PF-50 Sand filters--anyone else still using?

saoakman

Active member
May 19, 2017
25
0
Minneapolis, MN
#1
It seems hard to find info on these old guys--found this old thread, with a link to a manual (God bless you, Jay @griffiths)
https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/72433-New-to-me-PF-50-Sand-Filter.

So I acquired a pool, and this puppy, in a real estate transaction last fall. Slowly trying to get the pool reopened. I wanted to deep clean the sand with a garden hose, per this article, as I'm sure that the previous owners hadn't touched it, but found it impossible to dislodge the top of the canister, and didn't want to press the issue. It feels like the O-ring is fused to the halves of the stainless steel, and I'm afraid to destroy it if I force it open. I'm ordering a new O-ring, just in case, and will defer the opening up ceremony until I have it in hand.

Just wondering if anyone else out there is still using this equipment, and if they have any tips or tricks to share.
 

griffths

LifeTime Supporter
May 2, 2011
133
0
Long Grove, IL
#3
I am still using mine, although it is the PF-100. As of a few years ago, i was able to find all of the internal parts to completely rebuild it. I have lots of pics of the rebuild process so if there is something in particular you have a question about, let me know and i will do my best to answer

Regards,

Jay
 

saoakman

Active member
May 19, 2017
25
0
Minneapolis, MN
#4
I am still using mine, although it is the PF-100. As of a few years ago, i was able to find all of the internal parts to completely rebuild it. I have lots of pics of the rebuild process so if there is something in particular you have a question about, let me know and i will do my best to answer

Regards,

Jay
Have you ever had the difficulty I described above in getting the top of the "kettle" off without destroying the O-ring (or something else)?
 

griffths

LifeTime Supporter
May 2, 2011
133
0
Long Grove, IL
#5
The PF-100 is a little different setup than yours. The tank doesn't split in half but has a smaller cap at the top. I did not have any trouble removing the cap on mine however you are wise to wait until you have a replacement gasket since, at least on mine, the gasket was really stretched out and didn't fit snugly back on the tank once removed so I had to have a few extra hands hold it in the groove while I put the cap back on. It took a few tries to get the correct replacement gasket but I was able to finally get the correct one and replaced the worn out one and it has been leak free for the past two years. If I hadn't been able to get it together again, I would have been without a filter for a week or two while I sorted it all out.

As this is an older filter and there isn't any telling how long replacement parts will be available, I would suggest that once you find the correct replacement, you order an extra o-ring to have a spare to go along with your replacement.

All in, I probably spent around 200.00 on a replacement 2" hi-flow multi-port valve, two new bulkheads and all new laterals which was much less than replacing the filter with a new Triton. I have to believe that stainless steel is ultimately a better shell than the newer fiberglass ones so felt it was worth the investment and so far that has proven to be correct.

Regards,

Jay
 
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saoakman

Active member
May 19, 2017
25
0
Minneapolis, MN
#6
So I got my O-ring (and a spare) and with great difficulty was able to pry the top of the kettle off to deep clean.
Here's what I found--pretty cruddy, and I'm wondering if it has sufficient sand in it. Anyone know how high the sand should be? IMG_3480 (1).JPG
Also--what is the little "mini filter" on the small black hose sticking up next to the standpipe for? Don't see it on any of the literature I've found here so far.
 
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griffths

LifeTime Supporter
May 2, 2011
133
0
Long Grove, IL
#7
The manual should have a diagram indicating the free board, or how much empty space above the sand bed. From the picture, I would guess that your filter is filled correctly as you couldn't really get much more in there without it spilling over the side with the top half removed.

Edit:

I just read the manual (who does that?) and stand corrected. The free-board for your filter is 1/4" below the rim of the lower filter shell so it would appear that you need to add quite a bit of sand.

The mini filter is part of the air bleed system and keeps sand and small debris from bypassing the filter and making it back into the pool

Edit 2:

The manual indicates your filter takes 200 pounds of sand to fill so you may want to consider just replacing all of it rather than go through the hassle/mess of deep cleaning. Since you need to purchase at least one bag of sand, you may as well purchase four and be done with it. Sand doesn't wear out but I can tell you from my experience, it took me a long time to deep clean my filter so the 10-15 dollars in sand would be a no brainer in my mind. I didn't do it because my filter (PF-100) requires 500 pounds of sand.
 
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Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 23, 2009
22,793
4
105
SouthWest Alabama
#8
Hey griffths -- I got nothing to add except Thank You so much for chiming in here. We really appreciate you taking time to help a fellow member. People like you using 'special' equipment willing to help fellow users out make this a much better place.
 

saoakman

Active member
May 19, 2017
25
0
Minneapolis, MN
#9
Added 100# sand today. The pool looked notably clearer already just from the deep irrigation I'd done last night with my first approach to the canister. Can't wait to see what we get tomorrow!