Proper endpoint detection for CH test?

TazDoug

Member
Jul 3, 2019
19
San Jose, CA
Hi all,
My CH is very high and I want to ensure I know how to properly measure it.
It is somewhere between 700 and 1000, I think.
The color needs to change from red to blue, right?
Is it when it just starts to change?
Or, is it when it stops changing and is blue?
I think I read somewhere that it is the latter.
Is there a good video to show this?
There probably is, I just haven't found it yet.
Anyway, thanks in advance for your input.
Much appreciated!

Doug
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
16,072



Get speedstir. It will help you with the test.

 
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TazDoug

Member
Jul 3, 2019
19
San Jose, CA
From the 1st video, "Count the number of drops added until no further color change".
This is the key idea. When the CH is very high, it helps to use the directions, "when it is anticipated the CH will be very high".
 

TazDoug

Member
Jul 3, 2019
19
San Jose, CA
JamesW: Here's a youtube link that I used to get myself started on this:
And, I've been looking into this a bit since I decided $50 was too much to pay. There are lot's of good ideas out there on this.
I know I've spent more than $50 trying to figure out just the right parts to buy to bring the cost down but it has been fun and interesting and a learning experience.
 

TazDoug

Member
Jul 3, 2019
19
San Jose, CA
JamesW: In response to your question, "Are you getting a good test result now?", I am still working to be completely confident. My CH is at least 700 and it's challenging to clearly see just when the color has stopped changing to a different shade of blue. Probably the bottom line here is that I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and drain much of the water in my pool to get the CH down to something reasonable and since we're still addressing drought issues here in the Bay Area in CA, I need to have a discussion with the city to see if I can get some kind of discount to do this. My water bill currently is on the order of $60/month just as it is.
 

Killer95Stang

Well-known member
Aug 17, 2012
821
Sunny SoCal
JamesW: In response to your question, "Are you getting a good test result now?", I am still working to be completely confident. My CH is at least 700 and it's challenging to clearly see just when the color has stopped changing to a different shade of blue. Probably the bottom line here is that I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and drain much of the water in my pool to get the CH down to something reasonable and since we're still addressing drought issues here in the Bay Area in CA, I need to have a discussion with the city to see if I can get some kind of discount to do this. My water bill currently is on the order of $60/month just as it is.
A lot of people in So Cal, including myself manage crystal clear TF pools with high CH. The key for me is to keep my PH between 7.6 - 7.2 at all times and to make sure my CSI is within acceptable limits. I've gone over 1000ppm with no scaling or scale build up on my swcg cell. I've never drained my pool beyond maybe a foot of water in the six years since built. It takes proactive steps like draining water before predicted heavy rains, but it can be done.
 

TazDoug

Member
Jul 3, 2019
19
San Jose, CA
Killer95Stang: Thanks for your feedback. Good to hear that even with high CH one can still prevent scaling and manage proper water balance. Sounds like you have a salt pool and I'm strongly thinking about going that direction as it seems like it would be significantly less work. I am so DONE with brushing my pool because of yellow algae. Seems like having a swcg is the way to do this. Did you have non salt and then changed to salt? I'd like to hear about it if you have.