacity with the AquaPure.

The Fusion2 is a waste of money and adds unneeded metals into your pool water. Read Nature2 Fusion - Further Reading

 

[PoolGate]

Skip all that and just tell him you want the FusionSoft 1400. Then never use the mineral cartridge with it. The SWG portion of it is fantastic and the same operation exactly as the Aquapure 1400 except it tends to be cheaper since they are counting on you buying the mineral cartridges which you never will. I would not recommend the TruClear it is more for smaller, stand-alone use cases.

I have used both DE and cartridge and would strongly recommend cartridge. I clean my 4 cartridges once a season maybe 2 times at best. There is also less plumbing with cartridge due to no multi-port valve.

 

[ajw22]

Skip all that and just tell him you want the FusionSoft 1400. Then never use the mineral cartridge with it. The SWG portion of it is fantastic and the same operation exactly as the Aquapure 1400 except it tends to be cheaper since they are counting on you buying the mineral cartridges which you never will. I would not recommend the TruClear it is more for smaller, stand-alone use cases.

You are assuming the Pool Builder will pass along the cost savings of the FusionSoft 1400.

 

[ajw22]

I am not sure of the surface of the Standing Black Polished RiverRock Tile but if it is not smooth it may show white calcium and salt deposits from the spillover water evaporating on it.

What are the model numbers of the Jandy pumps?

 

[Kozman23]

Jandy Aquapure PLC1400 generates up to 24 grams an hour of chlorine versus 18 grams an hour for the TrueClear. So you are getting about 30% more chlorine generating capacity with the AquaPure.

The Fusion2 is a waste of money and adds unneeded metals into your pool water. Read Nature2 Fusion - Further Reading

Thank you, I will stick with one or the other, but either way no minerals...

Skip all that and just tell him you want the FusionSoft 1400. Then never use the mineral cartridge with it. The SWG portion of it is fantastic and the same operation exactly as the Aquapure 1400 except it tends to be cheaper since they are counting on you buying the mineral cartridges which you never will. I would not recommend the TruClear it is more for smaller, stand-alone use cases.

I have used both DE and cartridge and would strongly recommend cartridge. I clean my 4 cartridges once a season maybe 2 times at best. There is also less plumbing with cartridge due to no multi-port valve.

I'll find out what he's charging for each and go with the less expensive on the SWG, thanks.

I've been leaning more toward the cartridge filter as it seems to be much less maintenance (and don't have to keep DE around the house). He swears DE is easier and I would have to have a multi-port valve anyway as it's required by the city so it makes sense to do it... I'm not convinced, cleaning and replacing cartridges seems much less involved... For this size pool, what size cartridge filter would you recommend? Is bigger better in this case?

I am not sure of the surface of the Standing Black Polished RiverRock Tile but if it is not smooth it may show white calcium and salt deposits from the spillover water evaporating on it.

What are the model numbers of the Jandy pumps?

We are a bit worried about the white deposits, but the rock with glossy and smooth so we should be able to clean it.

I'm not sure on pump part numbers, I realize there are a lot of Jandy "VS 2.7HP" pumps, so I have an email into him asking.

Regards,
Evan

 

[Jimrahbe]

Evan,

I would check with the City about the MVP valve.. I just do not believe that you will need a MVP if you have a cartridge filter.. There is just zero reason for it..

Get the biggest cartridge filter they have.. there is no such thing as too big when talking about VS pump HP or filter size...

Jim R.

 

[PoolGate]

Any 4 cartridge Jandy filter will be fine. But bigger is better! I have Jandy's smallest for my 29k gallon pool and still only clean it once a season.

 

[Jimrahbe]

I have Jandy's smallest for my 29k gallon pool and still only clean it once a season.

PG,

That is because your season is only two weeks long...

Jim R.

 

[Kozman23]

Thanks guys, I will talk to the PB about replacing the DE with a Cartridge and find out the pump model numbers.

Evan

 

[JJ_Tex]

Hey Kozman - It looks like you are sitting on top of a retaining wall (we may be in the same neighborhood). Has your PB mentioned anything about piers? Also make sure they fix any drainage, as you will want to make sure the water is draining correctly, most likely towards the front of the house/street vs over the wall into your neighbor's yard.

Good luck.

 

[Kozman23]

So we went by the PB last night and I discussed everything with him mentioned on here.

