Does anyone know if you can calibrate the temperataure sensor on a Pool Pilot? I just installed a DIG-220 with and SC-48. My heaters are not on and the pool reads 87 degrees but the Pool Pilot reads around 97 degrees.
Is the pump running? The temperature sensor is at the top of the manifold. If the pump isn't running and the sun is shining on the manifold, or the enclosure the manifold is in is hot from the sun, the water in the manifold can get quite warm. It typically takes my unit several minutes to show an acurate tempurature after the pump is turned on.
I, too, have noticed that my PoolPilot seems to read a few degrees higher than the thermometer. Of course, I'm not sure if the thermometer is accurate either. Hopefully PoolSean can chime in with some information on your calibration question.
The pump is running. All the pool equipment is located in a relatively shaded area. I have two heaters which both have temperature displays. They both read the same where as the DIG-220 is off around 8 to 9 degrees. Neither of the heaters are on. I am in Florida and my solar blanket does a good job keeping the pool around 87 degrees during the afternoon.
Fraid to say that 10 degrees off is a concern. 2-4 is not. Unfortunately the Digital is not capable of calibration (however, the Total Control model is).
With this temp difference, I would recommend contacting the factory and arranging a service call, or having the installer check it out.
Things to verify:
1) Sufficient flow to the manifold - check the bottom manifold check valve to ensure that the check valve is closed when the pump is off (indicated by the red gasket on the inlet side of the check valve moving all the way to the influent side), and that the check valve is opened about 1/8" to 1/2" when the pump is on.
If the check valve is stuck opened, there may not be sufficient water flow to saturate the tri-sensor, which can give a false temp reading.
2) Tri-sensor cord is securely connected to the tri-sensor - remove and inspect for any debris and make sure when reinserting, that you align the two components (there is a groove on the tri-sensor that aligns with a keyway on the tri-sensor plug.
3) While the tri-sensor is off, inspect the tri-sensor pins. There should be 6 pins that are straight. If you do not align (as indicated in #2), you can bend a pin.
4) Run a TEST POOL PILOT and let me know what the CELL AMPS and VOLTS show - if the display shows lower than the normal range, it can indicate that you have 110 volts wired to the unit (factory wired for 220 volts).
Funny thing, after a few days it seems to have worked itself out. The reading is 1 to 2 degrees off. I didn't make any changes. It just started to work. I will update this post in a few days to let you know where its at. I appreciate all the help.
Funny thing. When I first powered up the unit, it was about 20 degrees off. The next day I pulled the sensor plug off while everything was on. The readings spiked back up to 112 but this time went down to 96 which was still about 10 off. I tried it again several times but it seemed to stay about 9-10 off. A couple of day later it seemed to be only 2 degrees off. I haven't checked it today, but I will give an update later.
Thanks again. I researched SWGs for about a year and decided on the AutoPilot. I like knowing the company employees believe in the product they are selling.