Pool pump died when closing

shaffe43

Well-known member
Mar 27, 2014
56
Pittsburgh
My pool pump died right before I added the polyquat 60. I just need to add that and blow out the lines to close the pool.

The water is clear and was at SLAM levels.

I would rather not buy a pump right now, the last one I bought in 2017 was $350 the same one now is $700.

The front seal cracked and leaked water into the motor housing which fried the windings.

I am close to needing a new DE Filter as well, so I would like to take the time to pick the right setup and complete that and any associated plumbing changes next year.

Any thoughts on the best way to get the algicide circulated through the pool?

The only real idea I had was dropping a sump pump into the pool and letting that circulate the water for X amount of days.

The other thing that slightly worries me, is that even though the water is balanced now, will it just go green over the next few days and then I'll be closing a green pool. (Though I am sure that is what happens underneath the cover anyway so maybe it's not a big deal.)

20x40 in-ground pool.

Link to the pump I had before:
 

UKjames

Silver Supporter
May 1, 2020
221
United Kingdom
Pool Size
44000
Surface
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Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I’m no fluid mechanics expert and it would depend on the size of the pump and your pool but I would think that a short period of use of a sump pump would be sufficient to circulate all of the water in the pool. I’d also think that You can add chlorine and circulate that in a similar way. Alternatively robots or brushing can help to circulate I believe.
 
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shaffe43

Well-known member
Mar 27, 2014
56
Pittsburgh
I think I am fine upgrading, I just wanted to take the time and do it the right way.

The only thing that worries me is closing a green pool and potential liner discoloring and ammonia.

But then again, I am sure the water turns green days after the pool is actually closed since it is not circulating.




Currently, I have that single-speed pump and a 36sq ft nautilus DE Filter NS 36 and It is probably about 15 years old.


I do like the DE filter and probably will stay with that type, but I wanted to take the time and pick a proper replacement.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
44,873
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
But then again, I am sure the water turns green days after the pool is actually closed since it is not circulating.
Not really. If chlorine is properly added and the pool is algae free, most pools should open clear and algae free the next spring.
 

shaffe43

Well-known member
Mar 27, 2014
56
Pittsburgh
I am also in the last year of my winter cover. More debris than I would like to admit makes its way through into the pool over the fall and winter months.

I usually have a green swamp when I open up. Even if the polyquat and proper balancing was applied.

Seems like next year is going to be an expensive pool year lol
 

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
3,336
Hernando, Ms
Pool Size
26000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
Fwiw - i have never used polyquat (or any algeacide). I close at slam level for my cya when the water temp is near 60 degrees & falling (mid to late October) & open before it gets higher than that (early April) It has always been crystal clear at opening & still has target level fc.
 

shaffe43

Well-known member
Mar 27, 2014
56
Pittsburgh
Wow!

That's awesome.

Hopefully, when I get a new cover and it keeps all the leaves and debris out I'll be lucky enough for that.

Do you guys put a sump pump on your cover?

Mine gets completely covered w/ leaves so I have always been hesitant to put one on.

The leaves then are in contact w/ the pool water and I think that also helps spread the algae.
 

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
3,336
Hernando, Ms
Pool Size
26000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
In all the years past I have scooped debris/leaves off throughout the off season & used a manual siphon cover pump (the kind with a bulb) on a regular basis- mosquitoes 🦟 breed here year round. Kind of a once every week or so thing - takes about 5 minutes.
This year i have purchased a leaf net cover that i will dump then put back on after the initial leaf drop & an automatic cover pump . No more squeezin the bulb for me 😁
 
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Newdude

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
11,561
NY
Hey Shaffe !! As said above, once the cover goes on and blocks most of the UV, your SLAM level FC will last plenty of time to get you until the algae goes dormant around 60 degrees.

No matter what, plan on opening early next year. If you need to kill any algae, doing so while it is not growing exponentially is a snap. My own went from full blown swamp to clear in about a day and a half, but it did consume my day and a half. :ROFLMAO:

10:30 AM

F9BCF515-1261-4A9C-9D79-132A22987875.jpeg

2 PM. (I drained half but still had to fight 17k gallons)


E992ED5A-8FAF-45DA-9CF4-24B32ECDC1B6.jpeg

12 PM the next day @ 26 hours

F456105D-48AE-4E32-BB8B-1A6EAC74C83C.jpeg
 

ghall6292

Bronze Supporter
Jun 10, 2018
144
North Central PA
I'm in North Central Pa., and right about now, I just do the SLAM/Polyquat thing and cover using a pillow 3/4 inflated. I wait until all/most of the leaves have fallen, maybe Nov. 1st, then spend a good hour or so cleaning off all I can from my winter cover. After that, I just monitor the amount of water/snow on my cover and remove any excessive amount via shovel or pump. Once freeze-up occurs, I don't mess with the pool much.

I also try to get my cover as clean as possible before removing it in the Spring. Saves dumping a bunch of crud in by mistake. My water is almost exactly as I left it come Spring. I have never experienced any algae growth. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 
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