Proper endpoint detection for CH test?

[TazDoug]

Hi all,
My CH is very high and I want to ensure I know how to properly measure it.
It is somewhere between 700 and 1000, I think.
The color needs to change from red to blue, right?
Is it when it just starts to change?
Or, is it when it stops changing and is blue?
I think I read somewhere that it is the latter.
Is there a good video to show this?
There probably is, I just haven't found it yet.
Anyway, thanks in advance for your input.
Much appreciated!

Doug

 

[ajw22]

When the drop does not change the color more blue subtract that drop from the count.

 

[JamesW]

Get speedstir. It will help you with the test.

TFtestkits.net

tftestkits.net

 

[TazDoug]

Thanks, JamesW!
I didn't get a Speedstir magnetic Stirrer because I felt $50 was pricey for it.
I built my own.

Doug

 

[JamesW]

Can you share how you made your own stirrer?

 

[TazDoug]

From the 1st video, "Count the number of drops added until no further color change".
This is the key idea. When the CH is very high, it helps to use the directions, "when it is anticipated the CH will be very high".

 

[JamesW]

Are you getting a good test result now?

 

[TazDoug]

JamesW: Here's a youtube link that I used to get myself started on this:

And, I've been looking into this a bit since I decided $50 was too much to pay. There are lot's of good ideas out there on this.
I know I've spent more than $50 trying to figure out just the right parts to buy to bring the cost down but it has been fun and interesting and a learning experience.

 

[TazDoug]

JamesW: In response to your question, "Are you getting a good test result now?", I am still working to be completely confident. My CH is at least 700 and it's challenging to clearly see just when the color has stopped changing to a different shade of blue. Probably the bottom line here is that I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and drain much of the water in my pool to get the CH down to something reasonable and since we're still addressing drought issues here in the Bay Area in CA, I need to have a discussion with the city to see if I can get some kind of discount to do this. My water bill currently is on the order of $60/month just as it is.

 

[Killer95Stang]

JamesW: In response to your question, "Are you getting a good test result now?", I am still working to be completely confident. My CH is at least 700 and it's challenging to clearly see just when the color has stopped changing to a different shade of blue. Probably the bottom line here is that I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and drain much of the water in my pool to get the CH down to something reasonable and since we're still addressing drought issues here in the Bay Area in CA, I need to have a discussion with the city to see if I can get some kind of discount to do this. My water bill currently is on the order of $60/month just as it is.

A lot of people in So Cal, including myself manage crystal clear TF pools with high CH. The key for me is to keep my PH between 7.6 - 7.2 at all times and to make sure my CSI is within acceptable limits. I've gone over 1000ppm with no scaling or scale build up on my swcg cell. I've never drained my pool beyond maybe a foot of water in the six years since built. It takes proactive steps like draining water before predicted heavy rains, but it can be done.

 

[TazDoug]

Killer95Stang: Thanks for your feedback. Good to hear that even with high CH one can still prevent scaling and manage proper water balance. Sounds like you have a salt pool and I'm strongly thinking about going that direction as it seems like it would be significantly less work. I am so DONE with brushing my pool because of yellow algae. Seems like having a swcg is the way to do this. Did you have non salt and then changed to salt? I'd like to hear about it if you have.