Pool Timer Wiring

[SheronaH2O]

Thanks in advance for reading. Looking to replace pool timer - Currently Have Paragon 4004-71M mechanical timer (1997 and picked up a Dewenwils digital timer (2hp 120-277vac 40amp). Old timer is beat only allowing on/off.

Set up from panel is 1x double pole 30amp breaker for “pool equipment” and 1x single pole 15amp breaker for “pool lights” (please see pics for detail - labels with a grain of salt - re-wired during solar install and may have been hastily labeled by tech ).

Current timer has 2x black wire in/out set up, I believe line & load

Bypassing the Timer are 1x white, 1x red, 1x green wire - entering box from left and leaving box at bottom along with 2 black connected wires.

wires from timer box feeding;
- deep end pool light,
- 3 receptacle tower containing from bottom up motor on/switch switch, pool light on/off switch, GFCI outlet
- Pool Motor - 1hp, 115/208-230 amps 16/8

QUESTIONS

am I right in figuring this is currently wired for 1x 240v and should be wired for such in the new timer (diagram 4) and would someone be willing to provide more detail on the wire set up including in/out and going old to new

are the wires which bypass the current timer all feeding the light and GFCI? and with the new timer should they be installed or continue to bypass

Can post more pics if needed. Thanks!

 

[Poolbreh]

am I right in figuring this is currently wired for 1x 240v and should be wired for such in the new timer (diagram 4) and would someone be willing to provide more detail on the wire set up including in/out and going old to new

It appears so, only way to be certain is to test with a multimeter. It looks like the line side comes in from the left.

are the wires which bypass the current timer all feeding the light and GFCI? and with the new timer should they be installed or continue to bypass

Most likely, they appear to be 120v from the neutral. Continue to bypass. Not seeing an option for both 120v/240v. You should always test to verify voltage anything else is an assumption. Know where the wires come from and where the wires go.

 

[SheronaH2O]

will do, appreciate the feedback

 

[HermanTX]

Your breAker is a a double pole 240v 15amp - max is 15 amps (not 30). It feeds the old timer on slots 1 and 4 which are the LINE inputs
The slots 2 and 3 are LOAD which is where the pump wires appear to connect - the 2 black wires.
You don’t show in picture but the red, green and white is for your light which is coming from the single pole 15 amp breaker. It must run to the GFCI socket and light switch which is not in the picture.

 

[Jimrahbe]

H2O.

It appears to me that your are correct..

The only thing being controlled by the old timer is your pump. The other wires go directly to the pool.

You would use set up #4.. (They say in error that the voltage between L1 and L2 is 120 volts, when it is really 240 Volts AC.)

Old Pin 1 goes to new pin L (L1)
Old pin 4 goes to new pin N (L2)
Jumper L to Com1
Jumper N to Com 2
Old pin 2 goes to new Pin NO1
Old pin 3 goes to new Pin NO2

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[SheronaH2O]

Your breAker is a a double pole 15amp - max is 15 amps (not 30). It feeds the old timer on slots 1 and 4 which are the LINE inputs
The slots 2 and 3 are LOAD which is where the pump wires appear to connect - the 2 black wires.
You don’t show in picture but the red, green and white is for your light which is coming from the single pole 15 amp breaker. It must run to the GFCI socket and light switch which is not in the picture.

Ok, so Amps are not additive in double pole breaker, appreciate the info.

 

[SheronaH2O]

H2O.

It appears to me that your are correct..

The only thing being controlled by the old timer is your pump. The other wires go directly to the pool.

You would use set up #4.. (They say in error that the voltage between L1 and L2 is 120 volts, when it is really 240 Volts AC.)

Old Pin 1 goes to new pin L (L1)
Old pin 4 goes to new pin N (L2)
Jumper L to Com1
Jumper N to Com 2
Old pin 2 goes to new Pin NO1
Old pin 3 goes to new Pin NO2

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks for the succinct run down. helps when it seems like this same model has various brand names and likely mass produced overseas where instructions can get mistranslated.