I have 4 Pentaire Globrite color LED lights in my 3.5 year old pool and all 4 LED lights have failed after filling with water. After reviewing the web and forums like this one, this seems to be a common problem and many have blamed a faulty o-ring on the front of the light. However, I also noticed that all 4 of the bad lights also had cracked casings. I saved the last 2 lights and the cracks are almost identical (see attached images). My question is, is it a bad o-ring or a cracked casing that allows water to enter the light fixture?
Pentaire Globrite LED light leak
- Thread starter malonejr
- Start date
Hi there ...welcome to TFP but sorry you're having this problem. Everyone who comes here with Globrites seems to have this same problem. When ever folks discuss their pool builds with us we always warn against these lights and refer them to the microbrites instead.
www.troublefreepool.com
Will your lights be under warranty still? Call Pentair and complain.
Maddie
Pentair Globrite Replacement
Updating here for others with this problem. My Globrite lasted 5 years before failing. Unlike some where the seal at the front fails and water gets into the electronics, mine the case actually cracked and water penetrated from the molded plastic that failed. Hopefully these pictures help...
www.troublefreepool.com
Will your lights be under warranty still? Call Pentair and complain.
Maddie
- May 3, 2014
- 58,383
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I believe the failure is the oring, that lets water in them, and them they rust and split the casing.
I put sealant on the oring area of my latest replacements. Next time I am using a different light.
I put sealant on the oring area of my latest replacements. Next time I am using a different light.
Thanks for the info.
Prior to replacing each LED light, I placed a bead of clear silicone sealant around the back of the clear lens where it meets the casing and let it dry for 24 hrs. Some also have also suggested sealing the back of the casing where the parts connect together and I decided to give that a try with my last LED light swap. Any ideas on sealing the back?
I contacted Pentair. Once they determined I was outside the warranty window, they didn't seem to care - other than trying to upsell me their new microbrite light and niche.
On the plus side, when the lights go bad, I swap them out with my son. I use it as a father-son bonding/teaching moment.
Prior to replacing each LED light, I placed a bead of clear silicone sealant around the back of the clear lens where it meets the casing and let it dry for 24 hrs. Some also have also suggested sealing the back of the casing where the parts connect together and I decided to give that a try with my last LED light swap. Any ideas on sealing the back?
I contacted Pentair. Once they determined I was outside the warranty window, they didn't seem to care - other than trying to upsell me their new microbrite light and niche.
On the plus side, when the lights go bad, I swap them out with my son. I use it as a father-son bonding/teaching moment.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,383
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You used the silicone sealant on the lights that just failed? I have not heard about sealing the other end.
If you are interested, check out Florida Sunseeker. They have some lights that can replace the Globrite. Only downside is they cannot be directly controlled by a Pentair automation. The automation can switch the colors, but the colors will not match what is shown in the automation.
If you are interested, check out Florida Sunseeker. They have some lights that can replace the Globrite. Only downside is they cannot be directly controlled by a Pentair automation. The automation can switch the colors, but the colors will not match what is shown in the automation.
Thanks for the info regarding Florida Sunseeker
Clarification - none of the original LED lights were sealed and all of them failed within 3 years. I did seal all of the replacement LED lights prior to installation and all of them are still working. However, I replaced the first failed light about 1 year ago - so it may be too early to tell if the sealant idea works. Only time will tell.
Clarification - none of the original LED lights were sealed and all of them failed within 3 years. I did seal all of the replacement LED lights prior to installation and all of them are still working. However, I replaced the first failed light about 1 year ago - so it may be too early to tell if the sealant idea works. Only time will tell.
I don't know if sealing the back end of the LED light will work, but I am willing to give it a try
This thread is disappointing. Specically disappointing of pentair to sell a product that has such a short life span. Pool repair guy came to fix a heater and I asked for a quote to replace the globrite. He said they last 3-5 years at best, but pointed out that I have condensation when looking at the light. That would suggest the water leaked inside somewhere hence the broken light. I stumbled on this post in my research and looks like a replacement would again last only a couple years assuming the sealing works.
I also looked at Florida Sunseeker as recommended, but the fact that I can't control the color natively is a deal breaker. Someone mentioned Microbrites as a Pentair alternative which I assume will allow color changes natively. Curious why folks here haven't gone down this route instead of replace again with globrites considering the short life span?
