Pool has large hole in gunite, details below

[LisaS321]

I’m under construction, I’m very gun shy as they have made numerous mistakes. This is my first pool, they installed the bottom drain crooked and I asked if it could be fixed. Without consulting with me first, they came in and jackhammered a large hole in the bottom of my pool, all the way down to the soil and the rebar.
To say I was upset is an understatement, I have a sick feeling that my gunite is now permanently compromised. I have not had plaster yet, that is the next step.
My question, they came out today to repair and all I saw them use was the red bags of Quikrete, NOT the orange. These bags were red and said 50 lb.quick setting. Is that sufficient? They told me they were going to use a high strength quick setting concrete.
I‘m very concerned and would like to get opinions before I allow the plaster. Thank you.
Lisa

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Was the rebar compromised at all by being removed in any way?
Did the QuickCrete bags have a four digest product number on them?

 

[.ben]

Do you have pictures of the hole before the fix? Was the original rebar cut? If so, was new rebar doweled into the shell?

When mixed properly fast setting quickcrete (red bags) will achieve a compressive strength of 4,000 psi, which most likely meets or exceeds the strength of the concrete shell

 

[LisaS321]

Was the rebar compromised at all by being removed in any way?
Did the QuickCrete bags have a four digest product number on them?

No, the rebar was not cut, I checked that. I’m not sure about the 4 digit number, but I did ask them to show me the bags and they are the red bags of Quikrete that say fast setting and are rated at 4000 PSI.

 

[Toxophilite]

How large is the hole? As standard safety procedure, mine had 6 big holes to earth before plastering to ensure water could not float shell. All got filled on plaster day, but admittedly, not with Quikrete, but I doubt what they used was the same strength as gunite. My concern would be jointing, a possible cold joint with bag cement.

 

[LisaS321]

Do you have pictures of the hole before the fix? Was the original rebar cut? If so, was new rebar doweled into the shell?

When mixed properly fast setting quickcrete (red bags) will achieve a compressive strength of 4,000 psi, which most likely meets or exceeds the strength of the concrete shell

I have one photo when he first started, doesn’t show the entire thing. The joke ended up being approx 15” wide by the length of the drain, you could see dirt and rebar all around. I checked, it did not appear as though any of the rebar was cut.
My pool builder just keeps telling me they used a 5000 PSI concrete and he’s lying, the red bags clearly indicate 4000 PSI, like you said. Does a 20% lower PSI matter? Why not just tell me it was 4000 to start with. Like I said, I’m really gun shy with these guys now. I’m attaching the picture.

 

[LisaS321]

How large is the hole? As standard safety procedure, mine had 6 big holes to earth before plastering to ensure water could not float shell. All got filled on plaster day.

Yes, I have those holes as well, about 6-8” in diameter so the pool wouldn’t float, but those are still solid at the bottom. Those are made to blow out from underneath if the water pressure got too great. The home they jackhammered went all the way to the soil underneath, rebar clearly exposed but not cut I don’t believe, it measured about 15-18” wide and longer than the bottom drain? Maybe 24?

 

[Toxophilite]

I see the pic now! That was a bit more.

 

[kimkats]

One thing I would insist on is the pressure test the pipes to make sure they did not do any damage to it to be on the safe side.

 

[.ben]

I feel better knowing the rebar remained intact.

If you have structural engineering drawings (many do not) the minimum compressive strength will be on the drawings. I’m not a pool builder or designer, but I know a little about concrete. I highly doubt your original shell required concrete higher than 4,000 psi.