As for the Nature 2, he said that was not going to be installed and that they used to install those on SW pools for the winter so puck chlorine could be used, but have since switched to a basic inline chlorinator. He stated the owner will not build a SW pool without a chlorinator to be used in the winter. I know you guys don't suggest puck chlorine, but the chlorinator they are installing is only $80 so I didn't fight him on it, I just won't use it... So in the end, we will get the Aquapure PLC1400 40K Gallon system and an inline chlorinator.

His reasoning for a DE filter was that the City of Prosper requires a backwash line be installed on every pool build regardless of what filter is installed, so why not use it. He also feels the DE is easier to clean, but did agree the cartridge would need less frequent cleaning. We ended up switching the filter to a Jandy CV580 Cartridge Filter per the advice on here.

The pumps they are using are the Jandy E-Pumps (2.7HP) VSSHP270AUT. Is there a better model?

Updated Equipment List and Photos:
Jandy IAqualink PS-8
Jandy E-Pump VS 2.7HP (VSSHP270AUT) Filter Pump (Powering Pool & 2 LED Bubblers)
Jandy E-Pump VS 2.7HP (VSSHP270AUT) (Powering 8'W Sheer Decent & 4x Laminar Jets)
Jandy CV580 Cartridge Filter
Jandy Aquapure PLC1400 SWG
Jandy Autofill (unsure of which model)
Cleaner: Robot to be purchased later

Any other suggestions? You guys have been very helpful, we are getting there...

Regards,
Evan

 

[PoolGate]

All great solutions good job! The MPV is dumb I would be surprised if that is actually required. But whatever. The pumps are great same model I have.

The thing you need to make sure of before committing is what interfaces are you getting with the iAqualink? You want to nail this down as interfaces are very expensive. There is the PDA, OneTouch and other physical controllers. Then there is the phone interface which you will get regardless. Make sure of what package you are getting. There are two; IQ20-RS and IQ20a. The IQ20a is useless so make sure it is the full IQ20-RS package. That one allows you full programming from the web interface. Make sure he writes down on the contract "IQ20-RS" or else he will play dumb when you don't get it.

Also Jandy has a variable position "Smart JVA" controller. I would ask your builder to put these in for some of your JVAs. They allow you to control your JVAs in 5% increments. Don't be surprised if your builder claims to have never heard of these though.

 

[JamesW]

I don't think that you need a second pump for the sheer descent.

You want the water to go through the filter anyway.

The sheer descent has a thin slit that can get clogged easily by unfiltered water.

When using the sheer, just close the returns and the flow should be good.

A waste line might be required, but a multiport is almost definitely not required.

Just install a 3 way Jandy NeverLube valve between the pump and the filter with one leg going to the waste line.

 

[PoolGate]

I don't think that you need a second pump for the sheer descent.

You want the water to go through the filter anyway.

The sheer descent has a thin slit that can get clogged easily by unfiltered water.

When using the sheer, just close the returns and the flow should be good.

A waste line might be required, but a multiport is almost definitely not required.

Just install a 3 way Jandy NeverLube valve between the pump and the filter with one leg going to the waste line.

James that's an 8 foot sheer with 4 laminars. I think for sure a 2nd pump is needed. I have that same pump and a 36" sheer. If I direct all the water to my single 36" sheer it is enough and I get a good sheer effect. But I don't think it could handle much more.

____
Also: Look into the other cool water features Jandy has. Some of the sheers are lighted and some do other things.

Water Features | Jandy

Build the perfect pool environment with Jandy professional-grade equipment. With a full line of pumps, filters, heaters, lights, valves, water sanitizers, and the automation solutions to control it all, Jandy has the complete package for any pool.

www.jandy.com

 

[JamesW]

It's the same pump either way. So, the flow will be the same.

You need to filter the water to prevent small debris from clogging the sheer.

Assuming 12 gpm/ft, you need about 100 gpm for the sheer, which is within the capability of the pump.

Just make sure that the plumbing is big enough on the suction and going to the sheer.

When you want to use the sheer, just close everything else.

 

[Kozman23]

All great solutions good job! The MPV is dumb I would be surprised if that is actually required. But whatever. The pumps are great same model I have.

The thing you need to make sure of before committing is what interfaces are you getting with the iAqualink? You want to nail this down as interfaces are very expensive. There is the PDA, OneTouch and other physical controllers. Then there is the phone interface which you will get regardless. Make sure of what package you are getting. There are two; IQ20-RS and IQ20a. The IQ20a is useless so make sure it is the full IQ20-RS package. That one allows you full programming from the web interface. Make sure he writes down on the contract "IQ20-RS" or else he will play dumb when you don't get it.