I also looked at Florida Sunseeker as recommended, but the fact that I can't control the color natively is a deal breaker. Someone mentioned Microbrites as a Pentair alternative which I assume will allow color changes natively. Curious why folks here haven't gone down this route instead of replace again with globrites considering the short life span?
I assume when you say natively you mean via EasyTouch/IntelliTouch automation? If so please Create Your Signature so we can understand your setup. If you look at this post you can see the different light sequences for each manufacturer. If you can get the correct color set on the light you can change your AUX circuit function to light which will simply turn it on and off using the last color that was set.
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I just inspected mine, same issue with splitting. Seems like this should be a class action for defective $500/each lights. Not exactly a drop in the bucket when you have 3, four year old lights. 
All 3 of my Globrite from a 2019 build have died over the past year. Last one is barely holding on. Same defective crack in the same molding spot on all three.
That being said, we are stuck due to the monopoly and the niche with these lights. I’m going to give one last shot with the Microbrites with the $20 adapter to Globrite. I decided to wast $1,200 on this setup since FL sunseeker wasn’t much cheaper price point and doesn’t have same syncing algorithms. Not sure why they or any other MFG can’t copy the on/off cycles to mimic the Pentair color changes. If FL sunseeker price point was 50% of OEM and had longer known durability, may consider them when the MicroBrites eventually meet their demise. We all know that’s the Pentair game.
The MicroBrite with Globrite Adapter
That being said, we are stuck due to the monopoly and the niche with these lights. I’m going to give one last shot with the Microbrites with the $20 adapter to Globrite. I decided to wast $1,200 on this setup since FL sunseeker wasn’t much cheaper price point and doesn’t have same syncing algorithms. Not sure why they or any other MFG can’t copy the on/off cycles to mimic the Pentair color changes. If FL sunseeker price point was 50% of OEM and had longer known durability, may consider them when the MicroBrites eventually meet their demise. We all know that’s the Pentair game.
The MicroBrite with Globrite Adapter
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Here's my video on retrofitting the GloBrite to MicroBrite. Pretty simple job and no need to drain pool.
Turbo1Ton
Gold Supporter
- Dec 26, 2019
- 1,837
- Pool Size
- 14500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Nice video! Thanks for taking time to put it together.
--Jeff
--Jeff
I've been dragging my feet on replacing my single light because of the effort to replace the entire light along with the full cord length pulled through the plumbing. Thank you for making the video that gives me a good general overview. The vacuuming of the plumbing to clear any standing water to minimize the corrosion was a good tip. Would not have thought about that.
Thanks. On my other lights, I tried reversing the vacuum to blow which was a better solution. You blow it with a seal at the end until bubbles in the pool, they put the light in while helper turns off the blower, it pushes all the dirt into the pool and leaves minimal water in conduit.
Also, I decided one new $400 light is all I want to spend. I’m going to try some stick on battery lights possibly with magnet plate mounted to old GloBrite Lens. It will give me enough light and benefits for the few times we use at night and only cost me $60 for four.
I'll try that with a garden blower. I was hesitant to try this because I was unsure how many twist and turns the fished cable would have to make in order to pull through. The added residual water was a concern and I wonder if the builder accounted for any slopes in the wire conduit that would complicated with built up water. We'll seen soon enough when my light arrives. I just hope this new intellibrite last longer than the other POS.
Do you want to sell one of your failed GloBrites. I need it for parts. Thx. Paul
I have three Globrites installed in 2019. One is beginning to fail. I pulled the light to inspect it. Water in the lense and a longitudinal casing crack just like others are reporting. Some claim the leak is from the lense seal or the cable connection causing water to get into the housing causing it to crack. Not so in my case. I drilled an 1/8 inch hole through the casing and injected air through a needle valve. I submerged the lense end in a bucket of water, no bubbles. Same with wire connection. All the bubbles came out the hairline crack in the casing.
This leads me to conclude in my case that the plastic used in the casing is suseptibe to some type of stress cracking, possibly chemically induced by the chemicals in the pool.
Sealing the lense or the cable connection may not work. I am considering wrapping the casing in fiberglass assuming I have enough clearance.
This leads me to conclude in my case that the plastic used in the casing is suseptibe to some type of stress cracking, possibly chemically induced by the chemicals in the pool.
Sealing the lense or the cable connection may not work. I am considering wrapping the casing in fiberglass assuming I have enough clearance.