Hi all. Our polaris motor died about a week ago. We ordered and installed a new motor and seal kit. Everything sounds fine, but the polaris isn't moving. When we detach the hose from the wall, it doesn't feel like there is any suction going on either. Any suggestions? Very frustrated.
Polaris PB4-60 (old model) not working - replaced motor and seals
- Thread starter swimming3
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,229
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
The Polaris pump should give a strong stream of water out the cleaner port in the wall, not suction.
Post pics of your equipment pad and pumps.
The Polaris pump should give a strong stream of water out the cleaner port in the wall, not suction.
Post pics of your equipment pad and pumps.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,229
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
In the pictures you attached it looks like the water flow is shut off to the return pipe that has the connection to the booster pump feed.
Please create your signature with details of your pool and equipment so we understand what you have.
Please create your signature with details of your pool and equipment so we understand what you have.
That's what I thought but it's always been that way. And when that valve is turned the opposite way, the spa drains into the pool. Also, I believe we tried it that way, and it wouldn't prime still. I guess we can try again.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,229
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If your spa drains you are turning your suction valve. The booster pump feed is connected to your return valve. See the pic below.
Pipes A & B go to your pool and spa returns. You have to figure out which is which. The same with pipes 1 & 2 for your pool and spa suction. When you figure them out label them with a Sharpie or waterproof labels.
Thank you for marking this up! I greatly appreciate that. To make sure I understand, are you suggesting that the problem could be the a/b valve in the wrong direction? or potentially blocked?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,229
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If my assumptions are correct the booster pump is fed by the B pipe and that is OFF in the picture.
Hi Allen, thank you again for all of your help. That worked per your assumptions. Practically it made sense to me, but I can't understand why the Polaris has been functioning all this time with the valve turned off??? Really I don't get it.
Still trying to understand the spa draining when the suction is open to spa.
I don't have a check valve in that piping arrangement. We had a pool guy out a while ago, and he said the two white valves (pic below) in the spa were check valves. But he replaced one and the spa still drained. The picture is representative of the final level when it drains. Do you have thoughts on this? Is it that I don't have a check valve in the back piping or a valve bad in the hot tub? something else?
It was my understanding after a bit of reading that the suction should not be all the way off on either side. Or is that not true in my case since I have an elevated spa?
Thank you again for all of your help!
Still trying to understand the spa draining when the suction is open to spa.
I don't have a check valve in that piping arrangement. We had a pool guy out a while ago, and he said the two white valves (pic below) in the spa were check valves. But he replaced one and the spa still drained. The picture is representative of the final level when it drains. Do you have thoughts on this? Is it that I don't have a check valve in the back piping or a valve bad in the hot tub? something else?
It was my understanding after a bit of reading that the suction should not be all the way off on either side. Or is that not true in my case since I have an elevated spa?
Thank you again for all of your help!
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,229
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The two white things in the spa are not check valves. You don't have a check valve in your spa return line to prevent water backflowing from the spa to your pool when the return valve is open to both.
People who have automation can keep the spa return closed with no water flowing through their spa and spillover and then once or twice a day running their spillover to refresh their spa water. You cannot do that and you need to maintain chlorinated water in your spa. To do that you need to position your return valve so 90% of the water returns to the pool and 10% returns to the spa. Your spa spillover will run continuously which leads to pH rising due to the aeration it creates. That is the best you can do with what you have.
Pipe A is the spa return. It is cut close to the ground and their is no room between the pipe and the valve to put a check valve in. It will take a bit of PVC work that effects your return valve and inline chlorinator to redo the piping in that area to fit in a check valve.
So set your return valve to allow as little water as possible through A and most through B with a trickle of the spa spillover.
On your suction valve 1 is your spa suction and 2 is your pool suction. In POOL mode you should have all your suction from the pool.
People who have automation can keep the spa return closed with no water flowing through their spa and spillover and then once or twice a day running their spillover to refresh their spa water. You cannot do that and you need to maintain chlorinated water in your spa. To do that you need to position your return valve so 90% of the water returns to the pool and 10% returns to the spa. Your spa spillover will run continuously which leads to pH rising due to the aeration it creates. That is the best you can do with what you have.
Pipe A is the spa return. It is cut close to the ground and their is no room between the pipe and the valve to put a check valve in. It will take a bit of PVC work that effects your return valve and inline chlorinator to redo the piping in that area to fit in a check valve.
So set your return valve to allow as little water as possible through A and most through B with a trickle of the spa spillover.
On your suction valve 1 is your spa suction and 2 is your pool suction. In POOL mode you should have all your suction from the pool.
Understood. So the problem we are having is: if the valve is open to B at all, the water in the spa falls as soon as the pump turns off for the day. Not sure how to rectify that. As a side note, the Polaris is now running with the pool return (Pipe B) completely shut off again. I'm so confused!!
I didn't think about aeration and the PH. It makes sense now... I'm always having to adjust the PH. It's a pain.
I didn't think about aeration and the PH. It makes sense now... I'm always having to adjust the PH. It's a pain.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,229
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
While the return valve looks shut to pipe B I think the booster pump suction is powerful enough to draw water around the valve seal. Diverter valves do not seal that well.
When you replaced your booster pump that underground pipe lost its prime of water and got air in it. When you then started the booster pump it ran dry with air in the pipe. You then opened Pipe B and filled it with water. With water in the booster pump feed line it can suck water through the closed valve.
If you open up the diverter you may find the valve deformed from the suction and water.
Why are you running the Polaris while the return valve is open to the spa?
When you replaced your booster pump that underground pipe lost its prime of water and got air in it. When you then started the booster pump it ran dry with air in the pipe. You then opened Pipe B and filled it with water. With water in the booster pump feed line it can suck water through the closed valve.
If you open up the diverter you may find the valve deformed from the suction and water.
Why are you running the Polaris while the return valve is open to the spa?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,229
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
To prevent your spa from draining with the pump off you either need to get a check valve installed between pipe A and the valve, or you need to keep pipe A closed when the pump is off.
Yeah, that's what my dad said (re: air in the pipes).
The Polaris is set to run 2 hours per day every day. We have a ton of leaves that fall in the pool on a consistent basis so it needs to run (and we can't be switching this manually every day). i.e. I would have to switch that diverter manually every day since the spa drains into the pool if any of the return is open to the pool.
Attached is updated photo. We still aren't sure when the pool floor drain suctions. Does not appear to when the skimmer is suctioning. We did find a check valve (see pic) but it doesn't appear to be positioned in the piping to stop backflow from spa to pool.
The Polaris is set to run 2 hours per day every day. We have a ton of leaves that fall in the pool on a consistent basis so it needs to run (and we can't be switching this manually every day). i.e. I would have to switch that diverter manually every day since the spa drains into the pool if any of the return is open to the pool.
Attached is updated photo. We still aren't sure when the pool floor drain suctions. Does not appear to when the skimmer is suctioning. We did find a check valve (see pic) but it doesn't appear to be positioned in the piping to stop backflow from spa to pool.
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,229
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That check valve is required between a heater and a tab chlorinator to prevent acidic water from the chlorinator back flowing into the heater and damaging it.