Also Jandy has a variable position "Smart JVA" controller. I would ask your builder to put these in for some of your JVAs. They allow you to control your JVAs in 5% increments. Don't be surprised if your builder claims to have never heard of these though.

So I'm not sure what the MPV is, but a backwash line is required from the city, here is the excerpt from the code I just looked up:
"2. All pools and spas shall have a p-trap and backwash line connected to the sanitary sewer. Backwash lines shall be installed at time of inspection. If the pool is being built on a lot that has a septic system, a filter cartridge may be used. "

We are getting the iAqualink RS, but I will make sure it is in writing, thanks for the tip.

As for the Jandy Smart JVA Controller, the PB mentioned that we will be able to open and close valves (IE turn on an off certain water features) via the iAqualink, but that we would have to set the pressure (how much the valve is open) on the valve itself. Would this controller allow full automation of the valve so we could increase water pressure from iAqualink also? This would be nice for the Sheer and Laminars to adjust them...

I don't think that you need a second pump for the sheer descent.

You want the water to go through the filter anyway.

The sheer descent has a thin slit that can get clogged easily by unfiltered water.

When using the sheer, just close the returns and the flow should be good.

A waste line might be required, but a multiport is almost definitely not required.

Just install a 3 way Jandy NeverLube valve between the pump and the filter with one leg going to the waste line.

We want the ability to have the 8' Sheer, 2 Bubblers and 4 Laminars all going at the same time without worrying about pressure to the sheer which is why the PB added the second pump. I also don't want to have to manually close any valves when turning on water features, just press the button and it happens. Could you clarify a bit further if there is a good way to accomplish this with one pump? Also you mention filtering, can only one pump go through the filter or is there a way for both to go through it? I did not think about this, but I'm sure you're getting at the fact that two pumps would require two filters to have them both filtered.

Evan

 

[PoolGate]

So I'm not sure what the MPV is, but a backwash line is required from the city, here is the excerpt from the code I just looked up:
"2. All pools and spas shall have a p-trap and backwash line connected to the sanitary sewer. Backwash lines shall be installed at time of inspection. If the pool is being built on a lot that has a septic system, a filter cartridge may be used. "

We are getting the iAqualink RS, but I will make sure it is in writing, thanks for the tip.

As for the Jandy Smart JVA Controller, the PB mentioned that we will be able to open and close valves (IE turn on an off certain water features) via the iAqualink, but that we would have to set the pressure (how much the valve is open) on the valve itself. Would this controller allow full automation of the valve so we could increase water pressure from iAqualink also? This would be nice for the Sheer and Laminars to adjust them...


We want the ability to have the 8' Sheer, 2 Bubblers and 4 Laminars all going at the same time without worrying about pressure to the sheer which is why the PB added the second pump. I also don't want to have to manually close any valves when turning on water features, just press the button and it happens. Could you clarify a bit further if there is a good way to accomplish this with one pump? Also you mention filtering, can only one pump go through the filter or is there a way for both to go through it? I did not think about this, but I'm sure you're getting at the fact that two pumps would require two filters to have them both filtered.

Evan

Don't overthink it too much you'll get analysis paralysis! You do not need 2 filters. The setup as built by your builder is fine. With all those water features (IMO) you do need 2 pumps. Make sure to check with your utility for rebates on variable speed pumps. They can be substantial!

For the SmartJVA controller, it will allow you to open/close your automated valves and control them in 5% increments from your phone/controller. But again, it is likely your builder has never heard of these. Ask him if he's ever heard of Jandy's "SmartJVA" controller.

 

[Kozman23]

Don't overthink it too much you'll get analysis paralysis! You do not need 2 filters. The setup as built by your builder is fine. With all those water features (IMO) you do need 2 pumps. Make sure to check with your utility for rebates on variable speed pumps. They can be substantial!

For the SmartJVA controller, it will allow you to open/close your automated valves and control them in 5% increments from your phone/controller. But again, it is likely your builder has never heard of these. Ask him if he's ever heard of Jandy's "SmartJVA" controller.

Sounds good thank you.

I looked up the Smart JVA and it sounds like exactly what I want. I told the PB I wanted to be able to change the heights of the Laminars and he said it would have to be done manually, but that once it was set the iAqualink would turn them on and off. This sounds like I could adjust them on the fly so I will bring it up.

As for the Laminars, I asked my PB and he was unsure, but I am looking to control the color of each Laminar (or at least two and two), is this possible? With moving all 4 Laminars to the one side, I would like 2 of them to be at one height and one color and two of them to be a different height and color. Sounds like the Smart JVA takes care of the height, just need the color part.