It seems like there should be a more accurate method of pH than the little daily test kit. I have the TF-100 test kit, and maybe I'm using it wrong, but it seems to me to be a lot of guesswork.
pH testing
- Thread starter Oceansol
- Start date
jimbethesda
Gold Supporter
- Jul 2, 2018
- 648
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yes, I agree with you. I’m not color-blind, but got really frustrated with trying to determine the color/PH. I bought a PH meter. I spent a little more (about $90), but it came with a carrying case, storage liquid, storage cap to hold said liquid, and calibration liquid (4.0 and 7.0). I check the calibration every few weeks, but it’s always been within +/- .02.
I have a new plaster pool with SWG so I’ve been testing PH pretty regularly. The PH meter has been life-changing (ok, slight exaggeration).
I have a new plaster pool with SWG so I’ve been testing PH pretty regularly. The PH meter has been life-changing (ok, slight exaggeration).
I agree with you as well. However, PH doesn't need to be that exact. Is there that big of a difference between 7.4 and 7.8 as far as the pool is concerned. Seeing the color difference between 7.4 and 7.8 is actually not all that hard for me. I test PH a few times a week and once it is easy to see that it is above 7.8, I go ahead and dose with acid. When I do dose, I aim to lower to 7.5 from 7.8 that way if I overshoot I still have some wiggle room.
- Jun 13, 2017
- 450
- Pool Size
- 9600
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I have trouble distinguishing the pH test colors too. I took a 3x5 index card and cut it so I can simply see one of the five gradients when testing. I didn't need to test, but thought I add a photo of what it would look like if I was. This has really helped me.
EDIT: Forgot to say, I use a white background (6-8 inches) behind when doing the test. This helps me see the color much better.
EDIT: Forgot to say, I use a white background (6-8 inches) behind when doing the test. This helps me see the color much better.
Last edited:
nedbass
New member
For me, the key to easy pH readings is to have a bright white backdrop to view the color comparator against. I shine a LED flashlight on a white piece of paper, and hold the pH kit 6 inches or so above it. That makes it very obvious which of the boxes is the closest match. Some people on here have suggested that using four drops instead of five to makes it easier to read and doesn't change the result. I started doing that and it works well for me.
Yes, I think I am reasonably accurately measuring it as well, but the other tests appear to be more accurate. I don't know if there is much difference between 7.4 and 7.8 (maybe some experts here can expound on that), but since my supply water is high in CH and has a pH of 7.8, it is a constant battle to keep pH 7.5 or below. Unless I'm willing to spend $90 (thanks for the tip, jimbethesda!) (I'm not), I guess I'll try Sue's index card method!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,127
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You got me curious..... my supply water averages pH 8.2, and total alkalinity of 95, so I add weekly muriatic acid to try to keep it below at or below 7.8. I also have fairly hard water so over time the CH rises and if I don't keep pH in check I get more calcium deposits.
FYI my TA is pretty constant at 110, and I can't seem to lower it even lowering pH and aerating. Not sure if that's a problem or not.
[And sorry for my misreporting of my supply water pH!]
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