Plumbing Leak

Craig1225

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Apr 12, 2015
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Mooresville/NC
Good morning and thanks in advance! Discovered a drip this morning when I went out to check the pool equipment. There’s a crack in the connector and am hoping this is a somewhat simple fix. Thank you!557B5E28-F0C9-46CD-AB76-EC72CCFA9D7A.jpegFB667A0E-2F54-4D75-93B5-CE64567638AA.jpeg
 
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Texas Splash

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Jun 22, 2014
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I would recommend posting a couple more pics of the area, but further back so we can see everything and the plumbing on the pad. Unfortunately, that fitting will need to be replaced. It appears to be on the pressure side exiting the filter just before that T-fitting with the spigot. That fitting also appears to be glued into that T-fitting, so a little re-plumbing may be required to get it all back to original. Not really difficult, just requires a bit of planning for the right fittings, etc. More pics might help with advice though.
 
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Craig1225

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Apr 12, 2015
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Mooresville/NC
I would recommend posting a couple more pics of the area, but further back so we can see everything and the plumbing on the pad. Unfortunately, that fitting will need to be replaced. It appears to be on the pressure side exiting the filter just before that T-fitting with the spigot. That fitting also appears to be glued into that T-fitting, so a little re-plumbing may be required to get it all back to original. Not really difficult, just requires a bit of planning for the right fittings, etc. More pics might help with advice though.
Thank you very much!F1C71133-EC55-4F96-BB77-A6346AC55BDE.jpeg7850F3DA-E1A4-4341-BE46-2B7D00417C1C.jpeg
 

Newdude

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When was the last time you can verify it wasn't cracked ? That's a proverbial tough nut to crack and pool pressure wouldn't get high enough under most circumstances. If I had to take a WAG I'd go with ice as the cause. (Which may have weakened it and finally broke through).

Has any work been done recently like winterizing?
 

Texas Splash

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The shame in it all is how it was installed where little consideration was given to potential work later, much like trying to remove spark plugs from some of today's cars. :brickwall: In your case, the filter bulkhead fitting was screwed into the filter first, then glued into the T-fitting. On the other end, the pump outlet elbow was screwed into the pump first, then also glued into the T-fitting. You can't remove one or the other without cutting something.

While the spigot is convenient to have for us cartridge owners, if you don't use it much one option might be to cut it out and replace it with a union so that you can pull things apart easily in the future. You'll need a new filter bulkhead fitting, a new pump outlet adapter/elbow, and a union. Attach a new filter housing bulkhead fitting, then attached a new pump outlet adapter/elbow. Then in the middle you can connect those to each other via a union adapter. I'm sure there other ways to make the repair connections, but that's just one way to give you something to consider.
 

Texas Splash

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I just realized something. On that Jandy filter adapter you have two pieces. You have the one side screwed into the filter housing (bulkhead fitting), then the other end (the broken half union nut) connected to the T-fitting. They sell replacement bulkhead and half union nut connections as noted in the link below. The trick is to connect a new half union nut the T-fitting since the old one is glued in. Sometimes you can find a slip-on (glue) adapter to accommodate odd scenarios, but in other times it's just as easy to cut it out and start over as I explained above. Others may have other thoughts though.

 
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Craig1225

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Apr 12, 2015
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Mooresville/NC
I just realized something. On that Jandy filter adapter you have two pieces. You have the one side screwed into the filter housing (bulkhead fitting), then the other end (the broken half union nut) connected to the T-fitting. They sell replacement bulkhead and half union nut connections as noted in the link below. The trick is to connect a new half union nut the T-fitting since the old one is glued in. Sometimes you can find a slip-on (glue) adapter to accommodate odd scenarios, but in other times it's just as easy to cut it out and start over as I explained above. Others may have other thoughts though.

Thank you so much!
 

Jimrahbe

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Craig,

The right way to fix it is to replace the union.

That said, I have a rent house pool that uses similar unions on a salt cell. It was broken just like yours. I epoxied the crack as a temporary fix and ordered the replacement unions. That was about 3 years ago, and I still have the new unions in a box... :mrgreen:

Obviously, you have to make sure you just epoxy the crack and don't epoxy the union to the pipe.

Something to try anyway..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Craig1225

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Apr 12, 2015
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Mooresville/NC
Craig,

The right way to fix it is to replace the union.

That said, I have a rent house pool that uses similar unions on a salt cell. It was broken just like yours. I epoxied the crack as a temporary fix and ordered the replacement unions. That was about 3 years ago, and I still have the new unions in a box... :mrgreen:

Obviously, you have to make sure you just epoxy the crack and don't epoxy the union to the pipe.

Something to try anyway..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thank you Jim and thanks all - very much appreciated!
 

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flynwill

Well-known member
Sep 18, 2021
248
Los Angeles, CA
I would probably just plan to replace the whole section between the pump and the filter... You will need the sweep and the two 1/2 Unions (I think the pump side is probably the same part as the filter side, but you will want to check that.) You'll also either need a new T if you want to keep the faucet in it's current location, or the faucet can be plumbed into the plugged port on that style of sweep.
 
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Craig1225

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Apr 12, 2015
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Mooresville/NC
I would probably just plan to replace the whole section between the pump and the filter... You will need the sweep and the two 1/2 Unions (I think the pump side is probably the same part as the filter side, but you will want to check that.) You'll also either need a new T if you want to keep the faucet in it's current location, or the faucet can be plumbed into the plugged port on that style of sweep.
Thank you!
 

Bperry

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Aug 20, 2020
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Would be a great time to get rid of that ABS DWV sweep as well. Stick to pressure rated PVC, the non-sweep may even let you keep a tee in there or a union like suggested.
 
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flynwill

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Sep 18, 2021
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Los Angeles, CA
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Bperry

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I think that Craig's sweep is the original Jandy part:
It certainly looks identical to my own installation (and the sweep on my pump has "Jandy" and the part number)
In any case I'd recommend using the Jandy part when rebuilding it.
You may be right. It has deeper sockets than DWV. That short run from pump to filter has no leeway on cutting the fittings to the right size. Adding in a loop might allow a little wiggle room for lining up both ends of the fittings, especially if that’s why the one side cracked. Don’t know for sure, but I could mess that one up 3 times before getting it just right…🤣
 
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Craig1225

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Apr 12, 2015
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Mooresville/NC
You may be right. It has deeper sockets than DWV. That short run from pump to filter has no leeway on cutting the fittings to the right size. Adding in a loop might allow a little wiggle room for lining up both ends of the fittings, especially if that’s why the one side cracked. Don’t know for sure, but I could mess that one up 3 times before getting it just right…🤣
Thanks again to everyone for all the assistance!
 
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