Pool Pump Won't Make a Sound

There is no return path to panel. His ground allowed the return path. He also tested the bus bar and got 230v, so assume he is testing accurately. But I could be wrong.
A test between the breaker lugs, if one side is lost, would result in a 0 from the breaker. Needs to test each lug to ground/neutral. Testing error. May just need to trip and reset the breaker if that is the case.
 
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One leg is live and one is dead.

Both test at 120 volts relative to ground because the voltage from the live leg goes through the motor to the opposite terminal.

When testing from terminal to terminal, you are getting the same 120 volt source and that measures as 0 volts "difference".

If you disconnected the lines from the motor, one would test at 120 to ground and the other would test as 0 to ground.

Probably a bad breaker.
 
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One leg is live and one is dead.

Both test at 120 volts relative to ground because the voltage from the live leg goes through the motor to the opposite terminal.

When testing from terminal to terminal, you are getting the same 120 volt source and that measures as 0 volts "difference".

If you disconnected the lines from the motor, one would test at 120 to ground and the other would test as 0 to ground.

Probably a bad breaker.
Which is where this all started. :laughblue:
 
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It was the breaker. I grabbed a 2 pole 20amp from Lowes and installed it to see if it would work before ordering the GFCI one that’s considerably more money online. It’s an old CH model so it’s hard to find/expensive right now around $180-210.
Thanks for all your help everyone!
 
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Check your door label for compatible breakers.



 

Designed to fit virtually any panel​

Eaton's UL classified breakers are designed and tested to be both mechanically and electrically interchangeable with circuit breakers manufactured by General Electric, Thomas & Betts, ITE/Siemens, Murray, Crouse-Hinds, and Square D.

In short, Square D compatible breakers are Siemens, Cutler Hammer, Eaton, GE Breaker, Murray, Westinghouse, and Home Fitline.
 
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the door panel is all rubbed off. it’s a cutler hammer i’m replacing which is an Eaton now from what I can tell.

I couldnt find others that work for CH220GFT model. Siemens and Square D are different shapes. Compared current breaker to ones at Lowes today. Eaton is mostly type BR now instead of the old Cutler Hammer style.
 

Designed to fit virtually any panel​

Eaton's UL classified breakers are designed and tested to be both mechanically and electrically interchangeable with circuit breakers manufactured by General Electric, Thomas & Betts, ITE/Siemens, Murray, Crouse-Hinds, and Square D.
Yeah so I think the difference here is that my panel is possibly an old Cutler Hammer because that’s what is the main breaker panel in my basement. When I search these Eaton UL breakers the one I found specifically says it won’t work on old CH panels. House is very old but pool is only 17-18 years old so I don’t know why they went with such an old style panel for the outdoor panel.

I could be missing something tho.
 
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Check your door label for compatible breakers.




the door panel is all rubbed off. it’s a cutler hammer i’m replacing which is an Eaton now from what I can tell.

I couldnt find others that work for CH220GFT model. Siemens and Square D are different shapes. Compared current breaker to ones at Lowes today. Eaton is mostly type BR now instead of the old Cutler Hammer style.
Eaton owns Cutler Hammer since the mid 1970s. Type BR and CH are completely different in the way they mount and will not fit each other's panel. Because of the huge demand for pool repair in the Southwest last year, the availability of what were very common items has dried up and prices gone crazy. Even getting the more common type BR is getting difficult.
 
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