Prep for reviving out of service pool: Currently in pad rebuild phase

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
228
Austin TX
With the number of fittings and connections you have it would be easy to accidentally miss one on glue day.
You bet. Actually I'll be dismantling the whole thing documenting fittings and rough sizes for each module. A few of the fittings will be replaced with ones that weren't available when I set this up, so there's another variable. Will be able to do some of it inside again, but most will have to be done in place on the pad. That's why I have a battery operated miter saw. :ROFLMAO: Experience from the previous pad build years ago and lots of irrigation work here. 🙃
 
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RDspaguy

In The Industry
Mar 21, 2020
699
Cabool, Mo
Well done!
The biggest issue I see is going to be priming the system with your suction side going so high. You might consider getting that a bit lower or it's going to be a (bigger) struggle to get it started. If that is not possible, get a garden hose connector in up high on the suction so you can also prime the up-pipe coming out of the pump and not just the pump basket.
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
228
Austin TX
The biggest issue I see is going to be priming the system with your suction side going so high.
Pad is below pool water level. That's why there's a 2-way right before the pump to stop flow when strainer is cleaned. I believe the Main/Skimmer 3-way is also below pool water level and at about the same height that it was in the old system. Will check on that further. The filter IS significantly higher than the old one was though. Is there a max height difference that should be considered between pump output and filter input?

Thanks!
 
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RDspaguy

In The Industry
Mar 21, 2020
699
Cabool, Mo
Ok. If your pump is below water level you are good. Pressure side of pump is not terribly concerned about height except with regard to head at priming, which shouldn't be a problem in this case. I have plumbed heat exchangers on roofs with no issues usings a VSP. Your solar array is more of a challenge to the pump than your filter height will ever be, and it is no problem either.
Really nice job making it all fit. I have worked on many nightmare pool pads and can appreciate the planning and effort that went into this one. I couldn't have done better myself. :goodjob:
 

splashpad

Bronze Supporter
Aug 2, 2017
2,708
SE Kansas!
Trying to catch up, but throwing a thought out there, I would vote for a sand filter, there is NO lifting and you can add DE powder when you want/need finer filtering :D
We love ours! If you get "winter" in your area, simply drain the water out and take the multi-port valve inside :D (it stays in place)

:edit to add: I'm further through the thread, stellar DIY! And you can ignore my suggestion above, rofl!!
 
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dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
228
Austin TX
Thinking about the plumbing for my blower again. So far my advice has been:
Hartford loop at the pad is worthless. Won't accomplish anything except maybe keeping the blower dry.
Use a spring type check valve...
Right now wondering about the location of the check valve. Have seen diagrams of them positioned both above and below water line - does it make a difference? If below water line, would it be a good idea to put a 2-way Jandy below it so it can be replaced without draining pool?

Going to place blower on left side of pad instead of right side at air pipe entry for better filter access. Looks I'm half-way to putting a psuedo Hartford loop on the right side just to route the pipe to the left, so might as well have it go 13" above max pool water line. So would the check valve go on the water-side leg of the loop or the leg up to the blower? Plan to have the check valve installed with threaded connections, so if on the loop, would need to have a union too so it could be replaced.

blower layout 1 pad back.jpg
blower layout 2 pad right.jpg
Thoughts?
 
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mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
13,463
Pleasanton, CA
At that height, I don't think the blower is going to need a check valve. Also, why not just leave the blower in the corner where the pipe is coming up? They don't take up that much space.
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
228
Austin TX
At that height, I don't think the blower is going to need a check valve. Also, why not just leave the blower in the corner where the pipe is coming up? They don't take up that much space.
Space is a premium in the tiny pad. Only have about 20" from filter (positioned mid-point back wall) to right wall and path to service the filter is probably going to be less than 15", so can't afford space for blower on that side. Have already ordered check valve, so might as well put it in. Where?
 

mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
13,463
Pleasanton, CA
It shouldn't matter if the check valve is below the water line other than installation. Union is OK too but what is that for? I would not glue the blower on the line anyway.
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
228
Austin TX
It shouldn't matter if the check valve is below the water line other than installation. Union is OK too but what is that for? I would not glue the blower on the line anyway.
Then I'll put it above the water line and make it easy. I've read that the spring check valves can get messed up & can't be rebuilt like the Jandys, so a union makes replacement easier.
 

mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
13,463
Pleasanton, CA
I would not use that type of check valve. The springs are much too strong and will block much of the air flow. Jandy's have springs too and are self closing but require much less pressure to open and close them. Honestly, you are much better off without the check valve.
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
228
Austin TX
I would not use that type of check valve. The springs are much too strong and will block much of the air flow. Jandy's have springs too and are self closing but require much less pressure to open and close them. Honestly, you are much better off without the check valve.
Too much force? I bought one supposedly designed for this? Amazon: spa spring check valve

Gonna think about your no check valve recommendation. Just caught me off guard with that. :oops:
 

dianedebuda

Gold Supporter
Jan 2, 2018
228
Austin TX
Electrical taking f-o-r-e-v-e-r. o_O But pretty much done except shed end for the pad/shed 3-way lights.

Current pad front
Pool Pad Electrical 1 - front.jpg
Pool Pad Electrical 1a - front.jpg
pad left
Pool Pad Electrical 2 - left.jpg
Pool Pad Electrical 2a - left.jpg
pad right
Pool Pad Electrical 3 - right.jpg
Pool Pad Electrical 3a - right.jpg
Did basic wiring of the IntelliCenter
Line In, Control, SWG, Surge Protector
IntelliCenter wiring 1a - Line In, Control, SWG.jpg
grounds
IntelliCenter wiring 2a - grounds.jpg
neutrals
IntelliCenter wiring 3 - neutrals.jpg
Temporarily connected the hots to breakers for testing. Since wiring in shed of 3-way lights is not complete, couldn't test those, but everything else except the pool light works. Pool light is a 12V color LED Intellibrite; transformer appears to be ok, so appears to be the light itsself. Sun Seeker is mentioned here as a good replacement board, but unfortunately Pentair changed the layout in 2010, so my 2008 version is too old for the fix. :( So I had to order a whole new light with cord - which means water level has to be lowered to put it in. Was planning to lower anyhow to replace the ball valves with Jandys for pipe entry/exit (see pad right at floor level), but will now have to adjust time for the arrival of the light instead later this week as planned. :cautious:

The Intellibrite never seemed to fit the niche quite right. Sun Seeker said to measure the diameter, but for some reason I just was not all that excited about putting my arm into the swamp for this - particularly when I'd seen a (the?) small snake this morning doing laps. Expect I'm going to again have a problem with mounting the light. :cry:

Still have to add the blower air line, a couple of low-pressure irrigation valves, an irrigation valve for timed add water to pool, route some irrigation wires, and reconnect the water line to the hose bibs before putting the pool plumbing in for real. Maybe my quip about taking until August was not that far fetched. 😰:LOL:

On a lighter note, scooped half the pool for the first time in weeks. Nothing but a little light muck which I should be able to vacuum to waste when lowering the water level. (y)
 
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