Pool finally up and running - and tropical storm coming

BowserWowser

Well-known member
Feb 28, 2021
100
Virginia Beach, VA
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
New pool is up and running with the exception of the SWCG (electrician is coming Monday afternoon to wire that up and bond everything). So, some super pool noob questions:
  • When testing, the yellow test on the thingy with the yellow and red sides is the result I log in Pool Math as FC, correct? Everything in the test kit and instructions just says Cl, but Pool School and Pool Math have FC. I know what the abbreviations/acronyms stand for, but are they essentially interchangeable, or am I logging the wrong test result as FC?
  • Assuming I'm testing and logging correctly, my FC is currently high (darker yellow than any on the test, so maybe 7-9?), but my CYA is low (about 40), so that should eventually balance out, right? Then maybe worry about adding more CYA after the storm blows through? (we haven't installed the stairs yet, so no one's swimming in it yet)
  • We have the remnants of storm Elsa heading our way. Should just be rain and wind by the time it gets here later this afternoon. My FC is already high (I have read on here that seems to be good in preparing for a storm). Should I cover with our solar cover? We don't have any trees in our yard and get mostly just pine needles from the neighbor's tree and bugs so far as far as organic debris goes.
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
14,043
Houston, Texas
If you have the TF 100 or Taylor k2006 kit use the FAS/DPD test for FC. If you only have the OTO (yellow) chlorine test then you are going to estimate FC based on color intensity. Darker than the test scale would be 5+
You are correct that the test result for the chlorine tests are logged as FC. If you do a combined chlorine test is will be logged as CC. I'm not sure what you mean by FC and CYA balancing themselves out, but until your SWG is up and running 40ppm of CYA is fine. The the SWG is hooked up raise the CYA to 60. I don't think the solar cover will offer much protection from storm debris and it may blow off in windy conditions. Have some extra chlorine on hand to boost the pool back up after the storm passes and vacuum out any leaf debris.
 
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BowserWowser

Well-known member
Feb 28, 2021
100
Virginia Beach, VA
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
If you have the TF 100 or Taylor k2006 kit use the FAS/DPD test for FC. If you only have the OTO (yellow) chlorine test then you are going to estimate FC based on color intensity. Darker than the test scale would be 5+
You are correct that the test result for the chlorine tests are logged as FC. If you do a combined chlorine test is will be logged as CC. I'm not sure what you mean by FC and CYA balancing themselves out, but until your SWG is up and running 40ppm of CYA is fine. The the SWG is hooked up raise the CYA to 60. I don't think the solar cover will offer much protection from storm debris and it may blow off in windy conditions. Have some extra chlorine on hand to boost the pool back up after the storm passes and vacuum out any leaf debris.
I just had to go research because I have the TF 100, but I don't see any mention in the test kit instructions of FAS or DPD...I wish terms would be used consistently. I searched DPD on TFP, though, so I know what that is now...if that's the test I should do for the FC, what is the yellow Cl test for?

For balancing itself, I just meant since my CYA is low, I assumed I'd lose chlorine more quickly, so I wasn't too worried about the high chlorine. But I could be completely wrong about that 🤷‍♀️
 

Newdude

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
11,175
NY
.if that's the test I should do for the FC, what is the yellow Cl test for?
Spot checks in between times that really don’t need exact #s. If you tested with ‘the powder’ (as I like to call it) yesterday and had FC to spare, let’s use a 10 for this example, Then you could use ‘the block test’ tomorrow just to verify it’s still really really yellow. Whether it remained a 10 or dropped to 8 or 9 is good enough for that moment. You’re still covered until tomorrow.

Whatever you are running now I would add 4 ppm to your normal target for the storm. (Half gallon for you ?). $2 insurance and if you don’t loose it today, $1.25 of it will still be there tomorrow making even more of a no-brainer.
 
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Newdude

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TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
11,175
NY
Ooooooooh !!!! And mix. Don’t let the rain water sit for hours and hours if you’re getting pounded with rain. Run the pump every 2 or 3 hours to keep the FC consistent. If you don’t want to go get wet mid storm, Just run the low speed throughout.
 
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BowserWowser

Well-known member
Feb 28, 2021
100
Virginia Beach, VA
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Ooooooooh !!!! And mix. Don’t let the rain water sit for hours and hours if you’re getting pounded with rain. Run the pump every 2 or 3 hours to keep the FC consistent. If you don’t want to go get wet mid storm, Just run the low speed throughout.
So, I've been keeping my pump on high constantly since I didn't have any chlorine in it yet (until late yesterday). Other than my electric bill, could that cause any issues? It's still running now, but the storm arrived earlier than expected, and it just started POURING out a few minutes ago!
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
14,043
Houston, Texas
The FAS/DPD chlorine test is the one that uses the powder and drops. The OTO test is not as precise, so as Newdude said, it is for those times when you don't need exact numbers, like over the winter if you don't close your pool.

This is the FAS/DPD test for FC
680F1C74-7307-4178-80B1-6EF913931411.jpeg

This second photo shows the R-003 reagent that is used to test for CC after you test for FC with the FAS/DPD test.
79DC48D0-E42D-4F26-BD82-AF2CFEBF6D9E.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Newdude

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
11,175
NY
So, I've been keeping my pump on high constantly since I didn't have any chlorine in it yet (until late yesterday). Other than my electric bill, could that cause any issues?
Your PH could rise with the extra aeration of the flow but that’s about it.

It will take 10 extra minutes to fully mix on low as opposed to high. Your choice if you want to run out there and turn it on for 10 mins or 20 mins. In the case of a prolonged storm like this one, or 3 days of rain with an un-named storm next week, I’d be too lazy to want to get wet to turn it off and just let it fly on low.
 
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BowserWowser

Well-known member
Feb 28, 2021
100
Virginia Beach, VA
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Your PH could rise with the extra aeration of the flow but that’s about it.

It will take 10 extra minutes to fully mix on low as opposed to high. Your choice if you want to run out there and turn it on for 10 mins or 20 mins. In the case of a prolonged storm like this one, or 3 days of rain with an un-named storm next week, I’d be too lazy to want to get wet to turn it off and just let it fly on low.
PH was low anyway, so all good!
I'm less worried about getting wet and more worried about falling on my butt in all the mud around the pool, so...letting it fly :D
 
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Newdude

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TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
11,175
NY
*shameless plug for 24/7 operation.

if a storm came whether or not we had any warning, it didn’t matter. I was mixing and producing FC at the top end of the scale either way.

No getting wet. No slipping /falling while racing to minimize getting wet. No. Cares. At. All.

*check it tomorrow and chuckle that its perfect*.

*goes back to not caring*.

lalalalalalalala
 
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