Please tell me I didn't just turn my pool into the Dead Sea II

schwimmen

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Bronze Supporter
Jan 30, 2017
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Houston TX
I tested the water yesterday. The CYA was low, and the chlorine had dropped from 4 to 1.5 overnight. Today the chlorine was undetectable. The SWG said the salt was low, so I went to the pool store to get salt. I didn't realize there was a salt test, so I didn't have a concentration for him. I told him the chlorine values, and he told me I needed five and a half bags of salt. I added three before deciding to check this site.

From what I'm reading, it would be unusual to need to add salt after four months? This is the first time we've dealt with salt, so I don't know what's normal and what's not. I've shut off all the equipment b/c I'm scared to damage it. Advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Problems? :hammer: We can help. First let's slow down and figure out what all of your levels are. Can youpost a full set of test results with your TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test it. As for the salt, do you have your own Taylor K-1766 or at least some Salt Test Strips - Aqua Chek? That would step one so we're not guessing.
 
S,

I doubt you will be finding any scrolls anytime soon... :shark:

Assuming your pool is about 12K, then three bags will increase your salt level by about 1200 ppm... Assuming you had 3200 to start your salt level is now about 4400..

Worst case the pool will taste a little salty so you might want to drain a little water, but nothing is going to be ruined.

The lesson to learn here is to know ahead of time what is going to happen BEFORE you add anything to your pool. This is why it is so important to be able to run the tests yourself rather than wait for some moron at a pool store to tell you to do something stupid.. :)

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Here are the levels from yesterday (Monday):
pH 7.3 (our PebbleSheen installer has us keeping pH low to see if it helps with a scaling issue)
FC 1.0
CC 0.5
TC 1.5
TA 60
CH 300
CYA ~35
Temp 80

When checking pH and chlorine on Sunday, the chlorine was in the 4-5 range, so it was a pretty significant drop. When I tested today, the chlorine was undetectable.

I don't have a salt test, but I should be able to have the Taylor K1766 delivered by tomorrow.

I'm a bit worried about the equipment with high salt. We have a heat pump and Fastlane with a sacrificial anode (that is well on its way to being sacrificed) attached. It's all off at the moment.
 
S,

Damage, for any reason, takes time... I would be much more concerned about having zero chlorine than an elevated salt level. If this were my pool it would be back running..

I suggest that you use Liquid Chlorine to get your FC up to 4 or 5 ppm...

What ppm do you normally try to run your FC..?

Your CSI level is the indicator that keeps you from having scale. I would think that a pH at 7.3 would be worse not better... CSI should be between -.3 and +.3 with a little negative being best. With your pH at 7.3, I show your CSI to be about -.67.. With a pH of 7.8 (what almost all saltwater pool like) your CSI is about -.19... right about what you want..

Your CYA is also too low as it should be 60 to 80...

Once you get your K-1766 test kit, I'd see what the actual salt level is, and if over 4K, I would drain a little water and get it down to 3500 or so.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Thanks, Jim!

I'll add liquid chlorine, turn the equipment back on, and test the salt level tomorrow when the kit is delivered. Would you go with bleach or is there a better option? Need to check ppm...

I added two CYA pods yesterday after testing the water, so that should have raised it some. Will recheck.

I've been worried about the CSI being too low. Keeping the pH lower does not seem to have helped at all (I think it's worse), so I think I'll allow it to rise back to 7.6 - 7.8 for now. The scale (at least they think that's what it is) seemed to happen really quickly - within the start up period. The installers said they'd seen a lot of it lately and said they would do an acid wash this spring if it didn't get better with the lower pH and Jack's Magic Magenta. Frustrating to deal with the surface issue so early on.
 
S,

If this is a new pool and the PB is in charge of the chemicals, I would do whatever he is telling you, just so he can't blame you for anything...

Tell us more about your "scale".. Is it everywhere or just on the waterfall or ??? How old is the pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
It’s a new pool that was filled in late Nov/early Dec. We took over water chem in Jan, but there was already an issue. It was most noticeable as hazy areas near corners and where wall meets floor but is really all over now.

The PB is done. The sub who did the PSheen would handle acid wash. They’re a well-respected sub here.
 
Okay, it took 25 drops to turn the solution brick red with the K-1766 salt kit.

The pH is at 7.4 and the chlorine level is between 3 and 4. (Added a bottle of 6% bleach last night and have been running SWG for a couple of hours this morning.) The Sanitizer Output setting on the IC40 is set at 6%/60%.
 
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25 drops X 200 ppm means your salt is at 5,000 ppm (which is high according to the manual). The manual for the IC40 that your signature indicates that you have states that 3600 ppm is "Ideal", and the range is 3600 - 4500. The green light next to "Good" under "Salt Level" on your IC40 will likely be flashing, which indicates that it's reading over 4500 ppm.
 

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S,

Do you not have ScreenLogic??? If not you should, as it makes using and programming the EasyTouch about 10 x easier and fun...

Here is how I check the salt level of the IC40...

full


Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Ooh, Screenlogic looks lovely, but we don't currently have it. Might want to put that on the wishlist with the Fastlane app.

Thanks, Marty! So according to the unit, it's at 3750, which seems really good. Surprising that it's so different that salt test results (used mixer for test to make sure it was getting adequately stirred). But comforting.
 
Ooh, Screenlogic looks lovely, but we don't currently have it. Might want to put that on the wishlist with the Fastlane app.

Thanks, Marty! So according to the unit, it's at 3750, which seems really good. Surprising that it's so different that salt test results (used mixer for test to make sure it was getting adequately stirred). But comforting.
Hi Schwim. I am certainly not trying to highjack your thread but I have developed almost the exact same issue with salt and received very similar responses (including my lack of automation). We have similar setups and I am wondering if you have taken action or just let time run the course. We are slated for rain tomorrow evening and we are considering dropping the pool level and letting mother nature refill it. Any thoughts would be appreciated from you or one of the awesome pool experts here. Thanks.
 
Hi Schwim. I am certainly not trying to highjack your thread but I have developed almost the exact same issue with salt and received very similar responses (including my lack of automation). We have similar setups and I am wondering if you have taken action or just let time run the course. We are slated for rain tomorrow evening and we are considering dropping the pool level and letting mother nature refill it. Any thoughts would be appreciated from you or one of the awesome pool experts here. Thanks.

So sorry, Mrs. Biggs. I only just saw this.

We have not removed or added any water to the pool (other than minimal rain). Though the test reading was high, the reading on our Intellichlor unit has been within reasonable limits. I have ordered additional sacrificial anodes for our Fastlane and am going to be fairly vigilant about making sure those are replaced, but otherwise, no changes.
 

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