Pool Pump Won't Make a Sound

Kdraque3

Member
Jun 19, 2022
11
Dayton, OH
Hi all - first time posting and first time pool owner as of this past fall. I had my pool pump motor running 24/7 for the last few weeks (it's not on a timer and I had some algae issues to start season and just never shut it off much). Thursday night while trying to turn on the in-pool light, I turned off the pool pump and now it won't turn on. Won't even make a sound.

I tested voltage on the breaker and the wires coming into the back of the pool pump and they're getting the right power (120V). I even replaced the motor start capacitor this afternoon when it came in from Amazon and that didn't change anything either - still no sound at all when I turn on the breaker. I'm guessing there's another switch or capacitor that might be blown or shorted.

For context I'm in southwest Ohio and it was over 90-95F all week this past week in case that affects things. I'm attaching some pictures of the panel, back of motor, and the label on the pool pump.

What else can I try before I wind up buying a new motor?
 

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Poolbreh

In The Industry
Jul 31, 2021
947
San Diego
That’s a dual pole breaker, your pump plug is set for 230v. I’m guessing the breaker on the right is for your pump? You are missing a leg, you should have 230v. It’s probably a bad breaker. If it is 230v wrap some electrical tape around the sleeve of the white wire, so anyone working on it in the future knows it’s not a neutral.
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
4,304
Spring Valley, NY
With 2 legs of power at the pump the next thing I'd check is that swith with the copper you see in the "v" formation. With power off see if you have continuity across both legs. If you don't the the capacitor isn't in powering the motor when it needs to start. There's a centrifugal switch that disengages it once the motor is up to speed but until that point the contact point where they intersect are closed.
 

Kdraque3

Member
Jun 19, 2022
11
Dayton, OH
I tested the V shaped switch and have continuity there with power off so that’s not it.

Any other ideas. What’s the little black circle up top with CET40ABM written on it? Could that engage before the capacitor or V shaped switch?
 

Kdraque3

Member
Jun 19, 2022
11
Dayton, OH
Test across L1 and L2 on the back of the pump. You should have 220-240v it’s nominal. You can test at the 2 terminal screws going into FP CB.
Thanks for your reply - Here's what I was trying to say - I get ~120V for each line to ground. But when I test them L1 and L2 together I get nothing. What does that mean?
 

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1poolman1

In The Industry
Jul 14, 2014
2,223
Sacramento
Is that a breaker issue then? Would replacing the breaker to the pump motor resolve this?
Test the breaker. With it "on" test the voltage between the two terminals. If there is 240v you, most likely, have a break in the wire. If not, most likely bad breaker, BUT, test the two large black wires at the top of the bus. If there isn't 240v there the problem lies at the main panel. You may have had one side of a double-pole breaker trip, its not uncommon.
 
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Kdraque3

Member
Jun 19, 2022
11
Dayton, OH
Test the breaker. With it "on" test the voltage between the two terminals. If there is 240v you, most likely, have a break in the wire. If not, most likely bad breaker, BUT, test the two large black wires at the top of the bus. If there isn't 240v there the problem lies at the main panel. You may have had one side of a double-pole breaker trip, its not uncommon.
I tested and have 230V from the two large black wires at the top of my outside breaker box. I have 0V from the two lines coming out of the breakers to the pump motor. And 0V between L1 and L2 on the pump motor. Replace the breaker?
 
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1poolman1

In The Industry
Jul 14, 2014
2,223
Sacramento
I tested and have 230V from the two large black wires at the top of my outside breaker box. I have 0V from the two lines coming out of the breakers to the pump motor. And 0V between L1 and L2 on the pump motor. Replace the breaker?
Sounds like bad breaker to me. Turn power to the sub-panel off and pull the breaker. Take it to where ever you are going to get a new breaker to match it and don't be too "sticker shocked" over the price of a ground-fault circuit breaker. Look for burns on the bus bar.
 

1poolman1

In The Industry
Jul 14, 2014
2,223
Sacramento
I tested and have 230V from the two large black wires at the top of my outside breaker box. I have 0V from the two lines coming out of the breakers to the pump motor. And 0V between L1 and L2 on the pump motor. Replace the breaker?
Previously you indicated that there was 120v at the motor. If there is 0 coming from both sides of the breaker, there has to be 0 at the motor. Did you test with the breaker "on?" If there is only 120v at the motor, a test between L1 and L2 will be 0. Something not right with the testing.
 

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