Pool Water is Cloudy


Apr 14, 2017
Cave Creek, AZ
Hello, I am new to this forum and could use some help. On 4/6 I arrived back home from a work trip to find my pool quite yellow and dirty. I shocked the pool, added some soda ash (this was based on water test results I had my wife get from Leslie's...I was too busy to do it myself). After doing this the pool was back to normal within a day. I was out of town again last weekend and upon returning this past Monday found the pool quite cloudy...and it's stayed that way all week. The last 2 chem tests checked out fine. Filter PSi is at 10 (low end) and my filter cartridges have been sprayed off 3x (the filter, pump, and cartridges are about 14 months old)

I recently added more shock to see if that would help and it hasn't. Here are the most recent readings (as of 8a PST on 4/14) using my Taylor K-20076 test kit:

1.) Free Chlorine = 12ppm (it was normal range earlier this week but I added more shock)
*Per my test chart I need to add about 5lbs of sodium thiosulfate 5-hydrate to get this back down in the 2-4 range

2.) Combined Chlorine = 0

3.) pH = 7.3
*Could be a bit higher; per chart I should add 2lbs of soda ash (baking soda will work too right?)

4.) Total Alkalinity = 110ppm (normal)

I am at a loss for why the pool is cloudy. Filter cartridges are still very new and look to be in fine shape. I have noticed that upon re-running the filter after cleaning the grids the past 2 times, the return jet blows out dirty water for the first 5 seconds or so. It seems that the filter isn't doing it's job but again, it's still very new and the cartridges look to be fine. Help!! Thanks in advance.


Silver Supporter
Aug 23, 2012
S. Louisiana
welcome to TFP forum maverick. I am an inexperienced newb myself, but I will give you some tips on what the elders of the site will tell you, and give you a little head start.

our whole website and the methods we use (which are proven time and again) are based upon sound testing, the pool school formulas given by the site, and never stepping foot again into a pool store...lol

you can start off by reading pool school, and finding out what your CYA reading is. anytime your water is not sparkling clean you need to do a SLAM (a TFP term), step by step directions in the above header can be found. more important than step by step directions are the reasons why!

hope I gave you a head start.... again welcome, and the more experienced will be along shortly.



TFP Guide
Apr 12, 2016
Tucson, AZ
First of all, welcome to TFP!!!

Let's back way, way up, as there are a lot of problems with what you're saying you need to do.

First of all, what test kit do you have? I don't see a result for a K-20076, do you mean a K-2006?

Secondly, the most important number that you're missing is CYA. The level of Cyanuric Acid is what tells you how much chlorine you need in your pool to keep it clean and clear. The pool store's assertion than 2-4 is the correct level of chlorine for a pool is incredibly outdated and incorrect. If you have a K-2006, you'll want to run this test and let us know the level of CYA so we can figure out how much chlorine you need. If, for whatever reason, we discover that your chlorine level is too high, you don't have to add expensive chemicals to bring it down - just leave it alone and the chlorine will burn off naturally (and for free). I suspect, given the cloudiness and water problems you've been having, that your daily chlorine level has been too low.

Next, 7.3pH is ok. No need to raise it - let's keep it between 7.2 and 8. If you do need to raise it, there are free ways to do so without paying for "pH Up" or other chemicals. :)

Finally, for now, stop adding "shock" or any other forum of solid chlorine. I suspect your CYA is very high, your CH is likely high as well being as you're in AZ.

Using your own test kit (the pool store's test results are often completely wrong), we need all of the test numbers in this format please:


If you do not have a K-2006, then you'll need a complete test kit so we can help you. We recommend the TF-100 (best value with the most reagents you'll need for the money), or the K-2006C (C means it has enough reagent to get you through the season). If you're getting a TF-100, I'd recommend the XL addon - you're going to need to SLAM and will need the extra test reagents. A good source for these tests is here: TFTestkits.net

While we're waiting on the tests, you have some homework to do!

Please read the following links so that you can understand how it is that we can help people to get their pool clear, and keep it clear for years at a time without having to shock:
The basics: Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool Chemistry: Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to chlorinate the pool: Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
How to clear a cloudy/green pool: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain