Please help. Haven't opened pool in 3 1/2 years. Never had a pool! Severe help needed

xyz

Gold Supporter
Sep 8, 2016
641
Escondido/CA
the O in OCLT is Overnight. What was your reading after the sun went down? If that was also 17, you have passed. If it was not, wiggle room doesn't apply because you didn't run the test, i.e., you don't know. If you are saying it was 19 after the sun went down, then no, you didn't pass.

How is it looking? Got more pictures?
 

Flimflam22

Well-known member
May 17, 2017
125
New york
it was 19 last night. i turned the pump off and got to the test this morning a little later than i wanted to know sure if the sunlight and lack of pump going affected the number. this morning it was 17 and CC 0
 

drharris

Well-known member
Jun 29, 2016
275
Walhalla, SC
Point of OCLT is to ensure all FC loss is due to sunlight, not organics. So you need to add final adjustment of bleach (to maintain SLAM level) at sunset, test again after the sun has gone down (9pm or so), and then test again before the sun has really come up (7am or so). If there's no FC drop during the hours of no sun, then you know no algae is growing. If you measure an hour before sunset, and an hour after sunrise, you don't know if the loss is due to sun or algae.
 

Pool Amateur

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 19, 2015
618
Central, NJ
Technically, you failed because it was a 2 pt drop not one or less. I would keep slam up for today do it again, just get up before sun up test again. I personally pass the OCLT 2x before I stop SLAM just in case I made an error in my favor. If you really wanted to swim today could let it drop to 15, then safe to swim. But if swimming not a big deal keep it at or above 16 for the day and be sure. Bit of a pain to go through this when the real swimming weather gets here.

And if it were my luck it would come 4th of July.
 

Swampwoman

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 27, 2012
3,835
Grand Rapids, MI
Can you post a pic? Is it crystal clear?
If so, margaritas are in order. Then a swim. Then a ponder if you have staining left on the surface. But first a breather. And a swim. And a margarita ;)

Once you're sure a slam is over, retest all parameters when FC has drifted below slam level and balance Per pool school care guide, always maintaining the non-slam ratios in [fc/cya][/FC/cya] and using PoolMath for dosing/balancing calculations.
 

Flimflam22

Well-known member
May 17, 2017
125
New york
I will def post when I can I ran out for the day but yes crystal clear! Just want to thank you all so much who made this daunting task manageable! I would have wasted easily close to a grand on pool services so thank you so much for everything! Once you start working from slam what kind of chemicals do you use? Have you always used bleach? Or something else for chlorine

- - - Updated - - -



- - - Updated - - -

Had the mrs take a pic. Also any tips on getting those ugly stains off the bottom and sides? (Also that yellow up top is some sand she accidentally kicked it)
 

Swampwoman

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 27, 2012
3,835
Grand Rapids, MI
That will depend on what the stains are...its hard to tell from pic.

There are a few tests to perform. If you ave a puck, test tat in a sock on a stain for a few minutes. If it lightens, its organic stains and may lighten with FC and sun over time.

If its iron (doesn't look like it to me), some crushed up vitamin c in a sock should lighten a test area.

If its copper (blacker areas could be) then a dry acid test in a sock would lighten it.

Alternately, you could purchase Jacks Stain Test kit to determine the best stain removal approach.

My pool isn't plaster so I'm not deeply experienced with this, but I will link you to a tool I've witness, via thread, others have used to successfully do an "underwater acid wash" on a plaster pool.

Don't rush in deciding the plan...you've got to make sure that messing around with the stains doesn't end you back up in slam territory, because if the stains are metal, having to slam again can undo the recess.

So here's the tool to look at and read reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Purity-Pool-UAW-Underwater-Acid/dp/B00C7UGLFY

And here's another TFP stain treatment if metals (but works best on iron, not copper) to read up on. I would wait at least a week or so because th AA will eat your chlorine and after years closed we want to be certain nothing can start growing again.

Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains

While you study up on stains, test them, etc., keep your water balanced and your FC to the TFP ratio...take a cruise through pool school again as a refresher.

Post us a compete set of test numbers I the next while, eg TA, CH, CYA etc.
 

Pool Amateur

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 19, 2015
618
Central, NJ
Once you start working from slam what kind of chemicals do you use? Have you always used bleach? Or something else for chlorine

We basically use liquid chlorine (bleach), can be bought several different ways and in different concentrations. It needs to be added to pool everyday and at fairly precise doses. Yes it does take some work so their are some automation systems to decrease work load but would suggest researching thoroughly before jumping in and buying one as there are pros and cons to each. The other chemicals are listed in pool math to adjust the other areas of your pool and since you have plaster you need to keep water balanced so as to not permanently damage plaster. It is real expensive to re plaster pool. All chemicals can be purchased inexpensively, if you do not know where search the forum, there are great suggestions, even a thread for cheapest chlorine prices.

Pool looking good, enjoy that margarita.
 

Flimflam22

Well-known member
May 17, 2017
125
New york
Well I seemed to have run into a new problem. The water level has def dropped a bit, not a lot but enough for me to realize. What could that be
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support

Pool Amateur

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 19, 2015
618
Central, NJ
Over a week of dry weather mine will drop because of evaporation, but probably not the answer as it has been wet and raining recently. Another common easy to remedy problem can be leaking from waste port, but I think we already covered that before, but check put end of backwash hose in bucket or under waste port. These are 2 easy to fix problems.

Do enjoy the margarita this weekend though.
 

Flimflam22

Well-known member
May 17, 2017
125
New york
How long does it usually take for all the fc to be removed from a pool? I did my test on the 20th I believe and I checked it today and fc was at 0. I haven't put any thing into the pool but have had the filter running all day and off at night.
 

Swampwoman

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 27, 2012
3,835
Grand Rapids, MI
I've been tied up with guests for the last few days, so maybe im missing something, but WHY is FC 0? Are you dropping it deliberately for a treatment?

If not, you need to test and dose pool daily to maintain FC to the [fc/cya][/FC/cya] chart - please read it and the other routine maintenance info in Pool School.

Otherwise you'll end up having to slam all over again.
 

Flimflam22

Well-known member
May 17, 2017
125
New york
I thought fc and all other Chem levels were tested weekly but i will start testing fc daily. I know some of you said liquid chlorine is what you use but considering that's an every day ordeal I might have to use a different method. I found a chlorine feeder in my she'd not sure if those work well. Any other suggestions for chlorine?

I have been looking up videos on the chlorine feeder how i would need to cut some pipe to attach it or cut a hole in and run a tube for the in and out sides. I saw on here a few threads about the floating dispensers, is everyone here totally against that method?
 

Pool Amateur

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 19, 2015
618
Central, NJ
There are several ways to add chlorine to pool, but if the "chlorine feeder" you are talking about is for solid pucks or tablets, you need to realize that along with the chlorine they put in your pool they are also adding CYA. You want your CYA to be fairly constant and as you have seen with the FC/CYA Chart, the amount of FC is dependent on the amount CYA. The only practical way to get rid of CYA is water removal, there is a product out there that claims to decrease CYA but you have to have FC=0 to use it which is a great way to turn the pool into a swamp (and I am not sure that it will bring CYA down). To deliver chlorine to the pool on a fairly automated way you can use a Steiner pump or a SWG. Both are expensive and you should thoroughly research and investigate before making investment. Testing is still necessary and once you get to understand what your pool takes you dose at a predetermined level then check a few times a week to adjust, but I do not recommend this in your 1st year. I am in my 3rd year and I test pretty much everyday, sometimes 2x/day because I am still learning what the pool does. There are many variables that fluctuate FC consumption. When I go on vacation I use my chlorinator with the 3" pucks and drain/adjust when I get home. 9 pucks raises my CYA 10 ppm. The last 2 years I kept CYA at 30 and then when on vacation it would go to 40 which is very easy to manage just adjust FC to new level. This year I set my CYA to 50 (after SLAM) so when I come back from vacation it will be 60 which is manageable.
 

xyz

Gold Supporter
Sep 8, 2016
641
Escondido/CA
I thought fc and all other Chem levels were tested weekly but i will start testing fc daily. I know some of you said liquid chlorine is what you use but considering that's an every day ordeal I might have to use a different method. I found a chlorine feeder in my she'd not sure if those work well. Any other suggestions for chlorine?

I have been looking up videos on the chlorine feeder how i would need to cut some pipe to attach it or cut a hole in and run a tube for the in and out sides. I saw on here a few threads about the floating dispensers, is everyone here totally against that method?


short answer is yes. The TFP approach gets a pool balanced, and then ONLY adds what is needed. The trouble is, puts add CYA. So over time more and more and mor FC is needed.

Instead, you want to add only chlorine. The two popular methods are liquid chlorine, and SWGs. SWGs generate FC from the salt in the water and last for 5+ years. That's cool, but you pay for all that up front. Liquid chlorine is just a few bucks a gallon, but you have to lug it around and pour it in all the time, usually daily. The sort of middle of the road alternative is a stenner pump, where it automatically adds liquid chlorine according to a timer. You still have to fill a reservoir, but far less often.

The one one time where pucks can make sense for a little while is when your CYA is low and you want to increase it, or if you go on vacation and need FC added all day.
 

Pool Amateur

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 19, 2015
618
Central, NJ
Just an add on to above, the good news for us Flimflam is that we are in the northeast. In the winter CYA decreases much faster (there is a small consumption in summer but negligible) I think it may be why many people in the northeast manage their pool with pucks without getting algae, but anytime FC is less than the minimal level in the FC/CYA Chart, not only can it not kill algae faster than it grows, it does not kill viruses and bacteria fast enough to be safe either. After learning all this I wonder how many people get sick from unsanitary pool water that looks good. We went on vacation last year pool at hotel was a little cloudy, it took me 2 days before the heat overcame my fear of germs. Sometimes it is better to be in the dark I guess.
 

Flimflam22

Well-known member
May 17, 2017
125
New york
so pretty much my options are manually adding liquid chlorine on a daily basis or buying an expensive pump to dispense chlorine. This does not sound good
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.