Pool Plumbing With 3 Way Valves

[xpert66]

Morning gang. Few questions I have since pool opening season is coming close:

1. Plumbed my 1st AGP last year and wanted a way to blow out the lines in the winter so I added a few 3 way Jandy's with one port stubbed and temporarily capped. This port when closed does leak a tiny bit. Some have mentioned these valves were not meant for this but it worked well. I cover all equipment in the winter and my pump is hardwired so it would be a pain to disconnect and take in each year. This year with some member recommendations, I am going to add a union with glued caps at this port. My question is would it be better to leave the valve position where all 3 ports are open or continue to have the port with the stub closed? The reason for this question is last year whenever I removed the temporary cap, some water that was built up that came out had algae (I am assuming). I think because that port is closed and capped the water doesn't get filtered and is stagnant.

2. I am planning on adding 2 more 3 way valves at my heater's in/out ports for the same reason for winterizing. (Replace the ball valves in pic) In addition when my heater is not being used, I can use the bypass and open the ports and blow water out of the heater to prevent water from staying in the heater for extended periods. Also last winter I unscrewed the unions at the heater and moved the heater several inches to allow me to blow out water from the heater. It also allowed me to blow out the return line. With 3-way valves this would be prevented. Good/bad idea?

Thanks in advance!

 

[flynwill]

1) I can't tell from your picture but it looks like you have ordinary slip caps on the pipes, not glued. While Unions are nice the are also expensive, I would probably just add a threaded adapter and threaded cap (which suitable application of Teflon tape). You are correct that the Jandy valves are intended as "diverter valves" and are not expected to be totally water tight when off.
2) For the heater, you don't really need any more valves, just add T-fittings with threaded socket on the middle branch of tee, and install a threaded plug.

 

[xpert66]

2) For the heater, you don't really need any more valves, just add T-fittings with threaded socket on the middle branch of tee, and install a threaded plug.

How would I blow out the water from the heater during the season with t-fittings? Don't think I have room anyway so I was thinking of cutting out the 2 ball valves and add 2 3ways.

 

[flynwill]

How would I blow out the water from the heater during the season with t-fittings? Don't think I have room anyway so I was thinking of cutting out the 2 ball valves and add 2 3ways.

I was assuming the existing Ball valves would remain, the tees would be installed between the valve and the heater, but you are correct there isn't a lot of room there. Once installed if you want to blow out the heater close the valves remove the plugs and attache your shopvac or whatever you use to blow it out. Or the more slow approach would be to just remove the top plug and the heater drain plug and wait for it.

Why do you feel the need to drain the heater (other than than when closing for winter)?

Either way the 3-port valves will not reliably isolate the heater, unless you leave the plugs off and let them leak.

 

[xpert66]

I was assuming the existing Ball valves would remain, the tees would be installed between the valve and the heater, but you are correct there isn't a lot of room there. Once installed if you want to blow out the heater close the valves remove the plugs and attache your shopvac or whatever you use to blow it out. Or the more slow approach would be to just remove the top plug and the heater drain plug and wait for it.

Why do you feel the need to drain the heater (other than than when closing for winter)?

Either way the 3-port valves will not reliably isolate the heater, unless you leave the plugs off and let them leak.

There is no drain plug on this heater that's why I wanted a method to blow out the lines not only in the winter but during the season when it's hot and I don't use the heater I don't want water remaining unnecessarily in the heater. Okay I see what you're saying about the three ways possibly letting water allow back into the heater when in the bypass mode. So I guess adding a t-fitting maybe the way to go. Thanks